1967 wiper switch

Discussion in 'Ranchero Parts Wanted' started by cbolt, Mar 8, 2017.

  1. cbolt

    cbolt In Third Gear SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    207
    Location:
    Palm Coast, FL
    Now if anyone has pics of the windshield washer location, the pump and squirt nozzles specifically, that would be quite helpful. My car has the switch, but no pump or squirt nozzles.
     
  2. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Fourth Gear GOLD MEMBER

    Messages:
    417
    I'll look, I'm not even sure mine still has those, even though it came that way from the factory.
     
  3. cbolt

    cbolt In Third Gear SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    207
    Location:
    Palm Coast, FL
    Thanks. Im telling you, this car is kicking my butt. Im trying to put it back together, the blower and ww stop working. So, I find the bad ww switch, and finally order one. Hope that gets it, but I am no longer sure. The blower motor stopped working, so I troubleshoot it to a bad ground, fix that, then the cig lighter stops working. Ugh! There is a split blue wire that feeds the lighter and clock. When I put a load on the circuit, (Push the lighter in) the voltage drops and I have to wiggle stuff around before I can read voltage on the plugs again. So I found a ground wire that wasn't hooked up under the dash near the drivers side vent, and ground it to the seat belt warning light. With that now properly grounded I redo everything I have looked at regarding the lighter, blower motor, and ww switch. No change on anything. So I gave up for now. Ugh. This car is fighting every single thing I do to it.

    Since my ww switch did in fact disintegrate, the new one will help but not sure if the new one will get the ww to actually work yet. I don't have any schematics for inside the switches, so I am left to wonder what switch position does what without a good part to check.

    Oh yeah, I forgot to mention my emergency flashers stopped working suddenly as well. They were working initially, but after getting the horn to work, the emergency flashers quit.

    One step forward, four steps back. This car was supposed to be on the road back in October.
     
  4. Jeff B

    Jeff B In Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

    Messages:
    616
    And you thought getting a 50 year old car was a great idea............Keep at it, you will get there. Allow yourself a break if things piss you off.
    I have a "For Sale" sign in the garage, but I will probably never use it.
     
    cbolt likes this.
  5. cbolt

    cbolt In Third Gear SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    207
    Location:
    Palm Coast, FL
    LOL I hear you. I kind of figure I should have purchased a dash harness, just to minimize or eliminate the electrical gremlins that happen with old, brittle wires. Those things are freakishly expensive, but worth every penny. The other car I did was a chevy, and new harnesses for most of the car, which was a tremendous help. I have no plans to give up, I just give up for today. Tomorrow is a brand new day and ill be back at it then. I have many problems to solve before I can install the A/C, radio, dash, carpet, console, seats... etc, etc, etc. But im getting there.
     
    Jeff B likes this.
  6. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    306
    Location:
    Sutherlin, OR
    Maybe this will help... I do have the parts catalog from Ford... looks like 66/67 Fairlanes were in a class by themselves. Can't find any crossover to other models.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. cbolt

    cbolt In Third Gear SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    207
    Location:
    Palm Coast, FL
    It looks like the pump motor mounts on the same inner fender as the bag?
     
  8. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Fourth Gear GOLD MEMBER

    Messages:
    417
    An electrical schematic will be a huge help to you, if I didn't have one I can just imagine the mess I'd have now.:rolleyes:
     
  9. cbolt

    cbolt In Third Gear SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    207
    Location:
    Palm Coast, FL
    I have a schematic, it is just very worn and difficult to read. What would be helpful is if the wire colors were easy to identify. I can see what color they are supposed to be, but it is difficult to see when looking at the actual wires. (they are pretty dirty) I did solve the blower motor ground issue. Now I have to solve the flashers (I think the flasher itself is bad) and the cig lighter. That has me baffled. When I read those wires today (the clock/lighter feed) they get voltage when I turn the lights on. WTH?!?! Lucky for me all the lights work otherwise, and just the clock/lighter feed is acting weird. I can make a new lead if I have to, and that would be quite simple. I would rather have the factory correct wiring in working order though. You know, for the next guy if it ever leaves my possession.
     
