1969 Engine swap project update, calling it done. Video inside.

Discussion in 'The Stable' started by Boiler92, Apr 24, 2022.

  1. Boiler92

    Boiler92 In Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Lots of trials and tribulations but got the bugs worked out - I hope. Got about 10 miles on the rebuilt engine now. Gonna just put the hood on and drive it for awhile before I tear into anything else. Thanks to all who helped me along the way!

     
  2. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    When setting lash cold before fire-up, the spec is one turn after you cannot spin the push rod between your thumb and finger. Then, once you've fired up, broken in the cam, adjusted low idle, topped off coolant and checked for leaks, you then pull off the valve covers, put down a few big pieces of cardboard, and start it up. With the engine hot and running, you loosen each nut carefully till it begins to tap, then turn 1/2-3/4 turn back down. It's gonna smoke like a dog, be hotter than the fires of Hell, but in the end, it'll be so worth it. Good to hear it fired after 2-3 cranks, but I'm hoping the 400 RPM drop was something to do with the carb choke. The spec is 700 +/- 50 RPM curb idle, and approximately 100 RPM drop into R or D.
     
  3. Dyno

    Dyno In Fourth Gear

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    Good to see ya have it drive able.
    Andy's method works but is a mess like he said.
    Been setting them on the engine stand for years now myself. In car use the Intake opens and starts to close adj the exhaust rocker, Exhaust starts to open adjust the intake. Looking for plunger to be about .040"-.060" below the clip on a hydraulic lifter. Easier with no intake but still plenty doable after a couple times you develop a "feel" while spinner pushrod.
     
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  4. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    Slight adjustment needed to your advice Andy, but it's SO important to know that it's not "after you cannot spin the pushrod" - it should be stated "after all freeplay has been eliminated". I can't even begin to tell you how many people that have tightened down the rockers "until they can't spin anymore" because they have bottomed out the lifter, then added another turn on top of that. WAY more common than you would think. The IOEC method Dyno uses is superior to any other, and negates any readjustment afterward. And, yes, with the intake off is much simpler to see.
     
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  5. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    I see your point. Ha, on my first head job many many moons ago. I put new heads on a 305 Chevy. A friend had told me how to set cold lash, but I misheard him, and reversed the directions. Which means I ran the adjustment nuts all the way down, the turned them one turn backward! Live and learn, eh? I suppose I could have said what you recommend, but it didn't occur to me. So I greatly appreciate you giving me the recommended thing to say, as I'm definitely losing an edge to my basic knowledge.
     
  6. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    Well, you already gave the right idea, some people know the right way, others NEED to be told. ;) :eek:
     
  7. Dyno

    Dyno In Fourth Gear

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    Easiest way I found was pedestal mount rockers, thank you Ford. Just bolt it down and go.
    Did the tried and true oily mess and always wanted a better way. Once I got in the right shops learned the other way and ran with it.
     
  8. beerbelly

    beerbelly In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    To avoid the oil mess when doing a running-engine valve adjustment, I cut the tops off a set of used valve covers. If and when I adjust the valves, I loosen the rockers 'til they click, then tighten 'til they stop clicking and add another 1/2 turn.

    20220425_184233.jpg
     
  9. T16592

    T16592 In Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Clean installation :)
     
  10. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    I was always too lazy to do this for Fords, mostly because most modern Fords are pedestal-mount rockers. But if I build any engines that have a need for rocker lash adjustments, I guess I'll have to do that.
     
  11. Boiler92

    Boiler92 In Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Thanks for the replies and tips folks.

    Just took it for a spin around the block, 4 times. 16 more miles on the clock varying the speed and rpms. No issues.

    Only took it up to 60 mph. It handles ok but I'm not trusting in these tires. They look new but I have no idea how old they are. I do know the truck sat for 17 years prior to me buying it. The tires may or may not be that old or older.
     
  12. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    There is a date code on every tire, it's a DOT regulation. If I remember correctly, it's on the same side as the serial number.
     
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  13. beerbelly

    beerbelly In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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  14. Boiler92

    Boiler92 In Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Thanks guys, I'll look for a code.
     
  15. Boiler92

    Boiler92 In Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    I have two possibilities for dating the tires as far as I can tell.

    0824 and 177.

    8th week of 2024. Probably not, lol.

    17th week of 1987 or 1997.
     
  16. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Regardless if they were made in '97, '87 or '77, they should be replaced for the purposes of driving. Those could be used for if the car needs storing, but should not be used for driving, even if they don't show sidewall checking or cracking. Ask me how I know.
     
  17. Boiler92

    Boiler92 In Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Yeah, calling around. Nobody has 205/70R14's in stock. At least not more than 2 of them.
     
  18. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    Have you checked Tirerack.com?
     
  19. Boiler92

    Boiler92 In Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    No. Locals say they can order them. I'm just wanting to get it done so I can more safely put some miles on it.
     
  20. beerbelly

    beerbelly In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Boiler92 likes this.

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