Discussion in 'General Ranchero Help' started by Dan the ranchero man, Dec 20, 2018.
To be fair that saved you $10 and a few hours of time.
To be fair I have way more than $10 invested in paint.....just sayin .
True to the both of you...but Babe deserves more and better.
On your engine? Maybe, I guess. Shouldn't take more than 0ne can for an engine block.
True ... I use primer too.
Not me. When I built the engine, I took brake cleaner and sprayed down all exterior surfaces, then took a MAPP torch and heated up each outer surface. Burned off all the brake cleaner, oils and other junk, and heated the metal, before I sprayed the Ford Blue engine paint on it.
i am sure Babe will forgive you Handy , No Worries
I guess I will forgive you too (But only this one time!)
OK now the engine and trans are done. I have moved into the engine bay to start the clean up in there. Since the engine is out and it is much easier to get at things have decided to address some brake issues. Does any one know of a place that rebuilds brake boosters? Has anyone ever taken apart the proportioning valve for cleaning? Can't seem to find any rebuild kits for these or rebuilt units. Never been inside the thing and it is 44 years old. Just thought it would be a good idea. any thoughts?
Since I didn't do anything with the booster, I won't say anything about it, but since my original prop valve ended up having corrosion, and I got lucky with the one from that '79 Squire I raised, I simply pulled it partway apart and only had some crunge to clean up. The o-rings we're all pliable that I could get to, so I reassembled it and swapped it in. But, if yours needs o-rings, the last valve I rebuilt, the shop got an o-ring kit from a place that I cannot remember the name of, but I'd be willing to bet Dennis Carpenter, Mustangs Unlimited or others would have some kind of specific o-ring kit, or know where to get one. Alternately, you could buy an o-ring assortment and size them yourself. I'd have to look in my books to see if I can find a disassembly procedure.
When I converted my '67 F250 to front discs, I bought a new brass proportioning valve. I figured that the brakes were one item I didn't want to skimp on, so it's the newest, shiniest thing in the engine compartment. You can get the valves just about anywhere.
The proportioning/combination valve has some sealing O-rings on the pressure differential valve, but since the rear outlet's seat is pressed into the prop valve it becomes a VERY troublesome affair to remove/replace the differential valve. I have never seen a prop valve rebuild kit, although I have taken a couple apart, which led to a complete replacement after seeing the internal components condition. As mentioned above, a brand new prop valve is a good-slash that-a great alternative. National Parts Depot may be an option for purchasing them. You can see the rear outlet seat here and how it blocks the removal of the differential valve. I have mostly seen the Kelsey-Hayes prop valve used on our intermediates.
Here are the proportioning valve port configurations from a '75 Ford shop manual, covers a few models.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the information. (I have the Wagner-electric style)
''Electric style?" I think that's just the brake warning switch....
Homework Andy. Wagner Electric Corp. has been around a long time. They started out building small electric motors then branched out in many directions. they built large electric motors and transformers along with assorted valves. They got into the automotive supplier part by first doing light bulbs then various brake parts. In the 60's they merged the automoyive side with Studebaker, still make STP products and Onan generators. That whole valve , not just the warning switch, is from Wagner.
I should have said "Wagner electric company" Sorry for the confusion.
Ah, but then again, I couldn't tell you if a Wagner-made valve was in our cars. I learned something new today. Usually it's Bendix, Moraine, or Kelsey-Hayes for brake valving.
This the one I have and looks like the one called "Wagner electric"
If you remove the proportioning valve, by removing the nut located at the bottom of the valve, it will most likely tell you the condition of the prop valve's internals(debris/corrosion). If you find that you need or want to go with an aftermarket PV, if needed, these folks sell quality parts like adapters and make custom stainless brake hose and are extremely reasonable in their prices. FWIW, I use their parts on my ride and haven't had an issue. http://www.techna-fit.com/
Update: Took the nut off the bottom of the valve and other than the thing having some black sludge floating in there the over all condition was very good. Took it apart and even the seals looked fine. so I cleaned everything up and put it back together (money saved). Bought new calipers and a master cylinder. Will be sending the brake booster out for rebuild as soon as my buddy gets me the information on the guy he used. So still moving forward hope to be getting at the engine bay soon. Take care Dan
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