71 Door Adjustment Woes

Discussion in 'Ranchero Tech Help' started by Basstrix, Nov 6, 2016.

  1. Basstrix

    Basstrix In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    I'm going through door adjustment on my 71. I've come with the best adjustment I'm capable of and looking for input from our experts that might improve the situation. In general, all except the lower right corner are acceptable. The lower right has issues with both the rocker and the best I can do with the fender. Please take a look at the diagram and let me know your thoughts on correcting the situation.

    The blue tape is a MAJOR screw up from the first time I tried to adjust....door moved way farther than I thought and the door touched the fender...paint chipped badly....looking for a fix that doesn't include a new paint job lol.

    2016-11-06 09_31_43-Microsoft Office 2010.jpg
     
  2. burninbush

    burninbush In Maximum Overdrive

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    Good luck with your adjustments. My personal feeling is that some adjustments were wrong when they came out of the factory; example being how the hood lines match with the fenders at the front corners**. If some expert appears I'll be next in line for advice re how to adjust the front bumper. I have very similar front fender vs door problems.

    ** I have a dozen pics here of show cars that show the mismatch -- welcome to Detroit built cars.
     
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  3. TestDummy

    TestDummy In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    That's as good as factory parts will get, I bet. I've seen vehicles that have never been touched after leaving the factory with worse alignment. And that holds true with todays vehicles. If you want perfect gap, all around, you need filler and welding wire. That's how the super show cars get it done.
     
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  4. Huevos

    Huevos In Maximum Overdrive

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    You will need a special wrench, Check out this video.
    I can lend you one if you want..


    Also, check your Door hinge pins for slop..
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2016
  5. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

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    Not a bit of humor there. Next step would be opening "Slotting" the fender bolt holes enough so you could move the fenders forward a tiny bit. Sean and BB are correct about the horrid fit of Detroit iron body panels. Think our rides are bad ? Check out GM rides for an eye opener. Not uncommon to find an inch stack of shims between the fender and cowl on even the big Cadillacs in the 80's. I love to find one of those then rob all the shims I can find instead of having to buy them new.
     
  6. Basstrix

    Basstrix In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    Thanks for the offer on the wrench. On my first try at adjusting, I loosened the fender up and that's when I chipped the paint...for the 2nd round, I pulled the front end and fender. I'm headed out in a bit to work on the drivers side and will also pull the fender for that one.
     
  7. Basstrix

    Basstrix In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    I thought about tweaking the fender a bit...it needs to come outward with the apex of the bend at about the lower 1/3rd of the fender. I'm scared the paint will crack, so I'm not going to try it. Opening up the slots is an idea...I'll check to see if that will buy me anything.
     
  8. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Another issue is that bodywork will streach or shrink panels unevenly.
    All too often a fender or panel gets worked without the door in place and shut. That results in expecting door adjustment to fix incorrect streaching or shrinking.
    When I do bodywork, I set the door first.
    That way panels can be streached or shrunk as needed to bring things together.
    Once the paint goes on, the chance to do it right is long gone.
     
  9. Basstrix

    Basstrix In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    At this point, I have both doors adjusted to be, what I believe is, as good as they're going to get. They're not bad, but far from perfect. On the drivers side, I found the upper hinge bushings were shot and the hinge pin was bent. I rebuilt both hinges. I found that Dorman makes compatible kits intended for GM products. I also found that one hole on the nut plate was incorrectly tapped from the factory. It had a fender screw installed rather than the standard hinge screw. This had to have come from the factory because a hinge screw simply would not thread in...the minor diameter of thread was smaller than the lead in on all of the hinge screws I had. I drilled out the hole a few thou to get a hinge screw to work. I was having trouble getting the lower hinge to move forward....on one occasion of the nut plate falling out, I found that one of the 3 metal tabs intended to hold the plate in place prior to installing the screws, was bent down and interfering with the plate's forward movement...bending the tab back in place, fixed that situation.

    I've installed the roofrail trim and seals, but have yet to glue them in place. I'm going to adjust the windows and let them sit a few days to take the shape of the window. After that, I'll glue the seals to the trim channel....they're actually fairly secure w/o any adhesive.

