A quick question RE: 460 PI engine

Discussion in 'General Automotive Questions' started by handy_andy_cv64, Apr 25, 2017.

  1. aquartlow

    aquartlow In Maximum Overdrive

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    I found the mid-70's 460 engines used the Delco style starter, leave that in the trash and get a PMGR starter for a '92-'96 F250/F350 with 460/E4OD combo. They are a direct bolt in with just a simple wiring change in most cases.
     
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  2. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    We're considering that, for both the Barge and Bear. I have one on Babe, and it's soooo much better than the stock starter. You still use the fender solenoid, but now it triggers the starter's solenoid.
     
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  3. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    So I figured out the deal with the bolts that don't have flanges; they're the VIN 'A' main cap bolts. Apparently, Joe didn't keep them with the main caps, and I have zero idea where the Hell those are....*rolls eyes*
     
  4. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    We're almost ready to slap the first head on, bolts are cleaned, gotta finish cleaning the block.
     
  5. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    *sighs, slumps shoulders* Well, I guess all the bolts I found, that are head bolts, aren't the only head bolts for this block. The outside bolts are longer by a half inch(?) or so. Sonofa...gun.
     
  6. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    And the ones I had found, that didn't have a 'flare' on the heads, those are smaller-diameter.
     
  7. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Found the shorter head bolts. Here's where I embarass myself...they were there all along. When I separated out the bolts, I knew at that time there were two lengths, and I had two full sets. Shows you how much I'm paying attention.
     
  8. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    So...driver's head is installed, bolts oiled and in, torqued to spec. Passenger head...not yet. We just discovered the lower rear bolt is prevented from going in because of the evap case. Phooey. I do not want to lift that freaking boat anchor of a head to slip it in, as even between Joe and I, it put the hurt on my back, and likely his, too.
     
  9. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    I might see if I can rig the cherry picker to lift it, so I can slip the bolt in and put it back down.
     
  10. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    With Joe, we were able to lift and rotate the head on the lower front bolt and dowel, insert the bolt, and rotate it back onto the block properly, then torqued it down. That lower rear bolt was so tricky,it broke my 3/4" wobbly socket. Now I gotta find a Snap-On guy....
    So Saturday, I got the valve train installed, and yesterday morning, Joe and I installed the intake manifold:

    PSX_20200728_002549.jpg

    Starting to look like an engine. I'm dealing with the carb (yes, it's a 4300-D, but it's rebuild it at about $275 or buy a Holley 4160...for about $275), and we have to find all the little parts that go on it. We hope to have it running around the time I get back from Washington State next month.
     
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  11. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    An aside: as y'all know, we popped the 351M from the '76 LTD into the Galaxie so it can be driven around/moved, satisfy the city while we get ready to get it in the garage once the Barge is running and can be tabbed. Well, today we fired it up, topped up the trans, and lo and behold, we were able to drive it around the block! So tonight, we're going to pop the carb, valve covers, dizzy and a few other things onto the PI engine, so we can get it fired up.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2020
  12. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Progress pic:

    PSX_20200910_153537.jpg

    And a request if someone has a spare one of these:

    PSX_20200910_153833.jpg

    Even though we have a second one we'll be putting on the wagon to get it running, when the wagon's original engine is rebuilt and installed, we'll need a period-correct housing for the wagon. We are gonna order a cheapie Dorman if we can't lay our hands on the other housing immediately.
     
  13. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    The carb install's delayed, since we're also having trouble finding the EGR spacer plate.
     
  14. Clark

    Clark In Maximum Overdrive

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    I've seen other mid-70's 460 CID Fords with a hole cut in the evaporator case just to handle that right rear lower head bolt. I gave in and removed the evaporator the one time I pulled the heads off my '75 460.

    Even if you can sneak that pesky head bolt out with the head, there is the question of how to re-torque that head bolt. Hence, I built this tool:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Just have to adjust the torque for the added length of this tool.
     
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  15. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Man, that's slick. Yeah, there's a math formula that you use to set the torque wrench; since I suck at math, I'm thankful I didn't have to use it.
     
  16. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Sooooooo...we didn't get anywhere in the last three months. Today, with two brand-new gaskets, I installed the 4300-D from the wagon (not the PI carb) because of the cost of rebuilding, and have spent the last few hours rooting out all the little pieces, parts and tools for getting things done. I'm going to pre-oil the engine after I snug up the new oil pressure sender. PSince the distributor was removed, and the crank's been rotated, I have to set up the dizzy from #1 at TDC on compression. More to do, more to do. *sigh*
     
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  17. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

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    It always seems like there is something else needed done before a test fire Andy. You're pretty methodical in your madness so I doubt any major glitches will rear up and bite you. You know you are almost ready for the test fire when your mind runs thru the list of have to do items about the third or fourth time and no unchecked boxes appear, but you go thru the list again just because. You'll be tweaking the carb and timing before the oil burns off, it's in your blood to do it right the first time.
     
  18. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Haha, funny you should say this:

    I just took about four giant steps backwards, when I discovered a few things weren't right, like the timing pointer was loose, the alternator was tight, but not the brackets, yadda yadda. So, I'm taking a quick break, then I need to locate a replacement timing cover/pointer bolt, as the bottom one's too long. *sigh* I'm now questioning if it would've been better to pull the short block, throw it on a stand, assemble it there? Hindsight's 20/20!
     
  19. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    So, Joe and I spent a few hours the other night, working on the engine, and after getting the dizzy restabbed and lined up, I reset the point gap with a feeler gauge, and then got the alternator back on, the belts for it and the power steering installed, the thermostat and new housing installed, and I put the snorkel on the air cleaner my friend found for me in Washington State. PSX_20201201_192940.jpg PSX_20201201_193004.jpg
     
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  20. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
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    Also hooked up the throttle cable, but it seems like the carb is somehow binding. Carb guys, this is a 4300D (yeah, I missed out on the Holley spreadbore replacement carb two months ago...being poor sucks), and the link for the accelerator pump rod does not appear to have any hardware to hold both ends to the accelerator pump arm and the throttle quadrant. I'll snap a pic, but *both* 4300Ds appear to have the same problem, no hardware holding that rod on both ends.
     

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