Discussion in 'Ranchero Tech Help' started by Basstrix, Nov 6, 2016.
Found them at West Coast Cougars
Its important to have those bumpers in there, without them the latch will click closed three positions and the door handle won't release them, you will have to reach inside the door to release it.
nice pieces there.
do a search for this. i think someone else had done this fix.
i too was surprised how thin it was around the latch. a lot of tension goes to that area from the door handle. lame design.
thanks for posting this.
You will just need to add a shim to the striker pin on the door jamb if you mount then on the inside. I have done similar on several older cars, I drill the ends of all the cracks with an 1/8 drill bit. Mark the out line of the plate on the out side of the door. Then drill several 3/16 holes about 1/8 inch inside the line space about 1 inch apart and a few more inside the area. Then bolt the plate on the inside and wire feed or tig weld up the holes to spot weld the plate in.
practicing plug welds with the same material thicknesses as the door/stiffening plate. Feeling better about using the mig with .023 than the tig. Seems like I'm putting more heat into the metal with the tig.
practice practice ,looking good
Try 'easy grind' wire when welding sheet metal.
Dial the welder to the point where you can clearly hear the strikes (as opposed to a continuous arc or, on the other hand, a 'popcorn popping' sound. Almost like sizzling bacon but not quite as fast) the 'easy grind' will flow like solder and as it has a lower melt point causes far less distortion of the sheet metal.
I always use a wet (not dripping) rag held against sheet metal a couple of inches from where I am welding when doing sheet metal. If I see any steam, I stop and work in another location at least 2' away, in your case, the other side of the car.
With the 'easy grind' and keeping things cool I don't have to fix warping or distortion after the welding is done.
I bought a spool of .023 easy grind a while back...that stuff is hard to get and not real cheap! I have a spool of .025 70-s6 for practice...been cutting up strips of 20 ga and punching/flanging it to practice plug welding. I have a pretty versatile MIG machine that's intended for a wide range of metals...it's mainly me getting up to speed on the thin sheetmetal (anything below 16ga is new to me). Will be interesting to see how the easy grind flows. I like the wet rag process you described....sounds like an easy way to gauge when the metal is at risk of warping.
I'm about ready to weld in those door latch stiffeners...but still not confident enough to butt weld them in. At this point, I'm still planning to tig braize the cracks with bronze, then plug weld the stiffening plates with the plates on the inside... I've made up some spacers to mock up the install and see what I have to do, in terms of spacing the striker.
Thanks for the tips,
Get a magnetic copper backing plate for butt welding sheet metal. I have several, bars, disks, and adjustable lever types. I also have copper plates that I can bend and form to clamp behind welds.
The copper prevents blowthrough and draws heat away quickly. That is especially useful when the gap in neither even nor optimal. The weld does not stick to the copper, so the items can be used many times.
As to the easy grind being expensive, time is money and bondo, skim coat, sandpaper, etc... are not free either.
Another thing I do to prevent doors from cracking in this area is to use Aircraft grade, Countersunk washers.
We use them in doing Aircraft Interiors.
They fit flush against the door and prevent the flexing when you slam the door.
Just take out the original screw and washer, install wide countersunk washer and re-install original screw and washer.
If anyone needs some let me know.
That looks like good preventative treatment. The green car and the passenger side of red car still look good. I could use enough for 3 doors. Do you happen to know if mcmaster carries them?
I've welded in the patch for the driver's side on the red car...that sucker's not going anywhere! There were over 50 plug welds!
I buy them from Aircraft Spruce,
sold 25 to a pack.
Is that the same PN as what you're using? It's for a 1/4" screw. Just want to make sure since the latch uses a #12 screw.
Yes, same part #,
I can send you some if you want to try them.
I appreciate the offer, but I went ahead and ordered a pack.
#12 machine screws can be hard to find, especially if you prefer stainless steel hardware as I do. Easy to convert to 1/4-20 by just running your tap into the latches.
They sell #12 stainless machine screws at the Home Depot. Grainger also has almost every length and head style you could want in stainless.
another good tech tip for the day. it "widens" the base of the head of the screw to the surrounding area.
i may invest is some of these too. esp for the passenger side. thanks for posting this.
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