Just found out that I can't turn my 65 9" 6 cyl front brake drums. They were 1 mm over tolerance and was told after turning they would be under. Can the hubs and studs be saved or do I have to replace everything? Thoughts , options, suggestions?
I'd do what it takes to salvage the hubs and lug studs, IF, everything is in good condition or better. Clean it all up after removing the drum-- the bearings and inner seal, the hub center and the lug studs. Replace anything that looks or feels like it's been through the wringer. And then, a new drum.
If there is nothing wrong with the hubs and studs leave them be. If they are questionable it might be a great opportunity to do the front bearings, races and lugs to those that are not 54 years old. If you have spindle issues, that is a horse of a different color. Cheers, Doc
I've already purchased hardware kits, wheel cylinders, Brake shoes etc. I've never had to remove hubs/studs from drums before (my other cars are a little newer ) How does one go about removing hubs and studs? Do I take to a shop or can I do myself. I want to do the brakes right but it's already more costly than I had anticipated and haven't even got to the rear brakes yet. How crazy would it be to put new shoes in and clean up the drums without turning or replacing drums. The reason I'm doing the brakes is because car sat for so long. The drum surface has some surface rust but no grooves or pitting. The goal is to make this my around town vehicle and not restore to show car.
If the drum surface is smooth to the point of no undulation and has a near-mirror surface, perhaps you can do just the shoes and hardware, but that can invite too many ifs into their use. Just take the hub to a machine shop, who'll press out the studs and press off the hub. Then clean everything of all grease as best you can, and inspect. If your bearings are worn, you'll want to replace them, along with the seal, and the drum itself. Then pack the new bearings, replace the outer races in the hub, slop two fingers of reserve grease into the hub, and put it all together. All-new brakes.
I have 10" drums, but ran into the same issue recently. I decided to get new hubs/races/seals/etc, so I can get everything together, and still keep the '64 on the road. I got everything but the hubs from RockAuto. The hubs came from Jegs. I also got a race driver tool from Amazon. Still waiting on stuff to come in. The bare hubs were $150 for the pair. More than I wanted to pay, but again, I can take my time with assembling everything without taking my girl off the road. Also, when all is done, everything will be new. Joseph
Quick update on the brakes... O'Reilly's wouldn't turn front drums because I was close to their tolerance limits. I mentioned to local garage mechanic and he looked at them and felt there was plenty of meat on them and that the last brake job didn't have a lot of miles on it. Because of contamination to shoes he suggested light turn to drums, new wheel cylinders, shoes, springs etc. Fronts are done and started on rears. Shouldn't be too much longer til we get on road for first time in many years. Thanks to all who advised and made suggestions thus far.
Your drums are 1mm over tolerance do not do a light turn it will just make it worse, lightly sand to surface if you are not going to replace them. Brakes are one place doing a halfass job or using cheap parts should NOT be done. I bought some Autozone rotors 4 months later both were warped, spend the bucks and do it right.
