72 Ranchero 351 4V Q code. Time to rebuild/replace

Discussion in 'General Ranchero Help' started by john777, Aug 18, 2016.

  1. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    The modern Mustang GT is not hot off the line by any means. It weighs around 3600 lbs and has an engine that makes no power until you wind it up, I suspect marketing thought it should run like a Ricer. On the other hand, above 50MPH it runs like a cat that got it's backside painted with turpentine.
     
  2. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    We're spoiled by the fact most of our pushrod V8s can do both, but at the cost of one or the other, as the pushrod V8s were all a compromise between torque and horsepower. If you wanted to race, you had to change the aspects of the engine to give it higher horsepower or higher torque, but not both. The newest engines use technology to try to get around those limitations.
     
  3. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Were the Jackboots to remove their foot from the necks from the automotive engineers we would have engines that not only pulled insanely hard off the line, but have a flat torque curve right to redline.
    Just ask anyone who has installed an aftermarket computer and a few modifications to a 5.0 HO with the Eaton blower.
    That combo trounces the insanely expensive Coyote power plant.
    FORD, and everyone else for that matter, knows that varying compression will help low to mid HP engines far more than variable cam timing, especially under boost. However, just like their hydraulic braking energy storage system that any wrencher can understand and work on lost the popularity contest with our overlords, so has variable compression.
     
  4. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    Next issue:

    Is there a bracket for a Quick Fuel Carb that will enable me to use the kickdown rod on my C=6?
     
  5. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Yes, the Holley one is an exact fit.
    I recommend using a cable though.
    Easier to adjust, never rattles, and you can add a spring to the cable allowing the kickdown to occur at whatever throttle position you desire without the system binding.
     
  6. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    The sidepipes dont flow very well, but with 650HP or so, I'm not worried about losing some. They look cool on the car. I decided to paint the tubes white and the covers the same as the car. Ford Orange Crush.

    These are Patriot 70" sidepipes I've had from summit

    We are having a hell of a time fitting the crites headers on the driver side, with the existing powersteering.


    IMG_6273.JPG IMG_6274.JPG
     
  7. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    What total timing is a good ballpark for this combo?

    SCJ Heads
    10.0 CR
    Hyd Roller 235/241 @ 050
    .611/.611 lift on a 110
     
  8. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Aluminum heads?
    What temp T stat you running, and details of your cooling system?
    Is the cam straight up? Advanced? Retarded?

    If you have aluminum heads then, with a dynamic compression that low, you will likely end up in the 38-40 range.
    Iron heads, 36-38.

    The way I do it is as follows;
    Retard the distributor about 20 degrees.
    Remove the advance springs and have the vac advance plugged.
    Start the engine, run it up to 2000 RPM, set the timing to 35 advance and lock the distributor down.
    Reinstall the springs, vac still plugged, start the engine and note idle advance.
    Now you have a reliable baseline so that you know what the total advance will be based on idle advance.

    There is no other way to get that information.
     
  9. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    Aluminum heads, cam advanced 4 degrees, 160 deg thermostat.
     
  10. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    At 4 degrees (from a degreeing wheel, rather than grind + 4 degrees) you should be able to run about 38 without needing a start retard setup. If you run a vacuum advance it will need to be altered, significantly if your cruise RPM is near your distributor mech advance maximum.
    Naturally you want to be very conservative with timing during break in and carb tuning.
     
  11. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    More progress after two weeks off... See pics. Pulleys and brackets are almost done. The A/C is sticking out 1/2 pulley too far. is there any fix for this????? Everything else seems to line up very nicely. See pics.

    IMG_6451.JPG IMG_6452.JPG IMG_6453.JPG IMG_6454.JPG IMG_6455.JPG IMG_6456.JPG
     
  12. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Resize the collar, cut down the shaft if needed. Then pin the pulley to the shaft.
    Good call on the Quick Fuel carb. The Holley design is a platform as versatile as the 1911. Too bad Holley quit a while back.
     
  13. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    That sounds too complicated. We think we can buy a double pulley for the York Compressor, replace the current single pulley.

    http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=815931&jsn=251

    Does anyone have a double pulley lying around like this? I don;t really want to pay 145$ for this...


     
  14. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    I have a lathe and a mill.
    You know what they say, 'if you have a hammer, everything looks like a nail'.
     
  15. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    We are getting a 2 groove pulley for the A/C compressor to line up all the pulleys. Crites Headers are not fitting as advertised.

    528 progress.JPG
     
  16. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    it is my understanding that the Crites headers were designed for use with the Crites engine mounts and don't play nice with the factory ones.
     
  17. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    I bought the motor mounts and radiator from Crites
     
  18. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    In that case, they owe you an explanation.
     
  19. john777

    john777 In Overdrive

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    Crites is going to take the headers back.

    1. However, while trying to get them to fit, we had to unbolt the driver side motor mount. We are now having a helluva time trying to get the motor mount bolt back in the hole. Whats the best way to move the motor around to get the motor mount lined up so we can get the bolt through????

    2.Also, I was watching a you tube video of someone changing out a motor mount and they used a jack to jack up the motor, but put the jack under the oil pan. Is the oil pan strong enough to support a BBF???? We had been using a block of wood up against the engine block and had been avoiding the oil pan as a support to raise the motor.

    Any feedback on these two issues?
     
  20. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    1. Remove the bolt from the other mount, level the engine, and both will drop right in. Generally it is not advisable to disconnect only one engine mount when raising the engine as you risk breaking the other mount.
    2. Yes, as long as a transmission cradle or a square of at least 2X that is slightly larger than the bottom of the pan is between the jack and the pan. Naturally you install blocks between the engine and cross member before inserting anything valuable, like a hand.
     

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