What oil are you using?

I've been using Valvoline VR1 10W-30 for several years, and it seems to be a fine oil, high in zinc for my old flat tappet 289. It's getting spendy, even at Amazon, so I've been kicking around the idea of trying a semi or full synthetic, like Mobil 1 10W40 High Mileage, which claims to have high levels of zinc also. Better price, but I've heard the stories about leaks after switching from conventional to synthetic too.

I'd like to hear what others are using, especially if you've switched from dino to synth, and how that worked out.

 

Same as you, VR1 - I use Mobil1 in all the newer cars here, but not in the older pieces. If there's a place to leak, synthetic will find it. The lack of a PCV valve is almost a guarantee of a leak with synthetic. The Valvoline is cheap insurance.

 

I have a cousin who, by trade, is a petrochem engineer (but is now a professor at Washington State U.), and in discussions with him, the syn oil leakage in older cars has pretty much been alleviated when a seal actually doesn't leak on dino oil. It's generally only where a seal/seal surface is so worn, that it will leak dino oil that it really leaks out synthetic. I'll be testing that when I do Babe's next oil change, as I'll be going back to full syn oil. My cousins recommends Castrol's and Valvoline's formulas.

 

Hey Andy -
I don't know what "sun oil leakage" is, but I can tell you that older seals were made of different materials that do not respond well to synthetics, resulting in leaks.

 

My last oil change I used Valvoline VR1 Racing Synthetic SAE 10W-30. It was $40 for a case of 6 last year, and is now like $65. Big deal. I'm not changing it every 6 months. More like every 16 months. I last changed it last summer after replacing the intake gasket, and have put maybe 500 miles on it since. It's still gold and clear, so it's staying in there.

 

Phil, my God damned phone loves to change word spellings on a whim. I have corrected the error (it did it on two other times I've used the abbreviated word 'syn'). Anyway, according to him, it wasn't the seal material that caused the leaks, it was not putting in an additive that helped the oil stay behind the seal. Once the chemists figured that out, and added it in, that problem pretty much went away on those engines that weren't worn to a fair-thee-well.

 

It's way more fun reading it the other way

 

Ran Mobil1 in my 289 (66k original miles) with no problems or consumption. Had a 78 fiesta that would go thru a quart between changes (at 4 k), after trying mobil1 it was about 900 mi/qt. No signs of a leak, seemed to work its way past rings / valve seals.

 

Hey guys, I did previously use Valvoline Max Life. While I know its the original 390 - have no history after 6 years & not sure how much work &/or whats been done prior to my ownership. A couple of months ago i put in Lucas Hot Rod & Classic that some car friends suggested, (has high zinc). My 69 seemed to run smoother/quieter... but, that might just be me trying to justify the extra $'s it cost. And agree w TD - with putting on low mileage, (maybe 200 miles/mo.) - the oil gets changed every 12-18 months.

 

To all,

I am using Joe Gibbs 10-30 wt oil. Just put in the five quarts and new filter on the 6t4 Rockin Ranch Arrow. Price for me as 7.99 a quart at the parts store.

Supposed to have a good zinc content ?

RRA

 

I used to run rotella t 15/40 for a long time then when they changed the mix I went to mobil 1 10/30 and I'm happy with it

 

Had a engine builder tell me to use ROTELLA because it has ZINC in it. He said older motors need the zinc to prevent wear.

 

Here's some good info regarding oils and their zinc (ZDDP) levels:
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?136304-What-oil-brands-offer-the-best-protection

 

Rotella T did have more zinc in it but they cut it in half or so, I think it was around 1100 ppm and then down to 600 or so and it was tough to get it in full gallons for a while. Buy it in gallons and it would have 3 to 31/2 quarts in it if you were lucky so I changed and went with what I did based on the pressure tests a guy did and Mobil one was about twice what Rotella was..

 

Beerbelly - good article - Very helpful. Its clear the author has received significant 'push back' from folks w their own views/perspective... Which i get, but its hard to dispute scientific data (assuming it was accurately & fairly generated, as well as repeatable )... Will do some price/availability/performance shopping prior to next oil change. Living in So Cal - its gets pretty hot & never close to freezing so typically go w 10w40. Hwy, I know there's nasty fires in Oregon - stay safe. In So Cal - the skies have been yellow/orange during the day due to so much ash in the air...

 

I ran Valvoline 10W-40 in my '75 460 for years - 265,000 miles. The engine rebuilder said it was very clean inside when dismantled.

I do wish Ford offered a Motorcraft synthetic blend in a 10W-40.

 

Thanks for the information BB, I hope you & the other members are safe out there from those fires!!!!

 

Saw the sun today for the first time in over a week:

 

ah - good to know!

 

I wanted to resurrect this thread as I just did an oil change in my '63.
Based on the info in the link and what most of the respondents said they use, I went with Valvoline VR1 10/30 and a Wix 51515 oil filter.
First oil change since I bought it a little over a year ago and based on the dark color of the oil, it needed it. I had added a little Seafoam to the crankcase a couple weekends ago and driven maybe 200 miles before today's oil change, so she's ready for spring and summer driving.
At any rate, I'm glad I read this thread last year as I had never got around to the oil change, I had the VR1 ready as I'd bought it on sale.
On a side note, easiest oil change ever, the filter can be removed from the top side of the motor while standing as opposed to on your back from underneath, love the simplicity of this car.