Discussion in 'The Stable' started by Dyno, Jun 20, 2017.
Link to you tube video of Fe reunion 32 minutes long.
Excellent vid! There were some real go-getters out there on the field. Luckily, the driver of the Fox Mustang caught himself before he could dump his car over the track, otherwise, some safe racing. Sooooo...which one was yours?
Thanks for posting this. Loved the '64 Thunderbolts.
Yes, a very nice cacklefest. Since it was an "FE" reunion, were there also cars that were full restorations, whether they raced or not?
Very Nice Dyno... thanks for sharing
Don't have my car together, actually removing drive train and getting her ready to go for paint. Tight in the engine bay.
Glad you guys like the video , yes there was a small car show going on and they could make a pass if so desired. The reunion happens about 3 hours from where I live first I knew about it. Wish it wouldn't have rained was only there a few hours and part of that was staying dry in truck.
Was going thru some boxes of stuff that came with my car last year when I bought it found some neat vintage stuff. Have to get a pic of under dash A/c unit old Ford part I'm not going to use it.
I'm sure someone will pay some bucks for the mechanical regulator...that looks like it could be rescued, just for its looks.
Andy I will keep the regulator as I believe it would be original to this car. Was a pleasant surprise though. Have quite a few parts that are original for car and anything I pull will be kept just in case I should choose to go the original route at a later date. Rebuilt the service replacement Holley that came with car it ran cleaner and smoother than 750 Holley that was on car. Go figure !
Because it's jetted for the cam? Most people wouldn't put their carb through a rebuild, but just wanted a quick replacement, back when I worked in a shop that specialized in carb rebuilding. Randy is still quite knowledgeable, although long retired, and he knew all the little repairs some needed (disassembling one-barrel, anyone?) to the tricks that made carb designs work better, but one philosophy he always had, was that in nearly all cases, the factory carb was better because it was engineered to go with the engine. So you keep that factory bubble machine, it'll keep you good with good maintenance.
Don't mind rebuilding and tuning a carb . Enjoy getting them tuned right.
Will get back to the 750 at some point . Have to go thru and figure out what someone did to it. Like the challenge of figuring the stuff out.
I think, if it's correctly assembled, it just needs a jetting, assuming the CFM is the same as the factory carb's.
Question Dyno... is your factory carb a true 750? I thought mine was a 750, but it is actual a 735, according to the book my rebuild guy used. Which is supposedly why they are so sought after, and hard to find.
Factory would be the 735 vac secondaries. Service replacement supposedly 700 vac. Wouldn't say hard to find a 735 just hard to find reasonable price.
The funny part would be Shelby used a 780 on 289's.
I started with 750 vac #3310 usually they are no problem simple tune. Keep in mind changed intake gaskets and longer push rods. Intake gaskets were fel pro see people on fe forum having issues with them sealing, get soaked with oil and not sealing. Mine looked like good seal , but who knows for sure.
Push rods have a smaller affect but the ones in were adjusted all the way down, never a good thing. Problems you don't get full action at valve from cam, think of it as a lever. The other issues are geometry is wrong applies side pressure to valve wearing guides out fast, these are the simple things that happen.
Picture shows how adjusters are all way down, adjustable valve train , hydraulic cam.
The way I was taught, the correct pushrod length is supposed to hold good valvetrain geometry at 1/3rd to 1/2 of the adjuster's thread length, at least on a solid tappet cam. If that's a hydraulic one, someone's not checking lash with the engine running.
The only way I know of that always gets push rod length correct is to use check springs, a felt pen, and an adjustable push rod.
Pushrod length won't change how far the valve opens, but improper length will create excess friction and guide wear.
With a shaft rocker system the rocker geometry can only be changed by changing the height of the shaft itself, raising it (shims) or lowering it (cutting bosses on heads or rocker stands). Pushrod length cannot change geometry with shafts.
That is true with all rocker setups.
Rocker pivot height sets valve geometry, and pushrod length sets lash.
Setting pivot height based on an improperly sized pushrod yields incorrect geometry on any system also.
Back from Vakay.
Yes length for center of valve, shafts are a pivot point.
As for effects don't take my word check with Comp cams Billy Godbold has done some excellent write ups explaining the issues.
Pulled engine and trans today. Pics of Vin stamp on trans and Eng. Now to get shell to body shop.
It's good to see they match (especially if they match the car!). That is seriously one of the nicest FE's I've ever seen, along with Pony Express Rider's.
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