I think I've already replaced the headlight switch. The dash lights I'm sure aren't working because of rust and fuse connections. Hoping, but doubting, that my 1978 Chilton's manual has a wiring diagram.
K, so the headlight issue was actually the hi-beam switch. It'll turn on the high-beams, and transition to lo-beams, but it won't always hold the lo-beams on, so I gotta finagle it. Next up, tuning!
Yeah, if it's rusted up, it'll trip the CB in the switch. BTW, did you put an ad in the local C/L for a Ranchero bench seat? The location given is out on the Tulalip Res. I thought it might be you, as the ad specified a '78 Chero.
Nope, wasn't me. I'm on the other side of the valley. I plan on reupholstering the bench in canvas at some point, though the frame needs lots of work, especially since it still doesn't really latch on the passenger side. I'm tempted, whenever I actually finish the new gauge cluster, to install a hi-beam switch in the dash, alongside the driving/fog light switches. Not a huge fan of the floor switches.
Ditched the 4160 in favor of a 650 cfm double pumper. This will actually be workable for the future turbocharging! This carb actually has a PCV hose port on it, and there's no need to do a whole bunch of work to it, plugging old holes and drilling new ones. It's almost fully adjustable, with screw-in idle feed restrictors and emulsion jets, but the power valve channel restrictors are just drilled-out holes. I may thread them for screw-in restrictors at some point, or I could steal back the metering block from the 4160, which does have screw-in pvcrs. Did some quick tuning last night, and it drove pretty good! I'll have to steal the O2 sensor from my Mustang and install it on the Beast to really dial it in, but first, I wanna get going on my gauge cluster.
Is your coil fender-mounted? I've been considering that, as I have an extension pigtail somewhere from an Econoline, and was considering doing that to get it off the hot engine.
Yep, just have a generic bracket bolted to the inner fender. I much prefer it there, and have a similar mounting on my Mustang. The transmission shifts pretty great now, except OD now has a different problem. Even though it shifts nice and firm, the shift doesn't happen until about 70 mph. As you can imagine, this can be a bit of a problem. Cruising at 65 with 3.73 gears and 25" tall tires makes for lots of noise and fuel consumption. Best I can figure is there's a stuck valve somewhere that's locking it into full-throttle shifts. I really don't wanna take the pan off again if I don't have to, but I don't know what else could cause it. And yes, the TV cable is adjusted right. Maybe I should start looking into a 4-speed swap.
I have. Many times. With just how much AOD TV cable adjustment is beaten into my head all the time, it was 1st, 2nd, and 3rd thing on my list of things to check. There's slack in the cable at idle, so there should be no TV action when I'm off the throttle. And yet, off the throttle even at 65 does nothing. With even MORE slack in the cable, nothing. I can't get any less TV cable action than zero. If anything, I'd say the problem is a stuck 3-4 shift valve. Hopefully it'll jostle itself loose, because I really don't wanna pull the pan for the 4th or 5th time.
There is a tool Ford uses to mechanically set the adjustment. But, I have a feeling the output speed has a hand in it, and the 3-4 valve isn't stuck, it just won't actuate until that higher speed.
Yesterday on the way home from work, it managed to shift into overdrive around 60mph. I might back off the TV cable a bit to see what happens, but the previous attempts had no effect. It feels like it thinks the throttle is near full, so maybe the 3-4 TV modulator valve is stuck, while the 3-4 shift valve is free to move. It's possible that I lost a check ball last time I had it out, or that I over-torqued or incorrectly torqued the valve body, flexing the bore and binding a valve, too, I suppose. https://www.2carpros.com/images/question_images/3120/original.gif
I know that on WOT, the trans downshifts to direct, and stays there until you exceed a certain speed at WOT. Oh, you hit the nail on the head as to why I don't touch automatics for anything beyond R&R, fluid/filter, etc. I'm always uncertain my memory or just plain brains are gonna fail me, and I'll forget/miss a check ball, cotter pin, you know, something small and easy to miss.
IIRC the AOD won't go into OD when you are off throttle. From the sound of it, your tranny is shifting mostly on the governor, as it would with the TV disconnected or pinned full on. Get a pressure gauge and adjust the cable for the proper closed throttle pressure. I suspect the tranny will act a whole lot more like you want it to.
I actually remember the spec for that. Line pressure at idle, trans in N, is 34 PSI, and if properly working, increases 1 PSI on engagement of D.
I think it's 35 psi, with a .312" spacer inserted between the ferrule and the plastic bit. I did have a gauge on it, but it was leaking a whole bunch and spraying all over the exhaust. I'll see if I can get it to seal. Mostly, I just hate getting under the car and dealing with fluids.
Yeah, the gauge, that was what I couldn't remember, was the gauge. I made one once, used it once, a loooong time ago, and have never found it after that, when I needed it for my bro Geoff's Town Car.
