Discussion in 'Ranchero Tech Help' started by 351Montez, Mar 23, 2018.
Hello, New Member Here. I have a complete 1979 brougham That I am parting out. It has a Good running 351m/400 engine in it. I live in Sacramento, California. All of the California smog stuff is still on it. I can send picture of the engine if it will help the member with the vacuum hose routing issue. Let me know. (916) 548-8158, Greg.
Damn that's what I was thinking also, I have been wanting to swap in a comp cams set in anyways
I'm hoping the cam shaft is ok?? Haven't been able to swap out the new fuel pump yet but for Sure Monday, I'm hoping to see some score marks on the old pump handle..
If it doesn't fire up then on to the timing cover to see what's going on And then I might just remove the carb intake and valley pan to see if any stuck or clogged valves? I did do the repair hastily that Saturday after it blew and died because it was my daily at the time, ended up having to slap a distributor on my MX6 and use that
I remember we noticed(ASEmechanic friend) a couple of the valve rods on the drivers rear were slightly bowed, may look into swapping those as well
Ill keep digging and respond when I find the issue, may just run a full diagnostic on her, compression, spark, fuel pressure Definitely update the vacuum routing
Ive also heard that the shaft that goes into the bottom of the distributor can shear? that possible? because I did replace the disty New a couple months before the incident occurred and it was a BIT** to sit right tooth, one of the Few times I ended up towing to the shop to knock it out for me as I didn't have the time to, it ran ok until....
Ill try that tomorrow also sir!
Also I JUST fully rebuilt the carb, not even getting fuel to the clear filter between the pump and carb, I have poured some fuel directly into the carb it does fire up barely run for few seconds dies, Even before I took the carb off I tested it with starter fluid and same thing fired up couple seconds die..
Now I have more time I'm getting back to auto mechanics again been a while but should find the issue soon with enough troubleshooting
Anything is possible, but a failure like that is usually the pin that holds the gear on. If it shears, best to just toss the dizzy as the interference fit on the gear will be gone.
Having the dizzy be a little difficult to seat is a good thing. If it just drops in wherever you put it, the oil pump is likely shot.
Thanks good to know, that's a plus cause the odo only says 59200+ miles but have doubts because when I first seen the motor it never had Any stickers what so ever and the block and covers looked cheaply painted? could have been original??(I cleaned and repainted the intake housing, covers and upper intake nutn fancy(yet)) like I said the old man had it many years before my dad got it and he just cruised it around also..
shot ya a text with a pic of engine bay Really hope we have similar set-ups!
she's running 3 ported vacuum switches 1 Green and 1 Brown from the Water Outlet and 1 small Blue one under the Dist Vacuum Adv, has EGR at rear of Carb, 'Smog' Pump under the Alt, Carbon Can on the fender under the Battery, AIR Pump above the Alt, a Black Can on the driver fender with line going to the rear somewhere into the fender??
The black can is just a vacuum reservoir (I assume yours came with A/C, because that's what the can is for), and should be plumbed in to intake vacuum, and I think there's a one-way valve on older cars. Of the PV switches, the green is for dizzy vacuum, where the lead to the advance vacuum can comes off the center port, and, IIRC, manifold vac goes to the bottom port, and off-idle vacuum goes to the top It allows manifold vacuum when cold but off-idle vacuum when hot. I think the blue one is for the EGR, but the brown one, I think it controls the Thermactor, where the airstream goes when the engine's cold, then hot, but it's been so long, I just cannot remember. The Thermactor dump valve, IIRC, goes to manifold vacuum, but I could be wrong. The placement of these items does cover all fifty states, but how they're worked (calibrated) on California cars is what makes the actual difference.
Yes A/C, thanks for the info input. It was running ok before she broke down, now the main issue is getting her started and stay running
So I think I’m just going to go ahead and swap out timing chain set! It’s gotta be original and I looked into it a few years back before she died, Any recommendations on Where to buy? Good/bad production brands? Any sets help unlock lil more performance(factory retard)? I’m ready to order today starting quick research I usually hit up AZ or Orielly for quick local or Rockauto or Amazon online order, used to get the parts catalogs from NPD, Dearborn, summit... in the garage some where
If you want longevity, I suggest any of the big names, Cloyes, Sealed Power, etc., and if you decide to ramp up the power, now's the time to make it a true dual roller set for extra strength. You should also closely inspect the cam plate and cam for excessive inner face wear and end play, as a cam replacement would be warranted when you have everything apart, including the radiator and A/C condenser for a cam change.
Yup what I was looking at on Rockauto. What ya think about Comp Cam or Edelbrock? I would love to do a cam swap but if I do what else $$ is needed? I’ll have to do more research on the internals I’m not very familiar with specifics Yet! I’m not looking to make it a muscle car Just yet I would just like to free up a few more ponies for outdoor activities/camping trips
Hey side question? How do you like Washington Everett area? Lol we are looking to buy near more forest/mountains in another year started researching that now too, have a cousin in CO but the areas we want $$$
Do a compression and oil pressure test before putting much money into the engine. No point in installing a fancy roof if the foundation is failing.
Ribald's got a point. You can test compression after temporarily attaching the new timing set, then you can remove the dizzy and use a 5/16" deep socket on a long extension, and attached to a 1/2" drill. Measure at the oil filter then on the top rear; a reduction of 25% or more means too large a loss somewhere, and pressure over 30 PSI cold will give you absolute minimum hot pressure up top.
Andy, his engine runs, he can rent or borrow a good gauge and test it.
Cold oil pressures and unloaded pressures don't really mean a lot. If you don't have 30PSI at 3000RPM hot the engine has a limited life ahead.
True that! I’m pretty sure its solid but won’t know til test, I’ll pick up compression kit after dinner for tomorrow!
I was under the impression the engine had already died and wouldn't restart. You can get some interpretation about oil pressure on a cold engine, but admittedly, you take it with a grain of salt; if your cold pressure's 15 PSI, it's a good bet high-RPM pressure and volume won't be good enough.
Separate names with a comma.