73 Squire.

Discussion in 'The Stable' started by Monk Daveohue, Jul 30, 2022.

  1. Monk Daveohue

    Monk Daveohue In Second Gear

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    Southern California
    I bought a 73 Ranchero Squire at an on line estate auction two months ago.
    The high bid was not very high and even with all the buyer's fees and tax and DMV title fees and a tow to my house and some junkyard parts, I'm not into it for much.
    It was orginally from the Houston area then went to the So Cal High desert in 1990.
    It's been off the road since 1997.
    I almost didn't buy it. It had the wrong front clip, one from a 74 on it. I was afraid there was going to be some problem with the title. But the paper work turned out to be solid.

    But, my luck being the way it is, it appears the 302 engine in it is bad.
    So I'll just mention any help finding me a good engine to get me moving will be appreciated.
    I have a Mercruiser 888 with a 302 four barrel from 1978 that I have been keeping "for just such an occasion" as Foghorn Leghorn used to say. I'm not averse to any small block or any big block, though I of course would also have to get a transmission for the big block since the 302 version won't bolt up.
    squire_dash.jpeg
    I haven't found the casting numbers to verify that the 302 is in fact the one it was built with.
    There was one notation in the pile of receipts using the word "new engine 5 thousand miles."
    The previous owner kept track of gas purchases and odometer readings. He calculated between 15 and 18 mpg, which isn't bad to my way of thinking. There are 35k on the odometer now, leading me to hope that the "new engine" only had 30 thousand miles on it. None the less, it is stuck. I can turn it only with great effort with a socket on the bolt on the crank, even with the spark plugs out. And, I had Marvel and penetrant oil through the spark plug holes and I even put a pint of diesel through the carb.
    It feels like the bottom end is dragging. A car guy said he thinks one bearing is spun OVER it's partner on a main. But he hasn't seen it. That diagnosis is based on my write up of the symptoms.

    So, as I said, it has a 74 clip. Of course, if I had to have the wrong clip, I'd rather have a 72 clip.
    There is little evidence of the crash that likely resulted in the clip being swapped except that the gaps are
    more uneven than you'd expect.
    The tailgate seems to have been swapped, also, since it is beige and not gold.
    The odd thing is the switched tailgate and fender appear to be from another Squire judging by the holes drilled for the Squire moldings.
    So, everything is light duty. 302, C4, 8 inch rear axle, open, 10 inch rear drums.
    Standard gauge package.
    The good thing is that there is no evidence of rust through anywhere on the car. Even surface rust is minimal.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2022
  2. Monk Daveohue

    Monk Daveohue In Second Gear

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    Southern California
    So, as the pictures showed in the previous message, the passenger seat was missing and the driver seat was green (same color as the front clip before the repaint) and had a few defects in the cushion. It was pretty comfortable aside from that. I was lucky that a 77 Mark V Bill Blass was in the junkyard. I took the two brown (leather, supposedly) seats from it and the seating pedestal from the passenger side, since my Ranchero needed that. They are a perfect match in color for the Rancher's door panels.
    I also got the x braces for the front. There appears to be holes to mount them in the front of the car, in the center, but none in the back.
    There was an aftermarket cassette radio in the Ranchero, but I couldn't get it to work.
    The Bill Blass had the Quad 8 track I wanted, but when I got back with the 9/16 deep socket I needed to remove it without damaging the Mark's dash, it looked like a bomb had gone off in the dash.
    The radio was nowhere to be seen. While lying under the Mark, I spotted it on the ground about 20 feet away. It looked like it had been chucked.
    The 8 track door was broken in half, but I bought it anyway. I haven't tested it for function yet. I wonder if the color codes on the radio wires match the ones I downloaded for a 73 Torino stereo.
    Oh, I wanted those caliper adapters so I could use 12 inch rotors and maybe the spindles and the rotors and the rear axle (disk brake 5 inch bolt circle).
    I removed the rear sway bar from the Mark, but had a feeling I'd better double check that I can use it. So I left it in the junkyard.
    When I got home, I got under the back of the Ranchero with a flash light.
    Sure enough, the Ranchero has no frame provisions for the sway bar nor does the 8 inch rear axle. I'm wondering if an aftermarket rear sway bar. 1. fits both 8 and 9 inch axles 2. does not require a special frame.
    I wish I had a posi in the 8 inch. You can see there are dirt road driveways, dirt back yards and even some dirt roads. But the cost of the posi is more than I'd want to pay for a 9 inch axle .
    Good news. The surround for the dash, absent in the picture, was in the cubby hole behind the seat. It is in good condition. It is not brown like you'd expect in a Squire, however.
    Did I mention that 80 percent of the Squire trim is missing?
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2022
  3. Monk Daveohue

