Removing the oil pan with engine in the car, 1968 289 Ranchero

Discussion in 'Ranchero Tech Help' started by fust, Jul 19, 2020.

  1. fust

    fust In Third Gear

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    Hello!

    So I just finished pulling the pan on my 1968 stock 289 Ranchero 500 with the motor still in the car, so I decided to start a write up about what I'm doing, in part because I was successful so far, but also because I need some advice before moving forward.

    Unfortunately, everything was so covered in decades of oil sludge (including my hands), I didn't want to grab my phone to take photos, so this will be all text at this stage. For the record, I decided to take things to this level because I was in there to do a timing cover gasket and realized the oil pan and rear main were the source of much of my oil leakage woes, so since I already had everything off the front of the engine down to the timing chain, I decided to go for it and do the pan gasket (was cork) and rear main (leaked since I got the car 20 yrs ago) too. I don't know if it's even necessary to remove everything like I did to do just the oil pan itself, but I present what I did here nonetheless.

    I do want to mention that contrary to what I thought before I started, it was actually super easy to remove the pan! That said, I have not yet tried to reinstall, so we'll see... :)

    Procedure in my case was this:
    • You can do this job without jacking the car up via the chassis, but you will need to jack up the motor in the car. That said, access for some sections of the job will be way easier if the car is lifted, but wait to do this because in earlier steps, it will be way easier to access the engine bay when the car is on the ground. Jack stands or ramps are a 100% MUST if you lift the car!!! Don't just rely on the jack, EVER!! 'Nuff said!
    • As far as tools, I did use a long socket extension and u-joint adapter that didn't come with my socket set, and a cheap Harbor Freight cordless impact gun, to get the job done. A normal end wrench or socket wrench would have worked, or a normal cordless drill with a socket adapter, but you do need socket extensions and a socket u-joint even if you're going the easy way with power tools, and probably even if you're using a manual ratchet too I'd guess...
    • Drain the oil. Do this a couple of days before if possible because that sucker will drip forever. I did that, and I still had it drip right in my ear hole while I was under there. Yuck!
    • Pull everything off the front of the engine and be prepared to replace all the gaskets if you do (fan/water pump/timing cover/alternator/ power steering pump, etc.). You may not need to take everything off, but I did so since I had a bad gasket, and I used the time I was waiting for gaskets and parts to arrive to clean the living begeezies out of every possible part and bracket, because they were so caked with grime. My process got the parts looking factory new with grocery store materials! If you want the process, ask and I'll tell... Absolute minimum you will have to take the fan off the front of the engine, and if that's all you do, maybe a good idea to take the radiator out too, for space concerns. In my case, hoses were off the rad, but it stayed in, since I already took off the alt and power steering to make space, and it seemed clear enough as it was... You decide!
    • Next, unbolt the sway bar endlinks and pull 'em out. Unbolt the sway bar to frame bushings, and remove the sway bar. You might not have to do this. I did because the bushings were shot from being soaked in oil constantly for the last 15 years (at least), and it looked like it would be easier to pull the pan if it was out. Turned out an end link was bent too, so I replaced all the bushings and end links. Lesson?? Inspect the rest of your suspension while down there, because you're going to be intimate at this point... Plan replacements as needed!
    • place a floor jack with a stack of 3 square pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 on top up under the oil pan, and just snug up to it. To make sure you're not damaging the oil pan when you apply the jack, be sure the wood blocks don't don't impact the drain plug/drain plug area, and make sure the pieces lift against a flat area of the pan.
    • unbolt and remove the long horizontal aligned bolts going through the motor mounts on either side
    • remove the two nuts on the vertically aligned bolts on the bottom of the transmission mount
    • be prepared with a few sizes of wooden blocks to put in between the motor mounts and the frame.
    • jack the motor up very slowly, monitoring the motor mounts to see how far up you've gone, and paying special attention to the rear area/firewall/hump part to make sure you stop lifting the moment it makes contact (or right before it does). Check everything all over the engine and transmission for stuff that might be getting pinched or crushed or ripped out as you go!
    • When you're at maximum lift without damaging anything (only about one inch for me), jam the wooden blocks in between the frame and the motor mounts. I ended up using a short 1x3-ish piece stuck in the gap between the frame and the mount, and a short 2x3-ish piece wedged diagonally on the other side because that side didn't lift high enough for a 1x3 to fit in the slot, but angling a larger piece against some mounting surfaces proved effective. You will have to make the call yourself as to if your supports are safe. This write-up is purely for informational aspects and is not a full how-to, so users will have to do further research to be safe and effective in their own situation! Be careful!
    • Slowly lower the motor onto the blocks of wood. When tension has been transferred off the jack to the blocks, I like to get in there, and with hands and such safely out of the way, bang things around and push/pull the part that was lifted from diff. angles to make sure it's secure. The mounts are still in the car so it's unlikely the engine will actually fall on your head while you're under there, but if the motor slips and drops even 1/4 an inch while your hands are up in some tight spot holding a wrench... :( It has to be completely immobile!
    • As a safety measure, I levered the jack back up just snug against the pan and left it there while I worked
    • Now, put some eye protection on (junk will drop on your face while you work), get in there and start final removal. The starter will have to come out. It's tempting, but don't let it just hang from the wire after removal! At least hang it from somewhere with a piece of coat hanger, and continue...
    • Moving along, if possible, use a power tool like an air ratchet (I used an impact I had handy but I think a regular drill with a socket adapter would have worked too) and go around the pan pulling all the bolts. Most of them are 7/16", but there are four "key" bolts at the front corners and in the rear by the main seal that are 1/2". You can use manual tools, but... So much happier using power tools!
    • Once you get the last bolts out, you might have to pry a bit to get the pan off. Mine just dropped right down, but not before I realized I'd missed one bolt, so pay attention!
    • slide the pan forward and down to clear the oil pickup tube, and you can then just pull it out the front. I've seen people saying you had to remove the oil pump and drop it into the pan, but that was not the case for me (1968 stock 289 Ranchero specific). It just came right out with no fuss. YMMV.
    • Also note that this removal occurred at Top Dead Center. It's been said that one might need to rotate the crank to align the crankshaft at different phases as the pan came out (move the pan along, rotate the crank, move the pan along, rotate the crank, move the pan along...etc...) in order to facilitate easy removal. TDC was absolutely perfect in that I could just pull the pan right out with no engine rotation. Honestly, I didn't see how there might be a problem with the system at a different position. It seemed there was ample space with the motor jacked up 1 inch, and even that seemed like it might not have been necessary!
    OK, so that wraps up where my saga stands now! Well sort of. I'll post again with my questions for the true veterans and also maybe to cry in my beer... You'll see... But it's bedtime now...

