72 Ranchero 351 4V Q code. Time to rebuild/replace

Discussion in 'General Ranchero Help' started by john777, Aug 18, 2016.

  1. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    This^^^is what Hot Wheels should've done for the Fishmouth. Excellent stance and rake, Love the engine you've dropped in, hoping the Supertrapps do the trick.
     
  2. Basstrix

    Basstrix In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    Great looking '72!
     
  3. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    Update.

    Car is driving great. Tweaked the tranny a bit. tach still not working, and will post more on that and the damaged instrument cluster later.

    Ordered Magnaflow Glasspacks, model number 18146. 26 inchers. If they are too loud, the plan is to save room downstream the installation point on the sidepipes for resonator if needed. Will connect both sides with an H pipe of sorts.

    Was going to post a coil spring issue and was reading about the 79 posting. My driver side is one inch lower than the pax side. This was the case before the engine upgrade as well. Does anyone know what the STOCK ride height is at the crossmember for a 72?

    Rather than cutting coils, does someone make a lowered spring for a 72?
     
  4. andrewok1

    andrewok1 In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER SILVER MEMBER

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    here fishee fishee
     
  5. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    Back from vacation and had a fellow car guy weld the exhaust together. Here is the basic product. i will paint the pipe all white (not the chrome tips) and put the heat guard over the pipe, that is already painted the color of the car. Car SOUNDS GREAT! No reason for a resonator. We were able to cut the existing patriot pipe and remove the inards and weld in the Magnaflow Glasspacks. There is an H-pipe underneath and will get a pic of that setup later.
    side pipe   .JPG
     
  6. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    Exhaust complete, just changed the break in oil.


    IMG_7895.JPG IMG_7900.JPG
     
    bigears likes this.
  7. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Looks great.
    If you switched to the weld on supports it would clean up even more by ridding the bolt and nut.
     
  8. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Man, that really is sharp! I even like the shade of color, it pops so well!
     
  9. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    Update. I took the car in for the A/C work and when I was driving home there was some bad noise in the motor. I had a buddy come over and determine we think a main bearing went bad and pulled the oil filter and confirmed lots of bearing material in the filter. Today we pulled the motor and took it back to the machine shop to get some further analysis done.

    Since the motor is now out and I had been enjoying so much torque (almost too much) and might need to get some more mid/upper RPM horsepower, I'm thinking about getting another cam. The issue we had in selecting a cam was that we had difficulty finding a custom ground cam and the one we found was a howard cam which required using a brass dizzy gear, which is about half gone with 1000 miles on the motor.

    Is there any company manufacturing a billet roller with a cast gear for a BBF?
    If not what gear would you recommend?
    Has anyone used gears from "Tritech"?
     
  10. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Owwwwiieeee!!! I hate hearing about things like this. I hope the damage is limited in both reach and scope!
     
  11. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Get a composite gear, they last a lot longer than a brass gear.
    On the other hand, a brass on should last longer than that. Properly set up they last at least 10 times as long as you experienced. 50,000 is not uncommon with street valve springs. Is the wear in the middle? If not, the gear is not properly positioned. Also, they 'wear in' quickly to match the cam, then wear rate slows down significantly. Also, the debris your oil pump was consuming significantly increased the load on the gear. An oil pump chewing up bearing parts will even eat into a cam gear when using a cast dizzy gear. That is just one reason to have a magnet on the bottom of our oil pan.
     
  12. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    Gotta disagree with you on bronze gear life. Most all my customers using a bronze gear replace it every season (race cars) and the few street guys rarely get more than a few thousand miles before needing replacement. The only cam requiring a bronze gear is a billet steel cam, and rarely do "street valve springs" work with a roller cam of any significant size. The Comp Cams composite gear may last quite a while, or be destroyed in a couple hundred miles, it all depends on the cam gear prep beforehand. No reason to run a solid roller unless looking for every bit of power available. Hydraulic rollers can be ground on a cast steel core so you can use a steel gear (NOT cast) just like all the factory hydraulic rollers use.
     
  13. Basstrix

    Basstrix In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    What do valve springs have to do with the distributor gear longevity. My understanding is it's all about matching up proper materials between the two gears along with ensuring the distributor gear is set at proper height. I understand it's a good idea to do the oil galley mod to spray the gears, also.

    I can't see how the valve springs are anywhere in the load path between the cam gear and oil pump. Throw a high volume pump and/or high vis oil in the mix, and I'm with you.
     
  14. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Your opinion on solid roller cams is common, but far from universal.
    A solid roller not only produces a flatter wider torque curve, but improves VE at mid range RPMs. Some oddballs, like myself, see that as a benefit on a street warrior.
    Fact is that if you build a race engine, reliability goes out the window, and you have to do a lot of maintenance. There are a lot of solid roller set ups running on the road that are rock solid reliable, they just have more torque and better throttle response.
    And yes, prep is important, as, is even more critical, verification of tolerances.
    The reference to the cast gear was to an old school stock configuration. Debris in the oil is very hard on distributor gears and oil pump drive shafts, along with the receiver in the end of the dizzy.
     
  15. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    High pressure springs create vibration as they move the cam back and forth due to slack in the timing chain or gear. Consider that when opening, the valve spring is resisting the rotation of the cam, but while closing is pushing the cam. This translates to vibration at the dizzy gear that that can shear the oil film, significantly increasing wear. This vibration, and associated harmonics, are also a factor in spark scatter in the dizzy cap.
     
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  16. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Which is why some racers go to a timing gear drive, to reduce or eliminate slack between crank and cam, and to stave off the aforementioned spark scatter with more precise timing control.
     
  17. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    Yes, opinions are just that, opinions. But the hard fact is that solid roller lifters have a very short life span in a street car, aggressive lobes will yield 5-6,000 miles, milder street roller lobes will go about double that. But along with mild lobes comes less performance and becomes in range of a hydraulic roller for power.
     
  18. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    No, no one makes a billet Ford cam with a cast gear. You do know, hopefully, that you can have a cast steel solid roller cam ground and use a steel gear, the only restriction is open pressure - needs to be below 500lbs.
     
  19. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    As they say 'you're results may vary'.
    Years ago I was having the exact same conversation RE hydraulic roller cams.
     
  20. andrewok1

    andrewok1 In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER SILVER MEMBER

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    John when we talked on the phone you said you had a bad bottom end noise , sorry to hear only 1000 miles , hopefully you got it before wasting entire motor
     

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