    Monk Daveohue In Second Gear

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    Southern California
    Side view. One of the tires was new when parked in 1997, according to the date code.
    That's the date the tire guy said when I took in the shredded tires for disposal.
    squirerightside.jpeg All but the spare were switched to 15 inch.
    The parts store plastic hub caps looked ok from a distance. But they had brittle plastic.
    The tow truck guy shattered one of them when he tried to remove it to put air in. But none of the four tires held air. I'm leaning toward turbine 1980's Crown Vic wheels, or the turbine wheel from a Mark V if I have to change bolt circles.
    Notice the molding on the b pillar which seems to indicate the car came with a vinyl top. But no evidence of the vinyl was seen. I'm missing the molding on the driver side.
    I'm lucky that, unlike most cars, the body is fully painted on the roof even when ordered with a vinyl top. If I am wrong about that late me know. The top could have been painted gold when the front clip was.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2022
    HuevosRanchero likes this.
  4. LSChero

    LSChero In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

    Messages:
    2,433
    Location:
    Area 6 NV
    Welcome to site MD!Looks like good project.Interesting squire,most are loaded up with deluxe interior,3 spoke steering wheel,woodgrain ect.Post up pic of data decal on drivers door to see what it was born with.
     
  5. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    13,059
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    Ho ho, ya made it! Cool! I'll send you a PM on here, make sure that part works for you.
     
  6. Monk Daveohue

    Monk Daveohue In Second Gear

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    Southern California
    The door tag is almost impossible to take a picture of that shows any of the type. It is kind of like a vapire in the mirror.
    But here is what you can see with a human eye.
    Date 11/72
    Vin 3AF49155xxx xxx's are actually digits but I left them out of this post
    Body 97K
    color 6F corrected from what I had posted earlier
    Trans W
    Axle 6
    DSO 26

    As I recall what that means is
    302, Squire, Gold, C4, 8 inch 3.0 non posi, New Orleans
    Nothing really remarkable.
    The car was in Dallas, which is plausibly close to New Orleans, prior to 1990.
    I studied carefully since the grill is from a 74-76 and the front seat was switched
    and matches the green of the fenders.
    Shouldn't I have a wood grain dash surround?
    To me it is interesting that the wood grain sections and the roof are the same gold as the rest of the car. All the wood grain is long gone except for some stains on the (probably not -from this- car) tailgate.
    On another topic, can you please tell me how to take off the door arm rests?
    I can't do it with either a phillips head screw driver or a 3/8 socket.
    My socket got lost in the opening, as did the flex driver.
    I'm thinking a thin 3/8 super long socket or super long extension.
    It appears I am going to have to destroy what's left of my passenger side arm rest to get the socket and flex drive out.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2022
  7. LSChero

    LSChero In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

    Messages:
    2,433
    Location:
    Area 6 NV
    Same build date as my 73 500,but was born with 351c.Not much is original now,was green in and out.Iam just north of vegas and have a few parts left over
    if you want to go through them.Down sizing the herd.Try nut driver or 1/4 sockets on arm rests.Have door panels and maybe armrests.
    SAM_4301.JPG SAM_4303.JPG
     
    Givrsum and uk ranchero like this.
  8. Monk Daveohue

    Monk Daveohue In Second Gear

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    Southern California
    Well, I have a bad feeling about the 302. It turns but with great difficulty. I turned it with the damper bolt. I turned it counter clockwise since turning it clockwise from the front, the normal direction of engine rotation, risks breaking the bolt or damaging the crank. It didn't have the feeling of pushing against compression every few turns either.
    On the other hand, the Mercruiser 888 turned like I expect a good engine to turn with the bolt. I can feel the compression and hear it hissing every 90 degrees or so.
    But, just today I made a discovery. That boat intake looked a bit wide.
    I'm pretty sure it is a 351 Windsor. The valve covers are two inches farther apart than they are on the car. The thermostat housing is in the same place in the intake on both engines.
    It still has what looks like the original valve covers painted grey original paint. A paper sticker says "Firing order 13726548". I checked how the wires were laid out and they were laid out that way. That is a 351 Marine firing order.
    D2JE-6176-CA are also on stickers on the valve cover. Which suggest a 351 Marine from 1972 or newer. The boat is a 77 but that could still be the stock engine. The stern drive says "888" on it so I was sure they only came as 188 hp 302's.
    If my googling results are true, the 351 Marine was 220 or 240 horsepower.
    Hey, that's fine with me. But there are a couple of complications.
    So, if I use that engine, the aluminum 289/302 "Twisted carberator" Edelbrock Torker I bought on Ebay won't work. The marine oil pan won't work in a car and the 302 oil pan won't work in a 351 Windsor. I guess I could buy a cheap oil pan for under 100 dollars.
    The boat engine has a points distributor with no vacuum advance, so I'd need a 351W car distributor.
    It does have an iron four barrel with a vacuum secondary marine Holley on it. List 50469-1
    The boat is probably too rotted in the hull to use. I kind of hate to NOT use the engine in the Ranchero. But I'm wondering if using it the hard/ expensive way. There is a 69 Lincoln with a 460 and c6 in a nearby junkyard. Probably a bad engine.
    "Junkyard Digs" on Youtube did a video on boat-to-pickup engine swap.
    Any leads on drive train parts in the So Cal area , I'm all ears.
     
