78 GT 400

Discussion in 'General Ranchero Help' started by lovejoy, Jan 2, 2021.

  1. lovejoy

    lovejoy In Second Gear

    Messages:
    39
    Good morning gentlemen !
    I have been investigating my 1978 Ranchero GT,
    It is a 400, with C6 box & 2.5:1 nine inch axle.
    I just ascertained the DSO code is 72,
    which tells me that is San Jose.
    The Ranchero came from Modesto, CA, and was shipped to England last year.
    It does look very original, but, I see most of the underhood wires have been marked with masking tape with written i.d as to where or what they connect to, which makes me think the engine has been out at some stage ??
    The reason i am asking is that BOTH rocker covers are chrome, as is the oil filler cap, they should be blue??
    I attach a photo showing this, hopefully!
    Does anyone have any idea what these would have come from, as it is a 351M/400 tall block.
    Thanks again for your help explaining this,
    cheers from a freezing cold Uk, but she still starts and runs on the button
     

    Attached Files:

  2. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    11,351
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    Cheers and a Happy New Year to you also, from South Texas! I looked at the photo and for the most part, it appears to be very original, but a few observations:
    1) yes, the valve covers are not original factory but aftermarket, along with the cap. On the factory cap, it would have a grommet in the center for the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve; without more photos, I can't tell you if it is equipped with one or not.
    2) the air cleaner appears to be original, but the lid is painted when it should be natural aluminum ('aluminium!') finish.
    3) beware, this brake system had a brake controller tied directly into the hydraulic line, a fairly common practice in the 1970s. If you do not have a desire to tow any trailer, simply remove that block, reattach the line, and bleed the line there at that coupling to restore brake function.
     
  3. lovejoy

    lovejoy In Second Gear

    Messages:
    39
    Thanks for instant response handy andy, and a Happy New Year to y'all as well, if that is possible ...
    your three points are noted, well done in spotting that extra brake pipe connection, I asked earlier what the strange under dash device finger grip mechanism was for, I am not planning towing anything right now, and the electrical connector by the tow hook is nothing like the huge ones we use over here, so no way I could hook up trailer lights anyway, but there IS a spare Uhaul cable adaptor that came with the vehicle!
    I guess the California owner had a Uhaul trailer at some stage?
    I was surpised you say airfilter lid is wrong color?
    Is it not the correct blue, or off a different Ford?

    I have removed the AIR pump belt, and plan to remove that device poking up from the inlet manifold next to distributor, but will need to get a blanking plate first, from somewhere?
    The cats have gone, they are out hunting mice now, I have a stainless system installed up to the original manifolds, 57mm diameter, it sounds very nice, but not too loud, two mufflers ahead of the rear axle. I think a few more horses have joined the corral !
     
  4. 72GTVA

    72GTVA Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    9,862
    Location:
    Chesapeake, VA
    Suspect the air cleaner lid (top) was painted by a prior owner to cover discoloration or a bit of surface rust - in 1977 Ford transitioned to galvanized from the prior painted air cleaner assemblies, largely to reduce the cost during manufacture of painting (cost of galvanized steel for fabrication was less than the process of stamping, cleaning, painting, etc.). Often the galvanized metal would develop some surface rust or "unsightly" (in the eye of the beholder) discoloration. The lid appears correct. You could likely use some paint stripper and a scrubbing pad to remove the paint, and likely reveal why they decided to paint it. If you want it to look as original you could strip the paint, scrub it down with an abrasive pad such as a scotch brite pad and then use a satin clear coat to inhibit discoloration and corrosion. Or, perhaps, get a can of cold galvanizing spray to recoat it to stabilize the surface once stripped).

    The air pump inlet into the intake manifold I filled with an SAE pipe plug (I think it was 3/4" but don't hold me to that, been too long). I used a brass pipe plug and then repainted the entire intake manifold Ford blue during an overhaul. Never had an issue.
     
  5. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    11,351
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    Yes, I agree, I believe it is a 3/4" pipe plug.
     

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