Not a screaming deal,but about market if in really good condition.As said,you will still need more pieces to work on your 289.Painless harness is around $500,but then again you need to buy eec,dist, and sensors.Best to buy complete donor 5.0HO with all the goodies.T5/AOD a plus.Look for Lincoln MK7 89-92,both my rancheros have this drive line in them.They are out there,all about timing.. https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/1966-ford-ranchero/6775237627.html Heres a good read,check out the links at the bottom! http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/Engine.htm
Assuming you put in the later (sefi) cam, a running motor will do some tests that will fail if you don't match the firing order of a matching cam. For example, killing a cylinder in a running motor and then checking that the failure was noticed on the proper bank -- that won't work on the old-style firing order. This has more to do with where the exhaust sensors are located -- they must match the firing order for the self-testing to work. Either order will work fine in a carbed engine, and most people would be happy with that. Or you could try to make the older-type of bank-fired computer to work -- which will get you into finding injectors that match.
Sounds like I need to visit a few junk yards, if I decide to go this route. I saw that listing for the '66 when I first was shopping for a 'chero. My wife would have killed me if I bought something that didn't drive, though. If I go 5.0HO, I would most likely want it with an AOD. Your link is a very good read. I haven't gotten to any of the links in it yet; some homework for the weekend. I did some reading on SEFI the other day, and it definitely sounds like you really want to get everything as a package. People talked about the different camshafts, then changing the dizzy firing order and wires to the injectors to match the camshaft. But this means that you're reading one O2 sensor when firing on the opposite bank (sometimes), so you're not feeding the right info into the computer. Others talked about tying the O2 sensors together, so that no matter which bank is firing, you get a "blend" of sensor feedback. Others talked about using the earlier injector design, then it matters less which bank is firing. Then it gets back to throttle-body injection, MAF vs MAP, and on and on. It's definitely a dedicated path, though. It sounds like it could be fun, and keep me busy enough to stay out of bars for a looooooong time! Joseph
This might be starting to look pretty good now: Well -- compare that $1300 cost to what a stock Ford EFI unit would cost, maybe $350 or so from a pick-your-part salvage yard. There you'd get factory intel to match the DIY work. I believe it's safe to say that the best you can do is to match the exhaust gas analyzers, i.e., get it to burn a 14.7 stoich (closed-loop) most of the time. It's unlikely you can beat the factory engineers. If anybody wants it, I have a bunch of 1991-ish EFI parts for sale -- cheap. Send me an email if you want to try it again. I did that for 3 years or so, and finally gave up and settled on a carb setup on my Ranchero.
"finally gave up and settled on a carb setup on my Ranchero". Don't get me wrong burninbush, I'm a 'carb guy' for these old school cars too. I was just agreeing with one of his ideas for fuel injection. Maybe a little easier than sourcing a bunch of used parts and stitching them all together, when a leading company offers a plug 'n play for what would realistically be about the same money in the end.
yea a plug and play but is CFI ( glorified Carburetor ) the fuel still travels through the manifold as it did with the Carb so you do not get true even fuel distribution to each cylinder. It dose not control timing or self adjust and relearn it self constantly as you drive. the factory Mass Air System dose A Cfi system is not really any more efficient than a well tuned carburetor
A factory TBI or CFI would be between the carb and the port injection. But these 'quick' stand-alone systems, I would agree, are as you say.
6 hour drive a few hours work and $1500 and you can have a running 5.0 AOD and modified wiring harness out of the PYL
Probably had him thinking hard until that last part. A Pyl engine for $1500? Man you got some good smoke up in Prunetucky!
Well, to be complete, he did suggest that an AOD would be part of the deal. Which I wasn't considering making that update, but for a complete drivetrain, maybe not too bad (but I'd still have to run it by The Boss). Joseph
I think it's a great deal. Carl may be a little chubby, and smell like cabbage, but he wouldn't rip off a member here.
Well, pooh! I was re-reading the link that LSChero posted, and noticed this: "The upper intake of the 5.0 will not clear the standard bracing of a 1st generation Mustang. The aftermarket export braces will also interfere." I expect that a '64 Ranchero has no more room in the engine compartment than a '65 Mustang. So, I either go a different route for the diagonal braces (this guy made his own), or I go a different route for EFI. Or I stay with a carb. Joseph
If it were mine, I'd make new braces to fit the EFI. That's usually what I've seen on these mid-'60s restomods.