1972 Wiper governor question

Hello,
I am having problems with my intermittend wiper governor. The damaged part in this governor seems to be the relais, at that time produced by a company called SCHRACK.
They are not doing it anymore and advised me to contact a company called MOUSER, but they do not know anything about this relais.
Has someone ever repaired the governor and can tell me where to get this relais - or a modern part to substitute it ?
Any help would be much appreciated
Thank you,
Ilja

 

That likely was made to Ford's specification, so finding a replacement may be difficult. The 1972 to 1979 governor should have the exact same plugs and should be wired the exact same way; if anyone knows this to be false, please let me know. Anyway, you should be able to obtain another governor unit, even if import duty makes the cost expensive. I have a feeling that relay is just not going to be found with that pin configuration.

 

Thanks for your help.
However, I am sure that my governor is OK in general. It works mostly.But then suddenly the wipers stop or do not go in the park position properly. As the governor is placed under the steering column, I can reach it during driving. Just a little knock at it and it works again. So, if knocking makes it work again, there must be a mechanical part inside.I disassembled it and opened the relais. It is the bimetal in the relais that is sticking. The contact surfaces were a little burned. So I carefully cleaned these using super fine sand paper. The situation is a little better now, but especially under cold weather, the governor fails often. This changes when the car is getting warmer inside. Also a sign , that the bimetal switch is the cause.
My findings about that makes me confident, that the relais is to be blamed.
I don`t dare to buy a governor from another year, as I have found that they are different. Pin style and pin configuration seem to be different on later years than 72.
Getting a 72 governor was hard at the time of the restoration and it seems as if it will be even harder today. When I google for it, I do not find a proper one.

 

Although all wiring passes through the governor I doubt the relay you mention is to blame for the parking issues. The parking function is on a separate circuit. Perhaps removing the parking switch from the wiper motor and cleaning the contacts will fix that issue.
Are you sure it's not a broken wire or something that's causing issues?

 

I had three wiper motors, all of them had been disassembled and restored. All contact surfaces have been cleaned and - if needed - overworked. I am 100% sure that the wiper motors are all working as they should. All of them show the same disfunction in combination with my governor.
So, assuming this, I looked at the governor and blamed it. Next finding was , that when I knock at it, the wipers worked properly again.
So, when knocking at the governor to change its behaviour, it is very likely, that there is a mechanical part that reacts to shaking.
The only mechanical part in the governor is this relais. So, I opend this relais, finding the bimetal. The bimetal had burned contacts , that started to stick together , not opening, unless I knock at it. So, it is very likely, that this tiny bimetal s the cause for the disfunction.
If the wiper motor itself would be the explanation for the disfunction - then why does it work, when I knock at the governor inside the car ? There is no connection between these parts other than electrical wires.
I can check for the cables again, but I doubt that the above mentioned symptoms have anything to do with the disfunction.
The only thincable wiring problem could be a loose contact on the governor plugs or a broken wire inside the governor.
Unfortunately my knowledge about electronics is actually not existing - I am a precision engineer and rather a mechanical guy...

 

I understand what you mean, just saying that I highly doubt the parking switch uses that relay...
What is the part number on the governor?

 

I dont remember the number. The car is currently in the workshop and I have no access to it. But I remember I bought the correct one that time - and it worked properly...for a while

 

Instead of just stating the problem, this thread starts out by assuming that the governor is faulty.

The OP later states "I am sure that my governor is OK in general."

When seeking help, just explain the symptoms. In this case the symptoms are not clearly stated, although improper parking was mentioned.

I would suggest removing the park switch (on the motor), disassembling and cleaning the internal contacts, and reassembling with dielectric grease.

If that does not solve the problem, you will at least have performed some preventative maintenance with minimal cost.

 

One possibility is to remove the part and re-solder the connections. That could solve the problem.

 

The late '90s Explorers with EATC had a problem with the compressor clutch power relay inside the controller, bad solder joints. I've repaired three just by resoldering the pins. So BB's idea might just do it.

