Found the problem with the new 90 deg fitting for the condenser outlet on the lower right side of the condenser. The abutment shoulder for the o-ring sets too deeply inside the 90 deg fitting. Hence the threads bottom out in the brass nut on the condenser before the o-ring gets seated. I could try grinding off the end of the 90 deg fitting BUT I would likely need to chase the threads when finished and I have no idea what thread that is. Plus there could be a problem with the brass nut running into the nut on the 90 deg elbow before the o-ring seats. I have e-mailed Cold Hose to see what they say about this. What I could use is the original Ford 90 deg fitting. Alas mine was badly corroded and I doubt that Cold Hose saved it when remaking the hoses.
Took the hose completely out today so I could see better what is going on with this joint. I now think the fitting is probably ok. I hate it but will just have to fill the system with a dye charge to find this leak.
Ok, found the leak. Ran two cans, separately, of dye charge in the A/C system. This pressurizes the A/C system to about 50 psi initially. Looked and looked with the UV light source for the leak and found nothing. Then by chance I heard it - leaking out of the compressor front seal. So I started up the engine and ran the compressor a few minutes. This slowed the leak but did not stop it. No wonder my initial charge of refrigerant all bled down in a few days. I suppose this is another bad result from this Ranchero setting dismantled with the rebuilt engine out for a couple of years - along with killing the tires, the C6 transmission, the gas tank, etc. I don't suppose this compressor seal will heal itself, ha.
I know the Feeling my blue Ranchero is been sitting apart Almost a year...I ain't had the time...to get it done.. fuel tank will need cleaned.. Again..
Found these A/C fittings on ColdHose.com. Allows me to check for compressor front seal leaks while isolated from the Ranchero A/C system. Work too. Spent $14 Ranchero bucks for a new front seal kit to fix up this old compressor. Can't just throw it out!
Finally located the danged leak - where the high pressure liquid line attaches to the condenser outlet. I was going to pressurize the A/C system with compressed air but was short one fitting. So went ahead and used my last can of dye for R-12 systems. This pressurized the A/C system to about 50 psi and the leak down was slow. Got out my UV lamp and checked all the fittings but saw nothing. I'm thinking this method is worthless. However, I heard the leak. Ah ha! Disassemble and reassemble of the that fitting sealed the leak. I do think a standard 5/32" o-ring would be better there than a 1/16" o-ring and will change that out before I load the system with refrigerant.
That is quite a bit of a thickness change in an O-ring, 1/16" to 5/32", that is a 250% increase in O-ring width. That doesn't sound right to me, but carry on.
Not exactly. The front seal had failed in my 18 year old compressor. Hence a new replacement. However, wanting to try it, I spent $14 on a front seal kit and fixed that older compressor - not that running an 18 year old compressor is a great idea. Still I have a backup on the shelf should I ever need it.
This is getting old, very old. Evacuated the A/C system last week. Checked it again this afternoon and the system still showed 20 in. Hg vacuum. Perfect! So began to charge the system with refrigerant. Two cans loaded, A/C on, engine running some 2000 rpm, compressor running and - 50 psi on both the low and high sides! Also the tubing leading into the compressor intake was frosted over. Then I quit - probably until next summer, sigh. So what does this mean? Either no flow through the system as in plugged or the compressor is not sucking down the low side. Most everything has been replaced - compressor, hoses, condenser, and dryer. I did not replace the expansion valve or touch the evaporator. Then I also found no air blowing out of the vents with the selector set to A/C, temp to cold, and the blower running high. Just what I did not need - more Ranchero problems.
Clark, Sorry to hear about the continued issues with your A/C system. I know when I had mine down and restored I placed a vacuum on the system of course, but it needs to draw down to 30in hg and stay there for a while to "boil off" any moisture within the system, but the system should be able to keep this 30 in hg so it would indicate and/or verify no leaks within any of the connected components. Seeing that your system was at only 20 in hg, either indicates a leak or the system wasn't drawn down enough to remove any traces of moisture. Leaving components untouched in an almost 50 year old A/C system is asking for trouble. I would have removed and THOROUGHLY flushed the evaporator, which would also allow you to view the sealing of the evaporator case's interior and I definitely would have replaced the expansion valve. If the dash mounted a/c control switch sent a turn on signal to compressor, you are way ahead of the game as far as the controller is concerned, the blower switch and/or wiring could be the culprits causing the absence of air blowing from the vents. Hope you get it figured out
aquartlow: I too wondered about the 21 in Hg or so of measured vacuum but now understand this. I used to get around 26 in Hg in Alabama but only 21 in Hg in Colorado at 1 mile altitude. Never the 30 in Hg you measure in Florida. Then I realized that a vacuum gauge measures a pressure differential. Since atmospheric pressure is lower at altitude, the vacuum gauge will give a lower vacuum gauge reading for the same system vacuum.
I didn't take your altitude into account, so if close to 5000 ft elevation, your gauge readings "should" be around 25 in hg
clark Expansion valve should be replaced , was this system r12 and now retrofitted to 134A,,, //???????TOO much oil in the system will prevent proper vacunm MOST EVERYTHING REPLACED !!!!!! i suspect you have too much oil in the system& dye 26 oz of freon max ,,. if you are useing the POA by pass thats the real problem ,, / i learned the hard way CLARK .
