Does some of you have already flushed the rear end of your car, if so how did you proceed and what kind of oil did you use for a limited sleep rear end. Thanks Eric
I haven't on my Ranchero, but I did on my '67 F250. I ended up taking the rear cover off, so I could drain/clean out the old stuff completely. Also, the truck rear ends don't have a drain plug. That meant getting a new gasket, but they were pretty cheap and readily available. I refilled it with Mobil 1 75W90 Gear Oil. I have a 4:10 limited-slip on the truck (or 4.11; I can never remember which ratio Ford used). I could have gone with a heavier oil, but I rarely tow with it. That was about five years ago. So far, so good. Joseph
You are embarking down a messy road. you will have to pull the axles and drop the third member For your FORD TRAC LOC use a quality 80-90 gear oil and 4OZ of FORD friction modifier https://www.amazon.com/Ford-XL-3-Fr...argid=aud-864832253277:pla-450916111858&psc=1 DO NOT USE LIMITED SLIP GEAR OIL it will fry the clutches in the Trac Loc
Maybe i didn't use the correct word, that's what i want to do, remove the oil from the rear end and fill it with some new. Yes but i think there's no other way to do, pumping the oil no ?
this what i have done on a couple old vehicle , get a 3-5 hp shop vac , reduce your vacumn hose - so a 1/2 tubing can be sent threw the pinion fill hole with you feeding the 1/2 hose by moving in & out the fill then fill as carl -5.0 Chero instructed
I have an electric oil pump at home i can use but is there enough room to slide a plastic pipe into the case threw the filling hole ?
On my 65 (Ford 8 inch very similar to 9 inch) I sneaked a plastic tube in the fill hole and down and used a cheap plastic gear oil pump (like the ones you use to fill from the bottle so you dont spill) to evacuate the rear end. Seemed to work fine as when I refilled it took all the gear oil the spec called for. Just be careful to not lose the flexible plastic tube you use.
I could never figure out why no one forced Ford to put drain plugs on those, as Toyota had, just for maintenance. But then, back then, all the car companies expected people to ditch their under-5-year-old car for a new one.
In France there's a shop called Mr Mustang, and for a long time they used to install drain plugs on Ford 9" rear end like in this video...
They still hope folks will trade in their cars after they get it paid off (and some folk think that as long as the payments don't jump up too much, they will always figure on having a car payment). Plastic door clips are a great example. Sure, they could use a metal clip, like they used to, but then it wouldn't break, and people wouldn't trade up. Interesting observation that I've made. Start looking at the latch on GM truck tailgates. No matter how new or old, there's a 50% chance the surround is missing. Sure, other manufacturers have broken surrounds, too, but not at such high percentages. If I see a missing surround, 99% of the time it's on a GM. Also, it's just on the truck tailgates. The passenger door surrounds are fine. You would think that after being in business for +/- 100 years, GM would have figured out how to make better surrounds. Or maybe they have ... Joseph
These is nothing wrong with your English and I meant no disrespect, not at all, it was just the title just hit a funny bone.
I believe @ 100K miles these cars(70's American cars) were considered "done" by the standards set back then. As a kid/teen I remember seeing brand new cars on the lot with rust already starting, not up north mind you but here in central Florida. That Ford gear oil is/was good $hit, it would go 100k plus without issue, better than that Won Ton soup they stuck in a Toyota for gear oil in that era .
Seems I remember boat engines had their oil changed by sticking a tube down the dipstick tube and sucking the oil out. Also 40 or 50 years ago some oil change shops used the same technique.
Yes, you can buy tube kits that work with Mityvac and other vacuum tools to do that. The only problem I have with not doing the whole job, is that unlike the more common style of differential housing, where you can just remove the back cover to drain and inspect thoroughly the differential unit, you have to do the work to remove it. The upside is that if you do find a problem, you only take your carrier to an axle/differential shop for repair or rebuild. And, it gives you an opportunity to slap new axle seals and bearings in. Don't forget the copper washers!
