1970 Ranchero build - first ranchero, first restoration

Discussion in 'The Stable' started by 1970Ranchero, Sep 22, 2020.

  1. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Maximum Overdrive

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    On my 69, there two 4 wire connectors that connects to the main harness under the dash, to the left of the steering column, near the side wall. One or two of those wires goes to the sending unit. Mine has two wires.
     

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  2. 1970Ranchero

    1970Ranchero In Second Gear

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    Thanks guys, appreciate it!
     
  3. 1970Ranchero

    1970Ranchero In Second Gear

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    Hey guys - wish I had more updates, but haven't enough time make any noticeable progress.

    1. Having a hell of a time finding an "exact fit" radiator for this car -- have searched all over but cannot find a repro 22 inch radiator for this car. Everywhere only seems to either stock 26 inch. radiators or have aftermarket aluminum ones that don't line up right with the trans cooling lines.
    Does anyone have any suggestions on an affordable radiator that will drop in?

    Pic below for reference - the radiator is a stock 22 inch radiator for a 302 2bbl car. Thanks!!
     

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  4. Jeff B

    Jeff B In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    No real answers but went out and measured my rad and it's 22" as well. I have a 302 with auto trans and factory air. I looked around to all the usual suspects and they are all 26" like you said. When you read the fine print, some suppliers say that the rads they sell have aluminum cores and plastic tanks. Do they really know what they have? Wondering if the 26" is "one size fits most" and you have to make it work. 26" might also be for a big block and maybe more surface is not a bad thing, but you might have to move your mounts to make it work. Do you have a good walk in parts place or radiator shop near you? Might be worth a shot. Good luck.
     
  5. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    If you rad is brass, a radiator shop would be your best bet, as long as it isn't rotted through.
     
  6. 1970Ranchero

    1970Ranchero In Second Gear

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    Thanks Jeff and Andy. My thoughts exactly - I have casted a wide net and everyone seems to stock 26 inch and not 22.

    Andy - I did take it to a radiator place and they wanted $600 to recore it, so it was a tough pill to swallow. Going to keep calling around and see if I can get a better price.

    Has anyone else found an other options that could work?

    Thanks!
     
  7. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    $600 for a recore? Wow. Yeah, keep looking. You may have to drive a 'fur piece' for a much better deal, but if its core is good, a rod-out and resolder shouldn't be more than about $200 at the outside. That should include a preliminary pressure/flow test.
     
  8. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Maximum Overdrive

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    I got the new radiator for my 69, 428CJ/AT, 3 row core, from Concours Parts and Accessories, out of Carson City NV, for less then $500. 800-722-0009
     
  9. 5.0 Chero

    5.0 Chero Bahumbug Staff Member

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    Sorry late to the parade but if you have not gotten the hinges freed up poll them off and soak them in a tub full of straight cleaning vinegar for a couple of days. This will remove the rust from the pivot points. after they free up rinse in a pan of baking soda to neutralize the acid,
     
  10. 1970Ranchero

    1970Ranchero In Second Gear

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    Some more progress on the Ranchero - got the radiator recored for a really fair price (San Jose Radiator for any of you Bay Area members -- definitely recommend them!)

    I also rebuilt the carburetor and reinstalled it, so I am excited to get the Ranchero running!

    Quick question about the carburetor - does any one know what this fitting is for, and if it will affect vacuum if left unplugged? Thanks in advance.
     

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  11. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    That's your dizzy vac advance port. If you don't use it, just cap it. Any port nipple not used should be capped.
     
  12. 1970Ranchero

    1970Ranchero In Second Gear

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    Gotcha, thanks Andy!
     
  13. 1970Ranchero

    1970Ranchero In Second Gear

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    The Ranchero got some new shoes...and more electrical gremlins to follow! I am so close to getting it running if I can just sort out the electrical issues....

    I am a total wiring newbie, so quick question for the group. Here's what's going on:
    • I hook the battery up to the car and the ALT and interior lights automatically light up, even when the key is out of Accessory and "shut off"
    • I turn the key to "Ignition" and right before the starter would theoretically engage (it doesn't now), the ALT light gets brighter, and then there is a "click" and all power is lost (lights go out etc.)
    • If I disconnect and reconnect the battery, power is restored, but the same thing obviously happens when I go start it again.
    I have done a lot of research and still can't track down exactly what it is coming from?

    Bad alternator or wiring to it? Blown fuse (they all seemed intact when I checked)? Bad voltage regulator?

    Any thoughts? Thanks guys!
     

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  14. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    The ALT light is supposed to come on at KOEO (KEY ON ENGINE OFF) along with the OIL light, as a bulb test, but power off during cranking. If it isn't cranking from the key, it sounds like either the switch is misadjusted, or it is worn out. Can you turn the ignition on, then jump-start the engine from the starter solenoid and have the engine running? And if yes, does the ALT light stay on?
     
  15. grebaba

    grebaba In Fourth Gear

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    That is a wierd problem.
    When you connect the battery are you thighting down the battery cable real good and do you have a good ground?
    It kind of sounds like you are not getting a good connection.
    A loose battery cable will cause that problem.
    If that gets the starter to turn over the engine it still might not start but you need to get it to turn over before you can go any futher.
    Greg
     
  16. burninbush

    burninbush In Maximum Overdrive

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    Your problem sounds like a switch-position problem. This is not connected directly to the key, it is a square-ish box that sits on top of the steering column, has a couple screws to adjust it. It is operated by a push-rod operated by the key switch. Maybe somebody will tell you how to adjust it correctly.

    In the meantime -- if you hook a clip-lead from the battery 12v to the side of the coil (not the side that goes to the distributor) -- that is commonly called a hotwire starting circuit. You can then start and run the motor without any key connection. This can be dangerous; make =sure= it's in Park position on the shift lever.
     
  17. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    And don't run it for more than a minute or two, if you have points ignition. It can burn the points and/or the coil.
     
  18. 1970Ranchero

    1970Ranchero In Second Gear

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    Good point on the switch - I am thinking it is either the switch or proper grounding of the cables. I am going to check the connection of the ground to the engine block next. The thought of replacing the switch is terrifying! It's a 70-only part that's not reproduced - hopefully mine is alright.

    I know this might sound basic, but for starting from the starter solenoid - would one of these kits suffice? I have never bypassed the key before...

    Good point on the cables - I thought of that when I was troubleshooting and sure enough they were loose. I retightened them and still no dice.

    Maybe the contacts aren't clean or need to be polished up? I am going to clean them next if they're dirty.

    Thanks. I will be diving into the switch - hopefully I don't have to tear too deep into the column!
     
  19. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    That is a mechanic's remote start switch. You can wire in a momentary-contact pushbutton for about a fifth of that price or less.
     
  20. 1970Ranchero

    1970Ranchero In Second Gear

    Messages:
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    Couple updates...got new exhaust installed on the Ranchero - now I can drive on the street without setting car alarms off haha. The failure to start was diagnosed by a friend to be bad battery cables. Once we recut and mounted the brackets that tighten to the battery, the car started just fine.

    Still working through the ignition switch issue and had a few quick questions I was hoping some of you could help with:
    • Any one have any tips on adjusting the switch? Is it simply a matter loosening the switch and moving it up and down the column until I hit the "sweet spot" where the car will shut off when the key is turned back?
    • I noticed the key cylinder doesn't have any audible "clicks" by either sound of feel, as I turn the key to "ON" and back? Could this be a sign of a faulty cylinder?
    Thanks in advance for the help!
     

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