1979 Ranchero GT 351M California emission vacuum hose routing HELP

Discussion in 'Ranchero Tech Help' started by 351Montez, Mar 23, 2018.

  1. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    That is true. However, on an older engine bearings can 'bottom' when an engine sits, effectively doubling clearances causing a false low reading when just running the pump without the engine turning. Also a group of lifters can be sitting in the open position bleeding oil off onto the top end. As a result oil pressure readings can be different depending on how the engine is clocked.
     
  2. 351Montez

    351Montez In Second Gear

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    correct Andy, it cranks over and over just fine #1 issue now is NO FUEL TO CARB #2 when it does fire up (after I pour gas directly) runs ROUGH stalls out(new Disty, filters, pump, egr and all ignition system before incident, replaced valley pan and VC gaskets, rebuilt carb, new battery and replaced handful rotted hoses after) #3 vacuum hose routing needs reset/clean up
     
  3. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    So here is what the one-way valve looks like:

    IMG_20180329_142901555 (640x360).jpg

    The center hose is the vacuum source, the lower hose goes to the A/C controls, the upper one goes around the back and side of the engine compartment to the vacuum can.
     
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  4. 351Montez

    351Montez In Second Gear

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    Hooked up a Compression Gauge to the cylinders, 1st run ran through bank 1 then 2 then ran it through again Dry.
    I was mainly concerned that the motor was no Bueno since I never got around to checking out full diagnostic the last 4 years Ive had her, just repaired what was needed
    But since the #s are pretty even across and within Good psi range Id think its safe to go ahead and begin tearing down to the timing set and inspect.. Thoughts?
    No I didn't run it again Wet because I took my time to make sure all was correct for most accurate readings and was pretty impressed with the psi range,, assuming that a healthy 351M engine runs @115-130psi range? could be mistaken? (tired long day and week)

    120psi was the average, cylinder 3 maxing @118 and cyl 8 jumping to 128psi
    the leak down I noted was count down(seconds) as psi dropped to 0 depressing the relief button
     

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    Last edited: Mar 31, 2018
  5. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Low, but OK. Could be late valve timing due to a worn timing chain, but you are correcting that anyway.
     
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  6. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Yeah. I'd put the new chain on, then run the dry test again.
     
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  7. burninbush

    burninbush In Maximum Overdrive

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    Just to get me up to speed here, what's the theory behind running a dry compression test? Seems like it would just give you a bunch of questionable readings.
     
  8. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    The wet test (inserting oil in the cylinder prior to the test) is only used to determine if a low compression problem is caused by valves or rings. The actual compression reading from a wet test is meaningless as the engine operates in the dry test condition when running unless it has very worn valve guides.
     
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  9. 351Montez

    351Montez In Second Gear

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    Yup going to order new timing set Monday!
     
  10. 351Montez

    351Montez In Second Gear

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    Not sure exactly what happened to her she was running Great the first couple year had her, was replacing almost All external parts under the hood, one Friday after work fired up to go home and POP backfire from motor, fired it up again and ran rough and the closer I got to home the worse she got stalling out a couple times until I barely pulled in the garage and that was it she wouldn’t crank over and run unless I put my foot in the throttle after the repairs I did Now she won’t even get a fuel to the carb, strong crank no start..? Been sitting 2 1/2 yrs in back burner now I’m back to diagnostics
     
  11. beerbelly

    beerbelly In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    I'm pretty sure popping from the engine will be a timing or ignition issue. The timing set would be a great place to start.
     
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  12. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    That's a jumped chain, one tooth. The same thing happened on the '77 Granada I had years ago. My '74 Ranchero, when the chain jumped, it jumped two teeth, renderi g it inoperable and had to be towed to the shop. Funny thing was, I was on the clock when it happened. But, my boss did pay the tow bill, which I greatly appreciated.
     
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  13. 351Montez

    351Montez In Second Gear

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    Thank You All for the input, I'm enjoying using the Forums, should have joined a Lot sooner but I was always so busy I never had time to get around to it, I would just Google what information I needed and back to work! lol
    I'm excited to get some tools in my hands and under these hoods again to knock out All the required maintenance that's been put off past few years, now I currently have some time off for a few weeks I'm ready to get this Ranchero running again, Bronco Tuned-Up and begin reassembling my wife's 66 Mustang to get her fired up and rolling around again after 15yrs sitting in West Covina @dads(but she don't want me touching it!) lol BUT what she doesn't know wont hurt her ;) easy since she works 50hrs week, I'm just going to get it to running condition(engine,brakes,suspension) leave her the rest of the assembly :D
    Someone recommend a Cloyes double roller nylon coated chains compared to Edlebrocks.. and to set the timing straight up to 0 degree to free up Some HP because Factory is set 4 degree retarded.. Any truth?
    Browsing online....
     
  14. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Unless you degree the cam and know what you are trying to accomplish, the timing should be set straight up.
    As any advance or retard is ground into the cam, setting it straight up will be the factory setting if a factory cam.
    Also, with some exceptions, advancing the cam does not create more power, it just moves the peak power into lower RPM ranges. as this reduces high RPM power it actually tends to reduce peak horsepower.
     
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  15. RAGNAR

    RAGNAR In Second Gear

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  16. RAGNAR

    RAGNAR In Second Gear

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    Happen to have any parts still available?
     
  17. 72GTVA

    72GTVA Administrator Staff Member

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    You may need to call the original poster at the number he provided and ask - he hasn't been on the site since May 2018.

    What are you looking for?
     
  18. RAGNAR

    RAGNAR In Second Gear

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    I live close to Sacramento and am looking for a few parts for my 79 500 possible seat change. Interior parts, front turn signal lenses, LT tail lamp outer frame, and whatever else I may decide
     
  19. Freestyle Don

    Freestyle Don In Third Gear BRONZE MEMBER

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    I have a few `79 parts. Soon as you`decide`,let me know & I`ll have a look.
     
  20. RAGNAR

    RAGNAR In Second Gear

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    Okay well like I said my front park/turn lens need replaced(rt has micro cracks in it, Lt is straight broken)Also need the lt tail lamp outer chrome(my is broken, the rest of the lamp is okay) I have been looking into possibly changing to a split bench or gt buckets(If i did go with buckets I would also like to know what options for consoles are)
     

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