Aargh! and other things from working inside the dash

Discussion in 'General Ranchero Help' started by handy_andy_cv64, Jul 21, 2016.

  1. FordR500GT

    FordR500GT In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    The plastic intake is stupid, thankfully it is a straightforward replacement. Our retired Lincoln with 334k miles has had to have that replaced 3 times. It is now aluminum
     
  2. beerbelly

    beerbelly In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    x2! I think it's idiotic to use plastics on an engine that can produce 400+˚. I blame the Government for the ever-increasing pressure for better fuel mileage, thus making the car manufacturers searching for lighter, yet consumer-affordable alternatives. I got 20 mpg last summer on my trip to the Falcon Nats, and I was ecstatic. I sure as hell wouldn't WALK 20 miles for the cost of a gallon of gas.
     
  3. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    Not sure it's the government this time - think about the cost of a plastic injected mold, take it out - done, or the cost of pouring an aluminum casting, then finish machining. Kind of a no brainer, except the plastic doesn't last as long. Oh, WAIT - now sell MORE of them !! o_O
     
  4. beerbelly

    beerbelly In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Good point Phil- I didn't consider that angle. I hope Edelbrock doesn't get into the plastic intake biz (or have they??)
     
  5. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    I think they make one for a chevy, or used to.
     
  6. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    The weird thing is there are thermosetting plastics that can withstand those temps. But I do think, as was mentioned earlier, that having them go bad on more than rare occasion can make more money, so, cheaper plastic, more units sold. Oh, and the original ones had the plastic coolant crossover, which would split like a radiator tank. After that, most of the crossover was aluminum, but not all of it.
     
  7. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    The ideas on the Modular engines were pretty darned good, such as the rod caps getting fractured off the rod after machining, so caps can't be mixed accidentally, as well as checking them metallurgically. If I had known I was replacing the intake and had it there when I began, I likely would've been done within two hours with just my basic hand tools. Power tools, half that time.
     
  8. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Okay, so I have the rest of the parts on the engine, so I am at the point of putting Babe back together. Now, question: if you had pulled Babe's drivetrain, just to work on the engine, and it was a pain to pull it (I had Steven disconnect the driveline at the pumpkin and wire it to the tailshaft housing of the trans in a vain attempt to keep the fluid in it) because of the driveline; would you, in putting it back together, A) drop the engine in, then pop the trans in place, yadda yadda, or B) put engine and trans back together, suck it up, Buttercup?
     
  9. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    BTW, here's a weird pic of the back of the 'California' 2-barrel intake, so you can see the part number. Bear in mind, this came off a '78 T-bird with Cali emissions:

    IMG_20180509_163354819 (640x360).jpg
     
  10. Jeff B

    Jeff B In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    You already know the answer and that is to do what is best for you, the truck and workspace. If you can stab the whole assembly in where it stands then it's a go. If you need a little time and space to finish it up, break it apart. You have the best possible scenario with the motor/trans out to really get after stuff. Take full advantage of that so you don't have to do it again in a couple of years. Unless you are into that.
     
  11. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Lots of high temp plastics, that is not the problem.
    Getting a plastic to have a similar heat expansion rate as aluminum or steel, and be able to withstand the temps without being brittle is.
     
  12. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Ah, but that is the reason they used the o-ring seals--so that the two materials can expand at different rates. Where the plastic needs to not be brittle is only where it contacts the coolant. Which makes me wonder, is coolant chemically detrimental to the plastics, not the heat? That just popped into my head, rattled around like a BB in a boxcar.
     
  13. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    The parts are bolted together Andy. If one grows faster than the other by very much at all, material has to either bend, compress, or break.
    As an example, the aluminum heads on my 514 grow by 16 thou more than the block and pushrods do, so a 20 thou hot lash yields a 4 thou cold lash.
    The buy who owns the plastic injection company next door to me has spent thousands of hours tweaking materials to get closer and closer to an expansion rate near aluminum.
     
  14. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    New pics today, I'll have them up in a while.
     
  15. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Time to put the engine in. I decided to make the install a 2-part job, as I had difficulty by myself to pull the engine, trans and driveline (don't laugh, it was to keep the trans fluid in so I wouldn't have to pull the pan and store the fluid).


    IMG_20180514_130212727_HDR (640x360).jpg

    The engine is in, it will be secured tomorrow, when I get under to do a couple things.

    IMG_20180514_135423590_HDR (640x360).jpg
     
  16. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Actually, a delay till tomorrow to secure the engine, when my friend Steven and I go to put the trans and driveline back in. But tonight, I decided to mock up the new front header panel, see how it fits:
     

    Attached Files:

  17. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    The first shows the header in place, NBD, held on with a couple nuts on each end and in the center. At the driver's side, the fit is good along the side without any tweaking needed, but the top, it goes down a bit in front of the fender.
    The right side, however, has a big problem, why the last guy slathered on the Bondo. If you look closely, the flanges of the attachment studs, when they are in contact with the fender, stick out and cause that gap. So, I'm not a body man, but what would I do to get the header on that side to go flush? Pound the end of the fender? Bear in mind, the bottom of that side's stud is not there, as the boss is gone. I have a spare, broken from the old one, so I may attempt to somehow graft it on.
    Now, I have the headlight buckets, the bezels and the grille (that was on my car) installed. Apparently, there's some kind of slight size difference between the grilles, as some of the old paint is visible (Like, a 1/8" strip).
    Last, but not least...I need two screws, one of each like these two. The short one is for the H/L bezel, and the long one is for the grille. If anyone needs some header panel hardware, I have a bunch of spares, don't know exactly what, as I have not fully installed the header yet, but if you need a H/L aiming screw or bucket spring, lamp bezel screws, etc., I'll trade you. Just PM me.
     
  18. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    And here's a picture of a weird Ranger pickup:

    IMG_20180515_191352564 (640x360).jpg

    Faux Fighter?
     
  19. Jeff B

    Jeff B In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    Andy, I have a few of these screws if it will help. They measure 1" long, and I am pretty sure they are not stainless as they have a black/oxide finish.
    trim screws.jpg
     
  20. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Hard to say without seeing the whole car, but there are 3 possibilities.
    The fender is set back. You could tell that by comparing the door gaps on both sides.
    The fender is shrunk from previous improper bodywork.
    The header panel is bent.

    Fist and third are straightforward adjustment.
    If the second, you are probably best off replacing the fender.
     

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