It just got ugly- How ugly ?

IIRC 50% mix ratio of ethylene glycol gets you to around -38 before it freezes, a mix of 70% gets you to around -80, boiling point increases with the higher ratio mix up to and not exceeding 70% although the boiling resistance is pressure dependent and the resistance to boil is not at the same rate as resistance to freezing. In most of the US 50/50 is an acceptable mix although from a heat exchange point of view plain water sheds heat faster than any of the glycol mixes in use these days. I don't advocate a water only coolant unless it is for special applications that are drained after use and are not subjected to freezing temps.

 

There is a procedure used in welding up cracks in steel plate and castings which is to measure the width of the split or crack, drill a hole 3 to 4 times that size in diameter at each end and then weld up the crack or split with appropriate welding rod and heat range. Has been used in most all industries including nautical since welding as opposed to riveted construction matured.

Come on now. That wasn't what anyone wrote or implied in relation to the crack or split that dads 68 noted. No one here has suggested pounding brass into a crack. That argument is completely different from what we are discussing in sealing a core plug. From a mechanical hold aspect of whether a press fit plug or threaded plug would withstand excessive pressure I'm sure most all of us would agree that the threaded plug would probably stand up to greater force. I do not necessarily agree that it would make the side of an engine block stronger. In looking at the core plugs on all 8 Ford engines here at the moment, models between 1968 through 2009, all have press fit core plugs, all have substantial bosses cast into the area of the core plug to reinforce that area. For my applications they need not be "improved upon". Your driving style, mileage, and requirements may vary.

I will leave it to the forum to discuss the merits for their application and the individuals to decide what they need in their engine. I'm all for bullet proof - that is in the sense of building something robust enough to withstand forseeable abuse, misuse, or error to make the item more survivable and to provide greater longevity. That is the view I take when I build my engines for the most part when economically feasible. I will even leave it to the forum to decide if, had the OP had the tapped/screw in core plugs, if instead of a pull and inspect, install new plugs as required, re-install engine and prepare it with a correct coolant mix, that he might indeed be looking at getting an engine block repaired or replaced.

This really is turning into a "how many angels can dance on the head of a pin?" type of question. I've read many descriptions of why the thread in plugs are merited and were installed in certain applications, many of which describe reasons that haven't even surfaced here.

In any event, allovaagain, I do hope that your engine turns out to be okay and that this is a very minor speed bump in getting your ride streetable.

 

That technique is almost the way you fix the receiver on a salvageable firearm - the only differences are that the gunsmith uses hardened plug screws and welds over the entire repair area, then re-hardens the steel to the original rockwell harness.

 

American Gastroenterological Association

 

American Galvanizers Association

 

Well this thread dose have a lot of GAS....

 

Good news! Thanks for the update.

 

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