Checked the vacuum reservoir - holds a vacuum just fine and check valve works correctly. However, the cab side system will not hold a vacuum, sigh.
Actually, it isn't supposed to hold a vacuum. But, it also isn't supposed to lose a lot of vacuum. Have you done any under dash work, such as a heater core?
All Fords default to the defrost position under a no vacuum condition. Likely suspect is the red hard plastic line between the intake manifold and the check valve. Cousin came by yesterday singing the blues because his F-150 a/c quit blowing out the dash vents. A quick look found the red line almost cracked into at the nipple on the intake manifold. Cut the hard red line with a knife right at the rubber nipple connector then poked the broken stub out of the rubber connector. There was enough slack in the red pipe to poke it into the rubber connector and reconnect it to the intake manifold nipple. Result is a smiling cousin who now has a/c blowing out the correct vents. Engine heat made the end of the red hardline brittle, easy fix.
Clark, there is a soft rubber multi-line connector located at the rear of the heat/ a/c control. It is very possible it could be dislodged just enough to cause that vacuum leak.
When I do that repair, because there's no longer a baby on the line, I use yellow monkey snot, carefully applied to the nylon line then inserted in order to hold it. I have had them slip out.
Yes, those hard nylon vacuum lines don't look so good. The line from the intake manifold to the reservoir has been cut and patched. I have ordered a replacement "vacuum harness" as it is called which may or may not fix the cab side vacuum leak.
You have to start somewhere, and it (pardon the pun) sucks to have to do multiple diagnoses and repairs to fix one symptom.
Think this is video,lots of them on the tube Jeff. THE BEST SMOKE TESTER YOU CAN BUILD!! / THE MR. FUSION MINI BUILD - Bing video
Thank you sir! Have used one at work and it helps a bunch finding buried problems. For sure worth having.
Watched the video. Easy enough to build. When using though, the smoker must be pressurized but I don't see how that was done. Would have to be a low pressure air supply.
The commercial smoke units at my last two jobs used shop air through a special regulator. But I bet you could use a valve, a storage tank and a 12 volt tire pump. Pump up the tank, then crack the valve till you get a stream out the hose, then plug it in. Make sure you stuff rags into the throttle body as snugly as possible, including the IAC bypass outside of the throttle plate. Then pull the PCV so you can see the end of the valve. If smoke comes out, the valve needs replacement. But, you can still have other leaks, so tape off the valve's bottom.