1970 Ranchero build - first ranchero, first restoration

The adjustment is as you figured, find the positions and lock it down. Don't think you are going to get the feel of a modern switch with hard clicks and stops, but the whole assembly would benefit from a stout disassembly and cleaning with some fresh lube. 50 something year old lube, if still there, is not going to slide so good.

 

Sorry I didn't see this page sooner. This link should take you to a public Facebook page where I've photographically documented the restoration of mine. I've taken apart three of these things, down to the last nut and bolt.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10200998333153536&type=3

 

Thanks everyone for helping me track down these issues. I had another quick question regarding the ignition. I still cannot get the car to start after fixing the ignition switch.

I took the ignition switch completely apart, cleaned the internal contacts and glued it back together with a little JB Weld. It had started to split open, so that is why it originally failed. The switch now seems to be fixed and works nicely (it "clicks" in 3 different positions and has spring tension), but the car still will not start when it was reinstalled. It did make sure it was adjusted properly with the key cylinder.

Right now when I turn the key towards run, there is a "tick" coming from the firewall (as if the switch is sending power somewhere and actuating something - maybe the starter solenoid?), but still no dice when it comes to actually getting the car to turn over.

Any thoughts here? Maybe the switch is still faulty, or now the starter solenoid is out? Prior the switch failing, the car would turn on and run, just not shut off, which I presume was due to the switch failing. Thanks!

 

When you move the slider to START, you should have power at the solenoid, on the red/blue stripe wire on the 'S' terminal. If not, check for power on the switch crank power output (consult the wiring diagram, I'm not sure if the wire color to the neutral/start switch is the same as the wire from the NS switch to the solenoid).

 

Assuming the coil and wiring are OK, you might fix this with an up/down column adjustment? In my recollection there are slots in the switch on the column so you can do that.

 

Looks like you've made some great progress since you started! Great work and really like that you're sharing the work you've done.

Would you be so kind as to post up the part number of the gas tank you found? I followed the link and it didn't work for me. I did a search on autokrafters without success.

Thanks and keep up the good work!

 

Thanks, Andy. I will break out the multimeter and try testing for power to the "S" terminal. I will also have to figure out where where the switch crank power output is. I have no idea where that is, haha.

It's funny you mention this, because I initially thought it was a switch position issue as well. But, I made sure to really try and rule this out by moving the switch up and down to different locations on the column, as well as aligning the slide switch properly within the switch itself (there's a locating hole that runs through the switch to make sure the internal slide switch is lined up properly.) Maybe I am still not doing this right?

No problem - everyone has been super helpful here, so I am happy to get the chance to repay the favor. Seems like Autokrafters has taken it down from their site...fortunately, I found my old receipt and it appears these guys (CarID) still have it in stock. To be safe, I would reaffirm the spec's on it, but it looks like the same one I used. I am pretty sure a Country Squire tank flipped upside works and is what I did. Hope this helps!

Link here - ACP Fuel Tank

 

Okay, so I have given this a lot more thought and troubleshooting. Here's my train of thought plus a few follow-up questions:

• I can turn the key to "START" and get an audible "click" from the passenger firewall
  • This is making me believe that ignition is adjusted properly as the solenoid is getting power to actuate and connect the battery and starter terminals
  • In addition to the ignition switch, this rules out A) the key cylinder, B) the Neutral Safety Switch and C) the associated connections as points of failure. This is because power has made it thus far to click the starter solenoid.
• If the above is plausible, then the contacts inside the starter solenoid could be the culprit, as they could be worn out
  • To test this, I plan to jumper the solenoid by connect the Battery Positive large lug and S small lug together via a screwdriver (see pics)

Is this the correct way to jumper the solenoid/a sound way to go about this? Or am I completely off base?

Planning to tackle this the first chance I get, once I fully recover from COVID....thanks all!

 

Click sounds correct. If a replacement solenoid doesn't solve your problem, try replacing the starter. I have started motors using your jumper proposal -- be ready for some serious sparking when you try this. If you succeed, the starter should activate, regardless of your other problems.

