See, I've known that, so this is the first time I've heard of an E303 causing an 'excessive' idle lope. That's why I think it's the bypass air volume, and suggested the adjustment plate. At least, if the plate does not work, it can be easily removed. But using a scantool would tell if the IAC was full-on open, or having a problem. One thing you can try, LSC, is to pull the IAC, inspect visually, ensure it's clean and the pintle is lubed.
New IAC,O2s and autolite plugs installed.No change on crappy idle issue.Pulls like a mac truck past 1500 rpm.Still unable to slow roll in third without bucking.Fooled with timing.Seem to idle a little better at *18,but sure it will melt the pistons there.Acts like cam timing is off a tooth.Only 12 on vac gauge. All cyls even compression,no visible intake leaks on smoke test.Didnt degree the cam at assembly.No wheel.Factory cam,what could go wrong..Looks like engine hoist is is coming out of the corner again.
Yeah, I agree, it's off by a tooth with 12° vac and 18° initial timing. I bet the exhaust manifolds or headers were discolored during running.
Crane (manufacturer of Ford cams) was good for not having the dowel in the right place - I had a BBF roller that was 11 degrees off!! I highly doubt you missed the cam by a tooth. You can verify the cam timing without removing the timing cover just the belts and #1 valve cover, plus the spark plug.
I got the cam from a member years ago.Perhaps he had same issue,and changed it out.Anyway,stock HO cam is going back in .Ill go to 1.7 rockers if I feel it needs more lift to take advantage of AFR 185 heads.AC is mandatory here and needs to be smooth running.Really dont want to pull motor.Ill try to replace cam with intake and front disassembled in place.Not sure if I can get corner lifters out without removing heads... Phil,Does high oil pressure affect lifter function?Machinest recommended high volume oil pump(melling)and would be fine with stock front sump.Running 40 idle-65 rpm at temp.All my previous 5.0s ran 25-50 psi. Plugs looked fine Andy.
The combination of heavier oil and higher pressure will most likely make it unhappy when cold. BUT, the corner lifters will just barely come out with the AFR's (usually need to "clip" the gaskets a bit.) OR, lift them up and put a rubber band around each pair (in the oil band) and they'll be high enough to facilitate a cam change. And it sure will like 1.7's
Been a looong time since I had to rubber band lifters for a cam change. Nowadays, I use magnets in the lifter body grooves. As for pressure in a Windsor, mine's bone stock, hydro lifters. When I finished assembling the long block, I tinned it, filled the oil pan, hooked in a pressure gauge, and used a 1/2 horse drill with a socket and extension to drive the pump. Once the system was filled and I barred over the engine several revolutions, the pressure at full revs was around 53-54 at ambient temp. Once the engine was installed and hooked up, I fired it up (with another gauge, this was a few months later), broke the cam in, and had 55-56 cold, 46-47 hot. So your numbers are well within range. I'd like to know what Babe's pressures are now, 40+ thousand miles on.
Trying to get dash back together this week.Taking wifee to vegas this weekend.51 year anniversary and her birthday.Decaled the cluster.Looks much better! Tear into 5.0 next week..
Removed plenum and rockers today.Push rods are a touch long and not all push rods are spinning.Only have maybe a couple hours run time.Maybe parts are still tight..Noted crack on plenum base,but dont think is my vacuum issue.Stock HO intake and cam going back in anyway.Cam coming out tomorrow.
A bit of Ultra Gray on the crack will ensure no leaks. And don't worry about pushrods spinning - with the hydraulic roller they better not spin . I wouldn't change the length - the pattern looks great.
Cams swapped out.Heads need to come off to replace lifters.All rollers looked good.Still want to know what was making horrendous random noise.No noticeable visual diff. between cams.Stock HO is 464 lift,114 lsa,vs 499/110 E cam.May had vacuum leak #1 intake port or stuck injector judging by stain on head.Had stock cam in the 72 with gt 40 upper,and ford X heads and it idled smooth 650rpm.Hoping for same results...
Yeah, I do see where it looks like it was "drinking " a bit of oil in #1, and I think I see some more in #5 also. Try dry fitting the lower with no gasket to ensure the surfaces are parallel. I have seen that issue quite a bit lately. You can slide the intake over to one side, then the other, and check top and bottom gaps with a feeler gauge, front and back. It should be a thou or 2 tighter at the bottom. I won't tell you how may Edelbrock intakes I've had to correct . Normally the stock ones are ok. Are you changing the lifters also? Don't the Enforcer heads have the same lifter recess that the CNC ones do? The stock lifters do come out with the CNC heads, it's just a major pain with the 4 corner ones.
Left the lifters in,all the rollers/cam lobes showed no damage.Didnt really try to remove them,just canted them to remove cam.Something is still in a bind. I was rotating crank with ratchet (with plugs out)Stopped to note position on cam gear.Loud Clack sound about 2 seconds after I let go of ratchet!Going to loosen tranny bolts.Thinking Trans fitment issue (pilot bearing)has crank in bind killing thrust bearing.Really dont know what else it could be..
With no rockers on? Without the cam? Yeah, something's goofy. You might be onto something with the pilot - did you use a bearing or bushing? Can you hold your hand on the clutch fork while you're turning it over - if it's in the pilot or throwout bearing you should be able to feel it. And yes, I see the recess - do the lifters go all the way up into it, or do they hit the edge of the intake flange? The lifters you are using are only about .050 taller than a stock OEM lifter.
Put shim plate(16ga) between trans and bell housing.Dont know if it will help,just guessing at this point.Noted steering box was leaking at rag joint seal. New $450 sag. box installed with headers on!What a PIA .. Now on to engine reassembly.
Babe's DID leak while the engine was out, but the master cylinder and brake prop valve were more important.
Evidently my poor choice of break in oil destroyed the lifters.While setting valve lash,noted the cup in lifter was not depressing on 4 lifters.(not pumped up) Heads have to come off to replace lifters, so block is coming out.Makes sense, on clack noise when engine stopped rotating and oil pressure bleed off.Not sure if HD lifters going back in or stock ford units.The struggle continues..
