1978 Mad Max build: Beast of Burden

Discussion in 'The Stable' started by paul289, Jun 28, 2016.

  1. 72GTVA

    72GTVA Administrator Staff Member

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    Yes, there are some minor differences in some arrangements - '72-'73 have a different brake booster mounting arrangement (studs through firewall different pattern) than '74-76, and evidently '77-'79 (Begs a question, wonder if they went back to the '72-'73 offset stud arrangement in '77-'79???). But the more you disassemble the parts groups such as the pedal assembly the more commonality across the years is encountered.
     
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  2. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Oh. I missed the "twin turbo" part. You'd want a Doug Nash or a World-Class T-5, then, as a ZF requires cutting out and redoing the trans hump to accommodate it.
     
  3. paul289

    paul289 In Third Gear

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    246
    Location:
    Marysville, WA
    I'm totally fine with cutting the transmission hump if it comes down to it.

    So for some reason, the transmission isn't building pressure like it should. I have a gauge hooked up to the TV port, and it only builds 10 psi at full load.

    I'm REALLY tempted to just get a gasket set for the old FMX and toss that back in. Only issue is that I had to shorten the driveshaft about an inch and a half to fit the AOD, and I had to change the cooler lines as well.
     
  4. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    I assume you made a TV valve adjustment, correct? The line pressure at warm idle should be 34 PSI in N, and gain 1 PSI upon gear engagement, when the TV valve is at the correct setting.
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2019
  5. paul289

    paul289 In Third Gear

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    Location:
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    That's with the gauge tool in place, right?
     
  6. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    The gauge tool is like the matchbook cover when setting points: just there long enough for you to lock it down. Then after removing it, running adjustments are made. Same with the TV cable: use the gauge tool to make the initial setting, then remove it, and make further adjustments with the engine running.
     
  7. paul289

    paul289 In Third Gear

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    246
    Location:
    Marysville, WA
    Transmission is back out, and I think I made a new personal best at 1 hour 50 minutes from jack under the car to transmission on the ground. Tomorrow, teardown begins.
     
  8. paul289

    paul289 In Third Gear

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    246
    Location:
    Marysville, WA
    Turns out I forgot a steel in the reverse clutch. Oops. The reverse band looked to be in position where it needed to be. Still not totally sure where the brass shavings are coming from. A coworker suggested that there may be a bunch of metal (probably from the direct drum) in the torque converter that's flushing out. If I can't find any worn bushings, then I'll just put an inline filter in the trans cooler circuit.
     
  9. paul289

    paul289 In Third Gear

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    246
    Location:
    Marysville, WA
    Found the worn bushings. Both were in the planetary and sun gear set and ride on the direct drive pilot shaft. Looked to have been caused by a plugged passage. I'll be sure to thoroughly coat it in grease to keep it lubed until the fluid gets to it. Got some new ones on the way, and hopefully I'll have it all back together and running by next week!
     
  10. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Awesome! It's not good to have a blocked passage, though. Any work to remedy any 'clots?'
     
  11. paul289

    paul289 In Third Gear

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    246
    Location:
    Marysville, WA
    Just blasted it out with compressed air. I'll triple check all the passages to be sure that there's nothing there, and also look for any other possible issues.
     
  12. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Last time i saw someone 'blast out a passage' in a trans case, my first boss Mike applied air to the rear drum (on a C6?), which shot out with a POP that startled me!
     
  13. paul289

    paul289 In Third Gear

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    Location:
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    Lol, I used lower pressure to test the drums themselves.

    Trans reassembly has begun, and I'm on track to have it back on the road by Saturday! Could be the first time I've had a transmission in it that actually works and doesn't leak! Especially exciting when having a motor that actually runs and runs well! Hopefully I can also find out why the gauges are all reading zero. I suspect it may be a bulkhead connector, since the voltmeter works, and I'm pretty sure the gauge signal wires don't go through the ignition switch or the fuse block.
     
  14. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    No, they don't, but they are powered off the 5V instrument voltage regulator (IVR), of course. You should at least check the connector on the cluster, and if it is snug, but still no gauges, then you should look at the IVR. If you suspect the IVR, I have a spare.
     
  15. paul289

    paul289 In Third Gear

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    246
    Location:
    Marysville, WA
    Somehow, the temp sender lead became disconnected from the sender, and it appears that I forgot to swap out the oil pressure switch for the pressure sender. And the gas tank was empty, as I ran out of gas testing on Saturday.

    Speaking of testing: Still no reverse. Slow engagement into D and OD, with slow creeping, but L seems to engage more quickly and moves it out of the garage much faster. No road testing as yet due to the aforementioned lack of gas. So, what could it be? I don't think it's the low-reverse band, but I need to road test to determine whether that's the case. Or maybe I could put it on jackstands and see how well wheel speed tracks with RPMs. There's only one valve that controls reverse, it seems, and that's the manual shift valve, so I'm pretty sure it's not that, since everything else works. I remember air testing the reverse and forward clutches on the front pump hub and not having any issues, so I don't think that's the issue (Though reconsidering, I don't remember the reverse clutch actually applying with air, but I had chalked that up to a belleville spring having too much load for the 100psi air compressor to overcome). On the Baumann Controls website, there's mention of a check ball in the reverse clutch piston, but it seems odd that there'd be a check ball inside the piston. The reverse drum is a new-to-me part, so it's possible that it wasn't properly assembled, and I didn't disassemble it or inspect its components (I don't have the piston seal install tool, and didn't want to risk damaging the seals).

    TL;DR: Either for some reason the low-reverse band isn't engaging, or whoever I got the new reverse drum from didn't assemble it correctly and left out a check ball, so I gotta pull the trans yet again.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2019
  16. paul289

    paul289 In Third Gear

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    246
    Location:
    Marysville, WA
    But at least now I have new rear shocks to round out the whole set, so I got that going for me, which is nice.

    So Saturday, I'm gonna be test-driving the Beast, just to see if it's engine braking, and to clean up a bit of a trans fluid spill from last weekend's test, then the transmission will come back out.

    I just want to drive it and concentrate on the more fun upgrades, like tube bumpers and building a twin turbo setup. And also get my Mustang going again.
     
  17. HuevosRanchero

    HuevosRanchero In Maximum Overdrive

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    gunga galunga
     
  18. paul289

    paul289 In Third Gear

    Messages:
    246
    Location:
    Marysville, WA
    Hmm, I think there might be something missing from this reverse clutch apply piston. And found more metal in the fluid, but didn't find any worn bushings, so I think it's all collected in the torque converter. Gonna have to flush it out, and hopefully my ghetto filtration rig does the trick.
     

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  19. paul289

    paul289 In Third Gear

    Messages:
    246
    Location:
    Marysville, WA
    Decided to just buy a new torque converter. Stock stall probably won't be enough for much of a performance application, so I went with a 2,000rpm stall B&M torque converter, which will do well enough. Should hopefully have it all back together before the weekend!
     
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  20. paul289

    paul289 In Third Gear

    Messages:
    246
    Location:
    Marysville, WA
    Bout ready to push this thing in front of a dump truck. Now it won't even ROLL backwards! I can't even tell if it's engaging reverse because everything is completely locked up. I think the reverse drum's one way clutch is locked, because I remember having some trouble getting the intermediate clutches (that go between the case and the one way clutch) to seat, so I'm curious if I just smack the transmission case a few times, maybe it'll work? I really don't want to have to pull the transmission back out again, for the fourth time.
     

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