    Question about gluing the seals: I've never used the 3M Super Weather Strip Adhesive as a contact cement (glue on both surfaces until tacked up) but I've read recommendations to do this. I believe it will be very difficult to get this seal properly positioned if I use the adhesive in this manner. One video I viewed, advises to apply sealant as you push the seal into the channel...it's evident they are not using it as a contact cement.

    To those that have replaced the roofrail seals, did you use contact cement form of adhesive or only apply the adhesive to either the channel or the seal? If you did the contact cement method, how did you insure proper positioning of the seal within the channel? I can imagine using..perhaps a teflon strip between the two layers of contact cement and having previously placed alignment marks on both the channel and seal...then sliding out the teflon strip once alignment is achieved, but this seems a bit too elaborate...

    Thanks,
    BT
     
  10. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

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    I use the black 3M weatherstrip adhesive, wet as I go along seating the rubber. Test fit first and do your adjustments before using the glue. Make your lineup marks with a water solubile marker. Always wash the powdery mold release completely off the rubber before you even test fit the rubber and clean the channel too. I use Castrol Purple Stuff then rinse with distilled water. It takes the adhesive a few hours to set up if you put it on thick even though it skins over in minutes. I use enamel thinner, NOT lacquer thinner for the inevitable cleanup. Round off the end of a paint paddle to make a tool to help you push the rubber into the channel. Probably wouldn't hurt to wait overnight before closing the window even though you want to check the fit right now, hard lesson I learned the hard way.
     
  11. Basstrix

    Basstrix In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    Glad to see you're not recommending to use the adhesive as a contact cement. I made my insertion tool out of a threshold shim I had around.
     
  12. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Generally the contact cement method yields a cleaner install, but is not nearly as forgiving as any errors get locked in quickly.
    One other thing, if at all possible do the install when temps are moderate, say mid 70's. The seals expand and contract quite a bit with temperature so if installed when cold they will be too short, and if installed when too hot will pull off of the glue when they get cold.
     
  13. Basstrix

    Basstrix In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    I'm not in any hurry to glue in the seals, so I'll time it for a mild day. Yesterday, it was mid 70's here and the ends were easy to align with the existing holes in the body.
     
  14. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    Mid 70's. Crap, it was 23 here this morning. :mad: Time for a vacation.
     
  15. Mike

    Mike In Overdrive

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    Supposedly it's going to be below freezing at night all this week, dipping down to 18 degrees. On the bright side, cold is the only time that my Ranchero has the right climate controls.
     
  16. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Here in CA we don't have seasons. It gets a little wetter in the winter, and sometimes it gets as high as the 80's or as low as the 40's, but neither lasts for more than a few days.
    Mostly boring sunshine and warm, boring weather.
     
  17. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    I'll be in sunny San Diego in 2 weeks.
    Don't even ask why I live here, I still have no idea. :confused:
     
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  18. Basstrix

    Basstrix In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    The driver's side door has, what I've seen to be somewhat common, fatigue cracks around the latch mechanism. Yesterday, I took the latch off and was really surprised at how thin that sheetmetal is. What was Ford thinking (besides save $.02/door)?

    I got a start on making a set of stiffening plates. I still haven't decided whether to put them on the inside or outside of the door. I'm concerned I'll create an alignment problem with the striker if I put them between the latch and the door on the inside.

    20161210_180105c.jpg
     
  19. Basstrix

    Basstrix In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    Also...does anyone know where to get the rubber bumper that sits inside the latch mechanism? Looks like it's the same as or very similar to the 67-70 mustangs. Have searched the usual sites and haven't found any yet. Obviously, someone makes them for the pop latch assy.

    latch-bumper.jpg
     
  20. Steve 74gtQ

    Steve 74gtQ In Overdrive

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    You may end up useing one from a different area of the car.
    Fuel fill door bumper glove box ect. get one same hole size and trim to height
    Old cars sometimes you have to make your own or modifying what you can get.
    Dearborn sells interior bumper kits that are not alot of money some black 3m weather strip glue to aid in retention
     

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