  9. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    13,059
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    Okay, first, you'll not only need a 351W pan (I got mine, all chromed, from the J.C. Whitney catalog in '01), but a matching pump sump. Hell, ya might as well throw in a new pump while you're there. You'll need intermediate car 351W engine mounts, flexplate for C4 and crank bolts to attach said flexplate. If you decide to go elex ignition, I can sell you a recurvable 351W Duraspark II dizzy and harness. You'll have to wire in a spark box and install a DS II coil for your rig to run it. And finally, you'll need to bolt up the timing cover from the 302, and source bracket sets for an intermediate 351W, such as a '77-'79 T-Bird or Cougar. The radiator and heater hoses hook right up, and the t-stat is 180° factory.
     
  10. Monk Daveohue

    Monk Daveohue In Second Gear

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    Southern California
    Are you sure about the flexplate and motor mounts being different for the 351w vs 302? I have read that the brackets for the accessories is different?
    I may take you up on the offer for the distributor, but I'd need to have the other parts lined up. Otherwise I may end up collecting parts for an engine I don't use. Like I thought 125 dollars for a Edelbrock Torker 289/302 on Ebay was a pretty good deal. So I got that. But I may not be able to use it. I also have a FE aluminum intake lying on a shelf I can't get to. (a car is blocking the shelves) Have you seen how much guys want for those things now? If only I could find a complete FE drive train in So Cal so I can put it to use.
     
  11. Monk Daveohue

    Monk Daveohue In Second Gear

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    Southern California
    I corrected my paint code to "6F" in a previous post.
    I went to a paint store in So Cal and bought enough paint to repaint at least my tailgate . I think it was the cheapest paint they sold. Nason Ful Thane 2.8
    Any comments about that? It is a single stage Urethane. Though some guys apparently clear coat it.
    I really didn't want any paint with "iso cyanates". But there was no options for Acrylic Enamel, at least in this state. I really was thinking of hopping on a casino bus for Vegas, then going to the paint store instead of a casino. But I wasn't sure what I'd find there. Maybe they don't have any better paint choices over there.
    So, including reducer and hardener and the gold paint, and the recommended primer and reducer and hardener for the primer, I was out 200 bucks. Now, this is only enough to do about 1/4 of a car. I remembered I need those cones for filtering... so I could feel like the paint guy on Graveyard Cars... and he threw in some stir sticks. I didn't see those on the invoice so maybe the filters and swizzle sticks were free. The guy seemed delighted to make the sale, so maybe I over paid.
    I was going to pick up a quart of brown paint for my 73 Javelin but they didn't have that color in their books at all. So maybe I was lucky to get the gold for the Ford.
    My bed floor just has some surface rust. I really wish I could put a bed liner on it. I would want gold... or some other light color. Certainly not black. They always fade. And they are too hot . I sure want to get a cap for the Ranchero.
    Right now the bed is collecting seeds from the shade tree I parked it under.
     
  12. Monk Daveohue

    Monk Daveohue In Second Gear

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    Southern California
    Right_rear_view.jpg

    The brown on the top of the tailgate is surface rust. The brown in the center is what remains of the wood grain vinyl. I wonder if I can get that off without sanding, such as with a heat gun or chemical. Any leads on trim would be appreciated. I am missing most of the trim around the wood grain, the trim piece that goes below the vinyl top on the other side, and some of the "Squire" fender emblems. One broke when it got caught on my pants an the other fell off.
    Notice the passenger side tail lamp is dull but the driver side is fine.
    I wonder if that is dirt or dust on the inside, or faded plastic on the outside. I'm considering Meguires Plastix plastic polish. It worked on friends Ford Sable headlights and a Ford F 250 dash and a Javelin dash. Before I polished up the lens, I didn't even know the Javelin HAD a clock.
    Also notice the driver side of the tailgate is not even. It is sunken in.
    I hope I can adjust the bolts and bring it even with the other side.
     
  13. Monk Daveohue

    Monk Daveohue In Second Gear

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    Southern California
    There is "true dual exhaust" and it is not rusted. I'm afraid the two mufflers are just glass packs. Long glass packs, at least. I would prefer some long but low restriction chamber mufflers. Like what used to be called "Hemi mufflers" or "Imperial mufflers."
    Ideally, I'd use medium or short glass packs as resonators behind the conventional mufflers just before the exhaust tips. Like on a 440 Magnum Dodge Charger.
    And a cross over pipe is always good.
    The exhaust tips took a dirt bath and the hangers got bent slightly as the car was backed off the end of the tow truck when it was put in that spot.
     
  14. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    13,059
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    Right now, if you want to keep the crap and crud off your rig, a car cover would be a temporary way to go till you find a cap. One of the members here helped me out several years ago, when the city I lived in tried forcing me to get rid of Babe, unless I put a car cover on it.
    Okay, so it's been twenty years since I installed the 351W/C4 in Babe, and as I remember, CSK showed two different part numbers. I figure it would be because the 351W is taller than the other Windsor engines, so it gives better hood clearance. Whether I'm right or wrong, though, I can't tell you. But, I can tell you the flexplates are different between the 302 and 351W. I just verified that on the AutoZone website.
     

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