 

Yup, your suppositions are mostly correct, if not fully. What you need to do now, is connect a 12 volt test light to the cable at the starter, then have a second person turn the key to start. If it lights, bad starter. If it doesn't, bad solenoid. It's also a good time to look at the solenoid-to-starter cable. They can be fried by exhaust heat, bad connections, dead shorts, or any/all of the above.

 

Perfect, thanks! I connect these two posts, correct? (see pic attached) Wasn't sure if it was these or the two bigger, outer ones.

Good to know, I will check the cable as a culprit. Thanks everyone!

 

Thank you for the gas tank info. Much appreciated.

 

Success!! Was able to get the Ranchero started/turning off properly. Turns out I needed to finagle the gearshift into Park in order to get it to run.

And of course, when one issue is resolved, another presents itself....

Anyone have a potential fix on a leaky brake distribution block? The DB leaks from the Low Pressure switch port (where the plastic fitting threads in).

I have already replaced the original with a rebuilt OEM piece bought off eBay. From what I have read, this seems to be a persistent issue, with people continuing to cycle through units until they find one that works (ideally!). I really don't want to have to keep trying out new ones until one hopefully works.

Anyone found a fix here, or know of a reputable vendor?

 

If it's leaking from the differential pressure switch port it means the o-rings on the shuttle valve are bad and the valve needs to be rebuilt.

Take a look on Muscle Car Research's site. He has rebuild kits and parts for our distribution blocks and combo valves. He has responded quickly to emails and sold me hard to find internal parts to the valves.

https://musclecarresearch.com/ford-parts

 

If it's rebuilt, it's either a torn o-ring, or the bore was honed too large for proper o-ring sealing. I've done a few of the older ones, and I've found that taking the time to carefully sand the bore in a corkscrew pattern, going slowly, and checking the piston fitment often, guarantees a snug fit, especially if the bore carries corrosion in it.

 

Tip: If you rebuild the valve, do not clean the brass in ammonia! Hydrogen molecules in ammonia are absorbed into the brass and can result in embrittlement...particularly bad around the flare fittings (area of higher stress). Instead, use citric acid. lemi-shine is a popular brand that is sold at places like walmart. I use citric for brass ammo cases and get it from amazon. It works really well to put a teaspoon/qt of water and use an ultrasonic cleaner. The ultrasonic isn't required to get a good result...but hot water helps. Leaving the brass in for too long will turn the surface a reddish orange color due to the zinc being dissolved. Just scuff it with a scotch brite and will look normal again. DO NOT clean the aluminum piston (if your valve has one). Citric will damage aluminum.

 

Thanks Andy and Basstrix - great insight! This block was supposedly "rebuilt", so I don't want to keep throwing things at the car and praying it works. After all, the definition of insanity is doing the same thing and expecting the same result haha.

I have heard mixed reviews on the Muscle Car Research Kit as well as repops - in many cases, the leak persists even after replacement/rebuild.

I'd like to avoid a "home rebuild" as a last resort if push comes to shove. Does anyone know of a solid vendor (repop or refurbished), or a rebuilding service that offers a solid product?

I am coming up a bit dry on the internet, although supposedly these guys do a good job at rebuilding blocks.

 

Send it to me, I'll rebuild it for you; you simply buy a kit, pay to send both to me, and pay for me to send it back. I charge $80/hr., and I'll bid it out at 1 hour's time for all work. PM me if you want to take me up on my offer.

 

Thanks, Andy! I appreciate your help, and will get in touch if I take you up on it.

 

I agree with the insanity analogy, but taking it apart and determining the root cause is a crucial part of the process....if it was inspected for damage to the metal parts when it was last rebuilt then it's either a damaged o-ring during reassembly or o-ring/seal material incompatibility with the brake fluid. I suppose you might add "put back together wrong" to that list, but you get the idea. You gotta start somewhere. Best wishes.