 

Check the circuit board the relay is soldered into for a poorly soldered joint on one of the components, or for one of the printed circuit leads being cracked. Burninbush's idea is a good one, but since you removed and reconnected the relay I presume those connections are OK. Also possible the relay coil has a bad connection inside the case or a broken but still touching lead. Had that happen to me on a 4L60 trans relay winding (wouldn't shift to third, needed to go like hell in second and back off the gas to force fourth). Fix was obvious but a pain.

 

True. Bad solder job in all but one Town Car EATC I have owned taught me how to spot those weak joints. Very worth investigating.

 

Thank you for the help,
checking the solder joints is a good idea, although I already did it two years ago, when soldering out the relais. Meanwhile, I investigated about the relais, made by SCHRACK. They handed me over to MOUSER and their reply was :
Dear Mr. Grum, thank you for your request reg. Relay RU 101900.
please see reply from supplier: The Schrack RU series has long been Obsoleted, since 1991. There will be nothing with a similar PCB foot print.See data sheet attached, maybe you can find something electrically similar. Now I notice this RU 101900 number is not on the how to build a part number, so it also was probably special for a specific customer application.
SCHACK also investigated a bit and sent me a reply, giving me some links:
http://site1377788547.tempsite.ws/pagina_fotos.php?f=21
RU101900 - Supplier - Call 516-809-7960 (findcomponents.net)
PENG BI DA ELECTRONICS LTD, RM 2805 HANGYUAN BUILDING,, SHENZHEN, GUANGDONG, CHINA, 518031 (hobid.com)
However, these links seem to be strange.........
Just a minute ago, I got a newsletter from AutoKrafters, promoting a special sale on this part:
https://www.autokrafters.com/p-2441...50-f250-f350-1978-79-bronco-d8tz-17c476a.aspx
However, this part is for later models than my 72` Chero. If this is just because of the blade type plugs ( 72`have pins ) or if it doesn`t fit for other reasons is unknown to me. Their listing shows fitment for Broncos, F100 , 150 , 250, 350`s trucks. The only reason of a non- fitment I can imagine is that the listed cars do not have a park position. I do not know these cars. Does anyone know about that ?
I would dare to buy this part, if its just about the wrong blade type connectors - 99,-$ is a steel...
Ilja

 

Thinking they may all function identically. Took the switch and box from a 1974 Mercury Cougar that had the blade connectors then used it in a 1973 F-250. Acquired a 1979 F-350 to which I transfered the switch and box into. Neither truck had the wiper blade park position like the Cougar but the truck wipers always stopped in their normal down position. This leads me to believe that the park position in the car wiper motors is a function separate from the control box, park position controled solely by the switch in the plastic cover on the wiper motor.

 

That looks promising,
thank you

 

That is correct. The basic circuit architecture of the wiper switch, delay interval box and wiper motor connections are basically the same; the park function itself is built into the motors for the cars that use the park function. Found that out the hard way.

 

So, I think a newer control box will work, the wire colors, if I remember correctly, I verified were the same, although the connector pins were blades on the 1980s trucks, and cylindrical on the '70s cars/trucks.

 

I found it odd that round or blade terminals could be found in identical cars of the same model and year in the early 70's. I have two 1972 Marquis Brougham's, one has blade terminals and the other has round terminals. Same thing on 1972 LTD Broughams. Both cars were optioned identicaly but built in different factorys. Seems like a lot of trouble to build different wire harnesses terminated differently that serve the same function. Then I remembered it is Ford we are talking about so who knows the logic behind this ?

 

I was working on Joe's CP, in the driver's door to solve power window and electric door lock problems. Never mind that the window regulator looks like it was designed by Rube Goldberg, the door lock motors of a '73 are not the same as a '71 or a '78 full size. So I wasn't able to replace the nearly-seized motor; I had to work in some PB and grease to make it work better.

 

Its been a while ago, but I would like to tell you, that it was the RELAY in the Windshield wiper governor. I could fix the problem , using a use intermittant wiper governor from a Ford F150 from the 1970`s. Opened it up and welded the relais out. After I welded it on my original electronic board, the wipers worked immediately as they should.
This was a three years journey........
Thanks for your help
Ilja