Just bought a 79 Ranchero (pictured). Haven't picked it up yet. Have a pic of the door tag and if I'm reading it right it has a 302 6.6L. Owner swears it's a 351 or 400. I have no pics yet of engine but odometer reads just north of 20k miles. Apparently this car only left the county once and just sat most of its life. Really excited to get my hands on this thing. I have next to zero auto-mechanical knowledge and am using this as my first project car. Bought my first Ranchero in 1991 when I was in high school - 1972 Rachero 500 (pea green). Used it to mow lawns. Always regretted getting rid of it. Just dropping in to say hey.
302 cubic inches is 5.0 liters; the 351M/400 is the same engine family, and will say the specific displacement on the emissions label on the Bank 2 (driver side) valve cover, if it's still there. If you can post pics, near and far, of the engine itself, we might be able to help you ID it.
Thanks. Like I said, next to zero knowledge. But, this link http://www.ranchero.us/forum/index.php?threads/vin-door-plate-and-trim-information.5712/tells me it's a 79 built in Lorain, OH and it has a 302 V8. We'll see. Thanks for the response!
My rig, Babe, doesn't have her original 351M engine and FMX trans; it's why pics are desired, because that helps us help you ID what engine you do have.
Understood, and thanks. Will post engine pics just as soon as I get them. Won't pick it up for at least a few weeks unfortunately. Much appreciated!
@handy_andy_cv64 Thanks for the tip. Emissions label (once I uncovered it) reveals a 302 V-8 5.0 L. Pics of engine, etc. at the link. 54k miles. Just picked it up! https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jz7h3bsvshxxg3b/AABz34dfe6XUyc30kxUshZIga?dl=0 We hooked up a new battery just to see what would happen and it wanted to turn over so that's a good sign. Not sure if gas tank is empty or if there's a little bad gas in there. It sat outside untouched for over 2.5 years. Right now it's in my driveway and I need to at least get it running in order to back it up 30ft, uphill, into my garage. That's Phase 1. My plan is as follows: Let me know if I'm off base. Change oil, replace filter, add gas or replace bad gas. Maybe prime the carb to get it going. Not sure if I need to pull that gas tank down to check first or not, but if so, I'll have to learn to do that. If I can get it running and backed up, I'll move to hoses, belts, tranny and diff fluids, etc. and kinda just go piece by piece from there. Would love any direction in terms of diy links, youtube, etc. for beginners like me. I'm lucky, I have a first project car which seems to be in relatively good shape and a few friends and family members who know their way around an engine. Thanks again all. Can't wait to get started.
First off, that's likely your problem, the carb's bone dry. Requires A LOT of cranking, or starting fluid, or bowl priming. The carb appears to be the factory 2150, which has easily-accessible bowl vents on the top of the air horn, and if it needs a rebuild, they're fairly easy to do. The oil change and oil filter are given, and you should plan to only run that change a thousand miles and another oil and filter change. As for the carb gas filters, I have new spares if you can't find any. They're good for 5000 miles. Then once you've driven it enough to be satisfied it'll start and run, inspect the brakes, remedy anything needing fixing or replacing, and fully flush the brake hydraulics. Replace the tires if they're damaged or dry rotted. Then flush the cooling system, new belts/hoses/coolant. Then a tune-up with plugs/wires/cap/rotor/PCV. In my humble opinion, in that order. For questions or DIY, use the Search function. You'll be surprised what you might find.
Spot on. Carb was dry, tank was dry. Oil level was good and Consistency seemed fine. I put 5 gal of premium in it and shot starting fluid down the carb. Fired up first try. I eventually got it to where it would idle on it’s own and let it run for about 10 minutes, drove it once around the cul de sac very slowly. Seemed ok. In and out of gear fine. A little rough but overall in great shape I think. Next I’ll change oil and filter and so on. Engine is so dirty it’s hard to tell what’s what. Took some work to uncover that emissions label. Best engine degreaser/cleaner? Thanks again.
Okay, she’s in the garage now and I’m ready to get her up on stands and start changing fluids. Today I’m starting with oil, and coolant as it appears bone dry. 1. what’s the best oil to use in an original 79 302V8 5.0cl with 54k miles on it? Or the best way to figure out the answer. Service history is spotty but shows at one point it was taking Mobil 15w 40. But that was on a 2005 oil change invoice. Previous owner had 4 quarts of NAPA 10w 30 under the bench. 2. same question on pretty much all my fluids And filters. 79 Ranchero owner’s manual just says ford or motor craft brand meeting given spec numbers. thanks!
1) 10W-30 oil is fine if the oil pressure hot is 20 pounds or better. But you have to have oil and filter to find out. 2) Walley World has FL1A filters for a low price, less than $5 here in South Texas. I bought two and used one so far. 3) Don't forget the air, crank breather and fuel filters.
So, we had it running for a while then gas stopped getting to the carb. We pulled the pump last week and today the tank. Bad gas. We blew the line out and are replacing pump and tank. I've found everything I need except a filler neck gasket/seal that will fit. The seal I'm replacing is 3 1/8" OD, 2 1/4" ID and it looks different than what I'm seeing on rockauto or other parts sites. Take a look and let me know what you think. Thanks! So far I've replaced all my filters, oil, lots of hoses, rotor, distributor cap, put in all new plugs and wires and threw on four brand new cooper cobras, and four factory hubs I ran down. Slowly coming together.
Those are pretty close to the ones used on Crown Vic/Grand Marquis/Town Car, 1979 through at least 2003, if not all the way to 2011. See if they could be subbed in. When I dropped my tank for hose replacement up top, I pulled that seal, and kept it because the actually sealing area was still intact.
The ford part number for this part is E1AZ9072B it was used also on vans in the 80,s . If you hunt around you can find them use www.partsvoice.com and it will help you find a dealer that may have one.
Huge! Thanks Guys. We replaced the tank And associated hoses/seals, replaced the line and had the carb taken apart, cleaned and rebuilt. Runs like a champion! One part I’m having trouble finding is the air cleaner inlet hose or cold air intake tube, whatever. The thing that goes from behind the grill to the end of the breather. On mine, both breather and inlet behind grill have rectangle couplings. It looks like I need a Dorman 96050, rectangular flexible intake tube. Nobody has these rectangle jobs. Any ideas? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
