Hello, my 'Chero project has been going along fairly well.. It has received so far a carb rebuild, a new rag joint, a new radiator, had the trans pan dropped and new filter & fluid put in and a new vacuum modulator put on (trans still doesn't shift up from 1st to second, but that isn't the topic of this thread).. a junk yard tail gate handle put on, new tailgate straps made from some hardware store cable.. wiring fixes and bulbs.. and so on.. The issue I need to get addressed next, so I can put some careful miles on it to work the fuel through and see if the trans fixes itself is brake lights and hazards. Here is what I have so far.. the turn signals work.. front & rear.. and it has new flasher cans for both turn signals and hazards but I still get no brake lights and no hazards.. it looks like the brake light switch does work and I worked on the wiring from the switch to the rest of the harness. It sounds like this circuit goes up into the column and through the turn signal switch on these but I can't find a correct wiring schematic for what wires I need to chase. Anyone have one? Thanks fellas. (btw, the gauge cluster is out of it right now, I could possibly see the hazards needing the indicators in the dash to work right but would be surprised if brake lights did)
the blinker or directional switch in the steering column same problem on my 1972 , replaced no more problems and 4 ways blink all the signal light circuits are in that switch
Yup, I also have a '79 GT, I rebuilt the column several years ago, and replaced the switch due to no turn signals. The switch couples the load onto the flasher to make it interrupt current flow. The flasher switch cam is where the contact is made, but if the contact buttons are too worn down (as mine were), then a new cam won't make contact. So pull the steering wheel, and on the left is a 1/4" hex screw...remove it, then carefully work the cam off. The contact wires are underneath the cam, and the contact buttons are in the switch body. The wires should be round with no flat spots, and the buttons should be 'domed.' If those buttons are worn off, no replacement cam will fix that.
Hey guys thanks for the responses. This rig had been parked for the last 20 years and they worked when it was used last. I think it's more likely that some mice got to the harness somewhere and a wire has been chewed. I would prefer to see a wiring diagram and chase the wires than assume it's the switch. Anybody have a full wiring schematic? Thanks.
The brake and the hazards are different circuits. Since you have the gauges out you could do a continuity check by tapping the correct pin on the gauge block and probing the light socket at the rear via a "tone and probe" type device, that would tell you if the wires are still connected which would lead you to answers at one end or the other. Cheers, Doc
Well so after nobody being able to hook me up with a schematic I broke out the multi-meter and traced from wire to wire to wire until I found corrosion in the fuse block terminal clip between the thick yellow wire and the fuse. Not either side of the clip but the junction of one side of the clip to the other wasn't passing current. After popping it out of the block, hitting it with a wire brush and a bit of solder everything does as it is suppose to now. Took a little while, but right as rain now.
My apologies, but I forgot you needed one after I got back from Texas. But that's good you were able to suds out the circuit open at the fuse block terminals. Since Babe leaks water into the cab, I have to address corrosion on the fuse terminals every once in a while.