  10. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    306
    Location:
    Sutherlin, OR

    everything on my disc is b/w

    But Dearborne Classics has this

    http://www.dearbornclassics.com/ford-fairlane-color-laminated-wiring-diagram-1962-1970.html
     
  11. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    306
    Location:
    Sutherlin, OR
  12. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Fourth Gear GOLD MEMBER

    Messages:
    417
    I just went over your post(s) again, and I believe the blue wire is the dash light feed - check the wire that goes to the dash bulbs, I think that is blue. My lighter has a pink(ish) heavy gauge (10-12) wire going to the center post. The clock has to be constant power, doesn't it? But the light in the clock should be on the headlight feed.
     
  13. cbolt

    cbolt In Third Gear SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    207
    Location:
    Palm Coast, FL
    Pony, both of those items look really tempting. I priced just the cowl harness at almost $700, so a whole car for $500 is almost a no-brainer. A lot of work, but in my past life I did aircraft wiring, electrical, and electronic systems so I certainly have the ability. I am much lazier nowadays however..... Ugh!

    pmrphil, my book shows those two blue plugs as going to the clock and cig lighter. Which book are you using? Most of the dash light wiring is code 19, (blue) and the wire feeding the 15A006 assembly is code 40, blue-white stripe. Mine looks all blue due to age and dirt. The book I have is the Jim Osborn reproductions 1967 fairlane wiring diagram manual, which came with the car (gee I wonder why?) and is very tattered and worn.

    By the way, I received my wiper switch in the mail yesterday, it looks brand new. Why do I feel a mere 50/50 shot that was the cause of the wipers not working?
     
  14. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Fourth Gear GOLD MEMBER

    Messages:
    417
    My stuff is still all snowed in, I was going by memory (which also might be snowed in :confused:) but the lighter CAN'T be on the same circuit as the dash lights - it simply draws too much amperage. When the snow clears I'll get a peek under the dash and also look for the schematic. I know I have one, and you're welcome to it.
     
  15. davis

    davis In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    1,690
    Location:
    LB, CA
    Cbolt, i'll have to take a look at my washer setup. i know its still intact, but its been a long while since i actually used it. i think the pump is mounted next to the water bag on the inner fender wall. mustang units are foot pump actuated. the pedal is down next to kick panel above a dimmer floor switch. they look like a small clutch pedal.

    when i removed the dash cluster to paint the bezel, i took the wiper switch/washer switch out, at which time, the white plastic spacer/slider bar you have in the pic broke. i did not reinstall it.
    i did look through my extra parts box for a possible washer switch, no luck. all i found was a heater blower motor switch and a headlight switch.
     
  16. cbolt

    cbolt In Third Gear SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    207
    Location:
    Palm Coast, FL
    Davis, I appreciate your time and trouble. I received the switch in the mail, installed it, and it works perfectly. I have no washer set up at all... no pump, hoses, or squirters. I do have the bag and switch itself, which has the wiring and is working as well. So I will be needing the squirter nozzles, hoses, and pump to get everything working as advertised again. I think I have holes underneath the bag which the pump may mount to, I just cannot tell for sure.
     
  17. davis

    davis In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    1,690
    Location:
    LB, CA
    i'll have to look at the squirters for ranchero and mustang. they may be the same. i'll take some ranchero washer pics.
     
    cbolt likes this.
  18. davis

    davis In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    1,690
    Location:
    LB, CA
    hey cbolt.
    shot these today.
    my water line to the nozzles is not connected. but the wiring comes out from the harness near the master cylinder on firewall.
    [​IMG]
     
    cbolt likes this.
  19. davis

    davis In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    1,690
    Location:
    LB, CA
    heres a pic of my removed ranchero nozzles compared to 67 mustang unit.
    the mustang have a bend in them on the cowl and are the same driver/pass side. it uses a plastic T to split the water line.
    [​IMG]
     
    cbolt likes this.
  20. cbolt

    cbolt In Third Gear SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    207
    Location:
    Palm Coast, FL
    on the nozzles, which one is which? Also, can you show me where they mount on the 'chero? Looks to me like I can purchase the mustang ones and make them work. Also the pump picture shows yours where I have holes, that that matches up nicely. Thanks a million davis!!!
     

Share This Page