    I'll try and update soon with all bolt head sizes and torque specs/threadlock or anti seize recommendations I can glean. Otherwise, enjoy!

    Cheers! :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2020
    Buds 67 likes this.
  2. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    Great write-up. Only one question though, did you (like most of us) stick your greasy finger in your ear to clean out the oil drip? :rolleyes: :oops:
    Very well written, thanks. :p
     
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  3. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Haha, of course he did, it's like going after a skeeter yelling EEEEEEEEEEE in your ear.
    The crankshaft position to slip out the pan is TDC; I just forgot that tidbit. And X2 on the screen. But a question: what does the 351 need just to run, vs. the repairs and parts for the 289? maybe a quick cost write-up is in order.
     
  4. fust

    fust In Third Gear

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    Nah, I just sprayed it out with some carb cleaner... :D
     
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  5. fust

    fust In Third Gear

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    Funny you should say that, I'm actually doing that cost analysis right now! I'll have questions on that and will make a new thread for it.

    Thanks!
     
  6. grebaba

    grebaba In Fourth Gear

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    While you are in there it would be a good time to install a new oil pimp.
    Greg
     
  7. beerbelly

    beerbelly In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Pimp-1_grande.jpg
     
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  8. fust

    fust In Third Gear

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    Thanks, good point!
     
  9. fust

    fust In Third Gear

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    Location:
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    So... I was going to continue to write up rear main seal replacement in-car, buuuuut... I'm pretty sure I have a failed bearing, because pieces of metal were in the pan when I dropped it. So, I'll sign off here in this thread, and move to the one about getting my 351W in there instead. Cheers!
     
  10. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Oh, that's what I was going to say earlier but was interrupted and plum forgot. Take a ball peen hammer. You will tap each of the main caps dead center. Not hard, but enough to hear if it rings, or clunks. Then, rotate the engine so that each pair of rods is at BDC (bottom dead center), and repeat for all four pairs. Rings, not clunks. If they all ring, then one more check: take a prybar or big screwy stick, lever the crank all the way forward. Then, watching how far it moves, lever it all the way back. I forget what the thrust bearing clearance spec is (and I left my manual in the garage), but if it moves a tiny bit, then along with the crank bearings, the crank is hunky dory. Any clunks, too much thrust movement, and hopping to the 351 will be a better bet.
     
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  11. fust

    fust In Third Gear

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    OK, I'm gonna crawl under there and try this out. Would it help to listen with a stethoscope?
     
  12. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    No need for a stethoscope. It's loud enough for you to hear. But if you have hearing issues, cup your free hand around your better ear.
     
  13. Freestyle Don

    Freestyle Don In Third Gear BRONZE MEMBER

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    Ideal thrust clearances .004/.006.
    010 would be absolute max.
     
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  14. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    ^^^What he said. If you do decide to remove the main and rod caps for a peek (and maybe photos), the main caps are numbered from their casting; rod caps may not be marked (look carefully for digits, dots, lines, etc.), so marking them and keeping them properly grouped (1&5, 2&6, etc.) will prevent incorrect reinstallation.
     
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  15. fust

    fust In Third Gear

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    Thanks for the tip! I'll be doing the same with the 351 to plastigage and see where it stands. I'm gonna leave the 289 caps until it's traded places with the 351 on the stand...
     

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