No,spun engine with ratchet to zero lash+1/2 turn all 8 cyl.Dropped dizzy in to prime lifters hoping to un-stick cups...Fail.Tryed to disassemble faulty lfter to no avail.120 psi would not move piston!
I'd be hard pressed to believe that 30 weight oil ruined the lifters - usually it's some kind of debris, either in the lifters themselves, or in the block somewhere. The Ford Motorsports lifters you have are exactly the same lifter sold by Elgin, Speed Pro (Sealed Power), SBI, etc. It seems everybody is just reboxing the same part. I wouldn't be surprised to find that factory Ford replacement lifters are the same part. They are all approximately .024 taller than "old" Ford lifters - 2.541 OAL, versus 2.517 for the older style (stock). The CNC type AFR heads have approximately .240 deep recess for the lifter removal area, not sure what the Enforcer type have. Maybe while the heads are off you can have someone machine the recess a bit deeper. It could also be the lifter bosses are a bit taller in your block, they have been known to vary. Try taking one of your stuck lifters and slamming it on the anvil portion of your vise (inverted, of course) to see if that moves the piston. I guess it wasn't the cam after all, huh? Man, I feel for ya - that sucks big time.
I assume that these lifters were new, and you manually pumped them up in an oil bath? Because I can't see a new lifter just collapsing, for the heck of it.
I agree.Locked up lifters may have slightly opened valves or caused erratic valve timing.Hence low vac. and crappy idle.Freed up all lifters on left bank,dont seem to be damaged.Going to try to clear right side in place.Noted gooey substance coming from lifter oil port when collapsing piston in vice.Thinking might be lucas bearing lube ended up in bottom of lifter..Been known to use much on bearings.DOH!
Ooh, yeah, the Lucas lube is really thick - I have only used motor oil for assembly for years for that specific reason. I still have a good supply of moly paste (the old black stuff) that I use on flat tappet engines, other than that just VR1 on everything. And prime by spinning the pump right on the stand - priming tools are fairly cheap. How are you going to collapse the lifters on the right bank? Only thing I can think of is leverage, a few times over, and it still may leave residual in the lifter oil galleries - no, maybe not, I remember seeing the lifters raised up - that should clear them. Good luck.
I'll take it that you have not seen lifter install instructions in quite a while - all the manufacturers state that it is NOT preferred to pump them up first, just a soak.
Admittedly, yes, it's been a while. It kind of makes me wonder just what criteria determined this reversal?
Yeh,lifter galleys may still have syrup in them.You would think once oil reaches 200* the goop would dissolve.Going to drop oil &filter,refill with 5-30 mobile 1.Made compression tool out of old stamp rocker,flat washers.Slowly came down on nut to push plunger down.Worked great!Too bad my DA didnt think of that before I pulled head Ha Ha.Head gaskets will be here sat.
Tolerance changes with the internal piston - hydraulic roller has less "leak down" needed due to the faster ramps of the roller style lobes.
Fired her today.Idles perfect.Clacked a couple times on cold start up but hasnt made any noises on a run to fuel up.Still got to check TPS volts,timing and why check engine light is on.Probley smog codes.While setting lash,Noted one of the dog bones jumped up and slapped the block on #5 exhaust valve with that similar sound.So I put OE spider and dog bones back on.I dont know,I give up.Will run it till it breaks ,then Ill know the answer.All stock now except heads and pistons.
Although I see it in the pics and read what you posted about them, I couldn't imagine the all frustrations you have been put through during this process. Good it see it back together and running again, hopefully the issues will be a thing of the past.
The #5 ex valve may have still been loose before lash adjustment - I have seen them do that. If it was some kind of issue it would have shown itself by now. But it sounds like you clearing the heavy stuff out of the lifters did the trick - awesome! The idiot light, as you already know, could be a multitude of things. You'll get that figured out, just as you got your lifter noise figured out. Hey, it's back in, quiet, and it probably runs a bit better now, huh?
Had 5 TCs.4 were emissions,and a 22 out of range.(MAP)Sure enough,pigtail was laying on bell housing...Plugged it in and cleared codes.Adjusted TPS,check timing at 10*.Probley lost 40 HP by deleting cam,GT40 intake,and 65mm TB.But I good with performace for now.No clacks,smooth as Jameson.Made a couple pulls to 4500 rpm and was fine.Tried 5K 2 gear pull and fell flat at 4800 so I backed out.Felt like it was running out of air or fuel.Going to let the computer learn for a few miles. New saginaw is really tight.Got to help it return to center!I got a lot of +caster in her,may have to revisit alignment.Really need to find my drive shaft stretcher tool before I spit the tube out the back! Thanks for your help Phil.
Good news! I wouldn't think that an "E" cam can cost you that much, but you still have the intake and TB, right ? And before you do much more, 13 - 14* (on 87) really works wonders. Even 12* will be a noticeable improvement.
On Fullsizebronco.com, one of the old members (Sixlitre) demonstrated what he called a "Sixlitre tuneup," which consisted of Accel cap, rotor, 8mm wires and Autolite copper plugs gapped .052-.056, an Accel coil, and initial timing set to 13-14°. Those who did so, with no other modifications, found their engines ran better, slightly more power and a couple MPG points. This only applies to EFI-equipped engines.
Set timing at 14*,no change.Still wont rev much past 4k.Going to double check TDC on new dampener..Had to replace rear trans seal.Knocked the spring out. Real PIA!Cut and welded new yoke on drive shaft and replaced trans fluid with mobil 1 full syn,ATF.
"Knocked the spring out?" That's a new one on me. I've pushed them out while installing them (incorrectly, of course, when you don't have the factory seal drivers), but I've never had one come out while installing what they seal against.
