The C4 I have in my '64 is leaking out the rear seal. Can I change this without removing the tranny from the Ranchero? I assume I'll have to remove the yoke or U-joint at the end. What else will I have to do? I'll probably make some phone calls to the local tranny shops, just because it would be a lot easier to write a check than it would be to play with this in the driveway. Joseph
When you say 'rear seal,' do you refer to the yoke seal, or to the tailshaft housing seal? If you refer to the yoke seal, no, it can be done in-car, just by removing the driveshaft. You'll need to make matchmarks on the pinion yoke to the u-joint. Then carefully pry out the old seal, use a big deep socket to tap the new one in, make sure it's straight, and clean/lube the yoke's slip shaft with frest ATF and install.
Yes, I'm talking about the yoke seal. Do I disconnect the driveshaft from the rear end, then slide it off of the tranny output shaft? I'll have to pull my books out tonight, to see what I'm looking at. Also, should I put silicone around the outside of the new seal, to prevent leaks between the seal and the housing? Good to know that I can do it in the driveway, though. Joseph
No silicone the new seal will have a coating on it that looks like paint and it is a tight fit. Yes remove the driveshaft and use a clean catch pan, you will lose some fluid so keep the rear end up as much as is safe. Hardest part is removing the driveshaft, very simple task. Skip
Doesn't hurt to get some fine emery cloth and polish up the driveshaft yoke before stuffing it back in there. Also good time to check the u-joints.
Good point but also ck the fit on the yoke with the new seal, if to loose they are adjustable, I would be happy to share how. Very simple.
Take the spring off of the seal, find the joint where it connects together it will unscrew then cut off a small piece off the flat side and screw it back together put it back on the seal and test for fit by sliding it on the yoke. I've done it many times on my tractor and a couple of cars.
Are you making that up? I've never done that. But to be fair, I've never had a reason to try doing that.
Absolute truth, first time was on my tractor the seal I got was right OD but a little loose ID, it's been on there for over 10 yrs without even a seep.
The seals for cars are not made for any adjustment, but I'm willing to bet the one for the tractor was made for the fact that getting a replacement seal took a week at that time, and so an adjustable one was called for.
Anyway, the seal's easy to do. Just make sure you drive it in evenly, and make sure you get the one that has the outer extension rubber to protect the slip yoke from dirt.
I was not suggesting that he do that to his new ones are readily available, just passing on some tip's.