72 Ranchero 351 4V Q code. Time to rebuild/replace

Discussion in 'General Ranchero Help' started by john777, Aug 18, 2016.

  1. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    I didn't want to wait three months for the p-51's so we went with the SCJ heads
    Here are the cam specs.

    528 Cam Specs.JPG
     
  2. andrewok1

    andrewok1 In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER SILVER MEMBER

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    Thats very good to hear , just loose bolts ,and lots of power
     
  3. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Yeah, that was so very lucky, knock on wood (raps knuckles on noggin).
     
  4. Basstrix

    Basstrix In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    Thanks for posting up the info. SCJ's are right up there on the 385 pecking order and from your dyno results, they're doing well :)
     
  5. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    I picked the motor up from the shop and dropped it back into the Ranchero (after sanding down the powder coating on the flexplate) Hooked up the tranny and later this week all the rest of the accessories. Looking forward to getting it back on the road, that will be a Christmas present in itself...
     
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  6. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    I replaced my leaking steering gearbox with a refurbished one two years ago. While driving the car recently I have no power steering when turning to the right but its normal turning to the left. I took the car into A shop and had them look at the front end and they said there was no damage(I had the car shipped up to Norcal in December) The mechanic said there was nothing wrong with my suspension and said it sounded like the gearbox went bad...

    Any input or ideas? Or do I buy a new gearbox and R&R the beast?
     
  7. 72GTVA

    72GTVA Administrator Staff Member

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    Probably the latter - check your warranty on the rebuilt/refurbished steering gear.
     
  8. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    Not going to be worth my time since the shop was in SoCal. Lesson learned, I should have bought a new unit. Anyone have any links?
     
  9. burninbush

    burninbush In Maximum Overdrive

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    Well ... it's highly unlikely that your steering gear is broken. Inside your steering box is a servo decision-device trying to decide whether to send your pressurized oil to one side or the other (of an internal piston) to help steer the car. That decision device is where the problem lives. Maybe a plugged passage or similar, or something obstructing the steering valve. Keep trying to find somebody who knows steering boxes -- there must be someone out there. Or, get a manual and figure it out for yourself, they aren't that complicated.

    All servos work the same. YouTube might be helpful.
     
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  10. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    Over time the issue got better. That was until I joined the Norcal Shelby club and went to the road course in sonoma this past weekend. In my third session the steering became problematic and I left the session early and packed up and went home. The steering became very hard in both directions, not just the right, which was the previous issue.
    12.1 sec drag car saw its first road course and i beat the hell out of it. I think the Shelby/Mustang guys were stunned i entered.

    I'll post a similar report on the Torino Forum. My car is obviously not set up for a road course. I enjoyed myself at the track and I think I can beat my car up 3 or 4 times a year on a road course. But I need to do a few upgrades.

    On Monday, the day after the race I drove the car and noticed a scraping/rubbing noise in the rear end. I needed to get the steering looked at and made an appointment at the local mechanic who works on my F-150.
    The Mechanic determined that the noise in the rear was coming from the pumpkin, but they did not do that type of work and want wanted to send the car an hour away to have the rear looked at which was going to quite expensive, so i told him I would bring it back home and pull it apart myself and fine someone more knowlegable than me to help me investigate the issue and put it back together. (the rear is stock 3.25 gears with and aftermarket posi) (My buddy and I pulled that apart when i did my motor three years ago and put the posi in with lash help from someone with the proper tools and knowledge) I also have rear Currie axles.
    The mechanic recommended the power steering pump be replaced as he said the output was not up to snuff. I told him I would do that myself and that would help isolate the issue to the box if the steering still doesn't work after replacement.

    1. DOES ANYONE HAVE A RECOMMENDATION FOR A STEERING PUMP WITH AND EXTERNAL RESERVOIR ALONG THE LINES OF A BOLT IN???? I need something to keep the pump from cavitating in the road course turns.

    2. On the road course i was very careful with the brakes and never had fading or failure, but was going to press a bit further in the following sessions, which i failed to accomplish due to the steering issue. I'm going to get some new front brake pads and these are what I'm planning on getting unless someone has a better idea.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/agb-pg-d50m

    At this point in time, I'm interested in keeping the stock front calipers and rear drums (the list of other things gets longer)

    3. I'm going to install a dual adjustable front coilover conversion kit. Does anyone have any ideas for a bolt on application?
    I'm also going to install a rear universal dual adjustable shock. I've been looking at ViKing for both front and back.
    http://vi-king.com/
    I already have a large diameter front sway bar and i plan to install a rear sway bar as well.

    4. Obviously I need to tires and wheels. Right now I'm running 275/60/15s and 235/60/15s. My buddy said to run 18s in back and 17s up front.
    Some nice racer at the track let me take home his 275/40/17s and they fit pretty good. He said i could use them until he gets his next car ready. He was driving an ass kicking 66? Fairlane. Any input on road course wheels/tire combos?






    Enjoy, I did, but my car got pretty beat up...
     
  11. RancheroRandy

    RancheroRandy In Maximum Overdrive

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    The 2 sources I like are Global West Suspension and Total Control Products and list conversions up to 1971 so apparently things changed in 1972 but I would talk to either/both of them and see what they might be able to help you with...?
     
  12. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    You are correct, no 72-79s for either company.
     
  13. andrewok1

    andrewok1 In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER SILVER MEMBER

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  14. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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  15. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    Regarding the Power Steering pump, I ordered a stock replacement "cardone". A gearhead friend suggested moving the PS cooler from above the AC Compressor (which is above the PS pump) to below the PS pump such that there would be less cavitation due to simple gravity laws.

    Any feedback?
     
  16. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

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    Ford learned about that cavitation problem, that is why you now see the steering coolers located in front of the radiator support, down low but in the air flow into the radiator. Will need more hose but it is relatively cheap.
     
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  17. Garbageman

    Garbageman In Overdrive

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    878
    Location:
    SW Washington
    Rebuilt my 351C 4V 2 years ago. Tuned it down a smidge to burn unleaded premium. Add a few HP to stock, not much. Very happy and purrs fine as an almost daily driver.
     
  18. LSChero

    LSChero In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

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    I used combo cooler from 90s merc,works well.Lucas PS fluid does not foam up even with hydro boost.Also added inline filter.
    SAM_4024.JPG
     
  19. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    Great stuff, thanks.
     
  20. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    Functional and hidden with the grill back on, nice work.
     

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