Rear Window Installation

Discussion in 'General Ranchero Help' started by Norm Gilbertson, Aug 14, 2014.

  1. Norm Gilbertson

    Norm Gilbertson In Second Gear

    Messages:
    47
    Location:
    Tacoma WA
    I have a cracked rear window that has always leaked around the weatherstripping.

    The narrower side of the weatherstripping was installed on the outside.

    Is that right?

    Have a new window and weatherstripping to install and want to do it correctly. I've read that you have to install from the inside and rope from the outside.

    That would mean, I think that the wider side of the seal would be to the outside, which would mean mine was installed incorrectly.

    Wider side out or in?

    Thanks
     
  2. Huevos

    Huevos In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    3,434
    Location:
    Nor Cal
    Dont forget to use the correct sealant,
    On my '70 the small profile of the window seal went to the inside, I think it is the same on the '65.
    Soak the window seal in real hot water for a few minutes, lay it out on a table and clean it off real good to let it lay out to shape.
    http://www.amazon.com/3M-08509-Bedding-Compound-Cartridge/dp/B000PF13JW

    Here is a video that will give you some pointers. I use a 3/16" rope.

     
  3. Norm Gilbertson

    Norm Gilbertson In Second Gear

    Messages:
    47
    Location:
    Tacoma WA
    Peeled back a little of the existing seal.

    Small side has to go to the outside for body sheet metal to slip into the seal slot.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2014
  4. Huevos

    Huevos In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    3,434
    Location:
    Nor Cal
    Thanks Norm, I did not know that. Here is some info I found on the Falcon Ranchero parts site..
    1960-1965 RANCHERO REAR WINDOW SEALS
    SKU: C0DB-6642084-A
    This part is the correct rear window seal for all models of the 1960-1965 Ford Falcon Ranchero. This rear window seal is different from all other model's rear window seals in that it is installed from inside the passenger area of the vehicle and you pull the installation rope from outside of the vehicle.
     
    dave r likes this.
  5. Norm Gilbertson

    Norm Gilbertson In Second Gear

    Messages:
    47
    Location:
    Tacoma WA
    Thanks, I did see that.

    Makes it a little difficult to seal the outside surface when you have to rope from the outside.

    The existing leaking seal did not have any sealant.
     
  6. Norm Gilbertson

    Norm Gilbertson In Second Gear

    Messages:
    47
    Location:
    Tacoma WA
    Window came out fine. Touched up a few paint spots......no rust.

    Install manana.
     
  7. Huevos

    Huevos In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    3,434
    Location:
    Nor Cal
    Good News, That is usually an area notorius for hidden rust.
     
  8. airford1

    airford1 In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    1,396
    As I remember I had my wife pushing with her feet from the inside to get that bastard to go in. Doable , but it was difficult. I'm sure I said afew bad words.
     
  9. Norm Gilbertson

    Norm Gilbertson In Second Gear

    Messages:
    47
    Location:
    Tacoma WA
    Yes, it was tight fit to get it into position and the 4 corners were a bitch.

    Wore my wife out also

    Didn't use any sealant, that really would have been messy. It would have been everywhere.

    If there are any leaks, I will seal at the rubber edges.
     
  10. 72GTVA

    72GTVA Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    9,863
    Location:
    Chesapeake, VA
    You can get a tube of 3M Automotive Bedding and Glazing Compound and using a caulking tool run a bead completely around the pinchweld joint and between the glass and the rubber - in otherwords, both channels of the gasket. Comes in black or gray - original to the car was the gray, black is a little less noticeable when a little squeezes out. You can do a search and locate it easily searching for "3M Automotive Bedding & Glazing Compound, #08509". This is the replacement material for that application, it is also used to fill the area between '72 and up window moldings and the roof pinchwelds to keep water from flowing through those moldings above the weather strip retainers.

    Do look to see if you can determine the production date of the compound - the stuff gets stiffer with age (even though it is non-hardening) and can be very difficult to get it to flow out of a hand operated caulking gun if it is old... you don't want to know how I know that!
     
  11. Norm Gilbertson

    Norm Gilbertson In Second Gear

    Messages:
    47
    Location:
    Tacoma WA
    Great news... No Leaks when flooded with a hose at car wash time.......

    No sealant used.
     
  12. handsomedevilart

    handsomedevilart In First Gear

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    san jose california
    im still trying to figure out how to get the rear window in , its just me myself and i , its been kicking my ass
     
  13. 72GTVA

    72GTVA Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    9,863
    Location:
    Chesapeake, VA
    Rubber gasket that surrounds the glass and rides over the pinchweld? Those are "roped" in...

    Basically, you fit the rubber gasket around the glass, and then you take a length of rope about a 3/16" or so in diameter and insert it into the pinch weld channel. You position the glass against the pinchweld frame roughly in the position it will be when installed and then pull the rope to pull the gasket into the car and over the pinch weld. It DOES require an assistant to hold the glass/gasket in place while you get it started and get the gasket started into position. From there it is actually pretty easy.

