A whole list of issues......

Discussion in 'Ranchero Tech Help' started by FordR500GT, Sep 29, 2017.

  1. FordR500GT

    FordR500GT In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    Im dealing with the lighting issues mainly as of now, so i'm just gonna try and list everything thats going on.
    1. 0 interior light (courtesy and dash lights) Not even idiot lights.
    2. No front flasher lights.
    3. turn signals wired incorrectly
    4. Only high beam light works on the dash.
    5. If I turn on headlights, right flasher indicator comes on

    I'm not too great with wiring. Any advice would be much appreciated
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2017
  2. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Odd group of problems.
    Look for wiring harness damage or a meth head altering things.
    If someone junked around the electrical, it is often easier to drop in a new harness from Painless or others and you can do it one item at a time and get it right.
     
  3. FordR500GT

    FordR500GT In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    Oh, you've seen the squirrel damage, so you know that the harness is pretty bad off:D
     
  4. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Sometimes the squirrels get help, I do think new wiring is in order.
    I would recommend you not rip the old wiring out. Install the new and hook up one item at a time. That way you can prioritize issues and not create a huge wall of work that needs to be done before you can use the car.
     
  5. FordR500GT

    FordR500GT In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    Wiring harness will cost more than what I paid for the car. I may just have to get a junkyard 1
     
  6. burninbush

    burninbush In Maximum Overdrive

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    Woof, you have a set of problems.

    Two connectors have a history of problems: the connector that plugs into the back of the cluster and makes contact with the printed circuit backplane, and then you should also look at the crescent-moon connector that attaches the turn signal switch assembly (located on the steering column part way down). If you remove the cluster you can get good access to the printed circuit to clean the contacts, for example how it makes contact with the dash lights. Use a pencil eraser to clean the circuit board. Obviously you must have working bulbs in the sockets.

    Many of the lights go through the fuse panel -- see that those aren't blown. And there are two blinker units, one controls rear turn signals and the brake lights, while the other operates the emergency flashers. Headlights go through their own circuit breaker which is inside the light switch.

    Good luck with it. A cheap Harbor Freight volt-ohmmeter would be useful to troubleshoot.
     
  7. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    The Summit kit is $300.
    If you take one out at a junkyard, pack a lunch.
     
  8. FordR500GT

    FordR500GT In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    Yes, I know. Long process. I had to do it before for my dad's truck
     
  9. FordR500GT

    FordR500GT In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    I think the instrument fuse is blwwn, but it broke when I pulled it out and I can't find another fuse. I do have an expensive ohmmeter that works great every other fuse is fine
     
  10. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Harbor Freight makes a box of assorted glass fuses for not very much, but it has ten of each size of fuse. Anyway, I had to go through and clean every contact area, replace some sockets and most bulbs before I had all of the illumination lights, as well as each of the idiot lights working. A pencil eraser does a good job. I also went through and removed/wire brushed/reinstalled all the nuts that hold the gauges in my cluster (GT type), and ensured the spring contacts in the connector were clean. You might also, while the cluster is out, unplug the turn signal connector, as Burninbush suggested, and ensure there's no crud on the contacts. Sometimes, just unplugging and plugging the contacts a few times makes everything work again. I had many of the same problems you have, caused by water intrusion into the cab, but a bit of dogged determination and a few new parts (turn signal and headlamp switches, and the headlamp switch pigtail) fixed a lot of the problems.
     
  11. Basstrix

    Basstrix In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    For you guys cleaning up brass contacts, I have a good tip for you. A mixture of citric acid and hot water will clean up brass to look like new and also passivates the brass so it will resist tarnishing again. If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, it works even faster. You can get it at the grocery store...it's used for canning food, among other things. You need about 2 teaspoons per quart of water. The water doesn't have to be hot (140-160F), but it works faster if it is. I use it to clean dirty brass cartridge cases and it cleans them to look like new...inside & out...even the primer pocket.

    Edit: I want to mention that some recommend vinegar or ammonia to clean brass. Don't do it! Vinegar will clean the brass alright, but it will tarnish as soon as it dries off. The ammonia cleans, but not well and it will actually soak into the brass and cause embrittlement. In the case of the arms that hold a fuse, they might snap off instead of bend.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2017
  12. FordR500GT

    FordR500GT In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    After i go look at these 3 parts cars, i'm stopping by AutoZone to buy new bulbs for everything because they all suck. I tried LED, but it made everything go whacko. My marker lights became turn signals, and my turn signals became marker lights
     
  13. Jeff B

    Jeff B In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    A couple of things, LED's do not have the resistance that an incan bulb does and will not work as a drop in replacement. You will need different flasher and/or a resistor on each light replaced. Also, the marker lights on some models will flash opposite the turn indicator (my '70 does). I have no idea how it's wired to do that but know from experience that having the wrong bulb in the wrong place can screw up a number of things. For diagnostic purposes, try to get back to stock as close as possible and see what you have. And when checking fuses, pull them out to test them. It's the only way to be sure. Good luck.
     
  14. Steve 74gtQ

    Steve 74gtQ In Overdrive

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    Check your groand conections they will cause most of your problems.
     
  15. burninbush

    burninbush In Maximum Overdrive

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    Uhmmm ... LED is polarity sensitive, and it would probably make a difference how you insert the LED into the holder -- which I believe can be inserted in the cluster either way. So it might be possible to fix one not working by just un-bayoneting the bulb assembly, rotating it 180 degree and put it back in. Some replacements might come with a resistor, but you'd still need to observe polarity. (guessing, I haven't used LED lights)
     
    Jeff B likes this.
  16. Jeff B

    Jeff B In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    I went thru a number of ins and outs when I converted my bike to LED turn indicators. I ended up getting a LED specific flasher and had to ad diodes so the dash indicator would work. There are automotive flashers that have their own resistors included inside so that no matter what is attached to them, they open and close at the same rate. Otherwise known as heavy duty flashers, but you have to check the specs to see how they are made.
     
  17. Sophie948

    Sophie948 In Overdrive

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    Good hit on citric acid, Basstrix,. I occasionally reload, so good info for that as well.
     

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