    Check out this video:
     
  14. handsomedevilart

    handsomedevilart In First Gear

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    san jose california
    this awesome man thanks for the help! gotta try it soon as i get a second pair of hands and ill post how it went
     
  15. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

    Messages:
    19,727
    Location:
    California
    I did a windshield by myself by installing the rubber on the pinch weld first then roping the glass in from the inside holding it with my feet until enough rubber was brought around to hold it in position.
    I was 16 then though, I doubt I would try that now and there is no room to set up for that in the back of a Ranchero.
     
  16. handsomedevilart

    handsomedevilart In First Gear

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    san jose california
    did the rope trick with the old lady helpin out and it was actually not that hard to do, few choice words came out of my mouth but it happens, along with that put new door panels in and re wired the headlights and windshield wipers next is the radio but wiring is not my specialty so i stopped there, progress is good for me large or small
     
  17. Bryan59EC

    Bryan59EC In Overdrive

    Messages:
    808
    Location:
    San Antonio, Texas
    Just so everyone knows

    The thick side of the rubber on the 60-65 goes to the INSIDE of the cab
    The thin side is on the outside
    And yes---installed from the inside
     
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  18. dave r

    dave r In Second Gear

    Messages:
    80
    the 60 Ranchero rear window has to be the hardest one compared to regular pick up trucks. Just put mine in. A lot of work just getting it back to the window opening. Had a glass company put it in last week at the interior shop and they put the wide side of the gasket out. Told them it was wrong, to reverse it and the guy got mad , taking the glass out by cutting the gasket and left. They're buying me a new gasket now. I had a second gasket at home and after some helpful hints from here, we got it in. Will be printing this page to give him since they still say it was in right
     
  19. Marty

    Marty In Third Gear

    Messages:
    150
    Location:
    NE Oklahoma
    I should have done the above when I had a new headliner installed as it keeps coming out in the back when going down the road with the windows rolled down. Will have to do that one day and will keep these posts for info.
     
  20. Rock Jaw

    Rock Jaw In First Gear

    Messages:
    1
    Location:
    Oregon
    I have been doing a 65 Ranchero Restomod for several years doing all the work myself. I looked this post before installing the rear window glass and was left somewhat confused so I thought I would add to it on my installation steps. Lots of builds happen over several years and you can forget some the details when you took the car apart for restoration and is a puzzle. Brian59 is correct the Thin or Narrow side of the rubber gasket that fits in the pinch weld is on the Outside. This is what seals out the water. The wider side of the gasket with a L flange goes on the inside in the cab and is purely cosmetic to wrap around the headliner and body.

    This is a two or three person project but can be done with a wife or 5ft tall 100lb girl friend that pulls the rope and carefully watches the gasket to make sure it is going over the pinch weld (she will need some gloves) as I did.

    Steps:
    1. On a table fit the new glass in the outside facing flange (I first added 3M strip calk in the window slot). I now think it is best to not add anything and let the glass float in the gasket to center when installing - then add sealer after it is done.
    2. Insert a 3/16 rope or para cord in the pinch weld slot of the gasket (starting and ending at the bottom center of the window leaving a foot on both ends)
    3. From the inside of the cab put the lower part of the gasket and window in the pinch weld with the top tilted back (towards the dash). Center the window the best you can - This is a Tight Fit and take your time!
    4. Once it is started in the pinch weld start to tilt the window towards the window opening - this is tight fit and takes some muscle and time to work it in. Use a screw driver or puddy knife to assist in opening up the pinch weld slot in the gasket bottom.
    5. Spray the gasket with soapy water from a spray bottle.
    6. Push down and forward on the top of the window from the cab. It will not go in to far and is at an angle until it is further seated in the pinch weld at the bottom.
    7. Have someone in the bed pull one rope to the start of the corner while inserting the gasket further into the pinch weld. go slowly making sure it going on the pinch weld of the opening.
    8. Then do the other rope to the lower corner.
    9. I used a rubber/plastic dead blow hammer hitting the gasket to make sure the gasket was inserted all the way.
    10. Make sure the gasket is soapy and slowly start on each of the corners to remove the rope while adding pressure to the top of the window. I also used a screw driver and motorcycle tire iron to assist in getting the gasket in the corner pinch weld. Don't rush and this is good spot to get a drink of water and examine the gasket placement around the window.
    11. With the gasket in the lower pinch weld there is now room to push the top part of the window in more - Spray more soapy water on the gasket.
    12. From the cab start to push the top in on both sides while guiding and watching the gasket along the side from not rolling or coming off the window.
    13. Pull the rope on the sides one at a time in six inch increments while pushing the window in at the top until you get to the corners.
    14. spray more soap on the gasket and slowly go around one top corner to the center while still pushing in on the window then the next one until it is fully seated. I used the screw driver and tire iron to help pull the gasket into the pinch weld on the sides.
    15. Use the rubber hammer to make sure the gasket is seated and go into the cab and adjust or push the flange in.
    16. Have a cold beer.
    17. Carefully add small amounts of window sealant into the outside facing seams over the glass and pinch weld to make sure it is water tight.
    Hopefully this helps and take your time. You can always start over if it is not going right at first.
     

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