Aftermarket Tach installed and then, well...

We installed the Autometer Pro-Shift Lite on the column and set the shift point at 5500 RPM. Previously it had been shifting at 4200RPM.

Well after two runs, smoke started to appear. There was a large radiator fluid leak, I figured I had blown a hose. Rather, the clutch fan decided to engage the radiator....

So now i have to buy a new radiator and adjust things a tad to compensate for fan flex at higher RPM...

Any advice and or "that happened to me one time too".

Reminder, 528ci
Dyno 552HP @5200 RPM

 

Electric fans

 

In general I thought that the faster flex fans rotate the "thinner" they get but increase in diameter. I would submit that something broke loose in the radiator hold down area or the fan ate the fan shroud and fragged the radiator.

Cheers,

Doc

 

Radiator was solid and in place. The stock clutch fan dug into, and punctured the radiator. I bought the radiator from Crites. Not the radiator fault, it was my fault for installing too close to fan.

I’m not interested in getting an electric fan. Too many more things can go wrong there as far as I’m concerned.

 

Which spacer did you use? There are three or four lengths that Ford had. If you measure it, and tell what the base engine is, someone should be able to tell you if the spacer's correct. But, if you have a factory fan, it can be within 1" and not strike it. Just look at any of the inline six installs.

 

With a motor like that there is bound to be a lot of twistin' and flexin' going on when you get frisky with it. Make sure it's all strapped down right when you nail it.

 

Attention to detail is key to install electric fans for long lasting and trouble-free use. Not sure which model fan clutch you are currently using, but a Hayden #2711 is almost 3/8" shorter than a Hayden #2710. Hope this helps.

 

Not saying it didn't happen like you say but "something" moved, especially if you did 2 runs with it. A fan clutch doesn't suddenly "grow" at over 5500 RPM after the 2nd run. Motor mounts? Core support? Pulley come un bolted? Hell, rear axle spring mounts? Bent torsion bars? Could be as you suggest at 552 HP @ 5200 RPM you had frame twist and the fan was mounted too close. FWIW electric fans would probably gain you a few ponies and if you install them as "pushers" in front of the radiator there would be all kinds of room between the motor and the radiator, you could even cut them off for a speed run which would net you a bit less parasitic drag on the alternator = more HP. I'd start by looking around while the parts are on order.

Cheers,

Doc

 

How close was the fan (or clutch) to the radiator? I have had water pumps fail (without leaking!) and the flange moved forward enough to make contact. Something had to have given way - firmly mounted radiator shouldn't move, and the fan, unless it was already too close (within 1/2") also shouldn't move, or flex, enough to permit contact. I think Doc hit it on the head with mounts or core support moving. There's your chore for today - find out what moved. I don't care for electric fans, either.

 

Yep, that about sums it up...

 

I am contemplating an electric fan set up at this point. i had one in my Torino but removed it due to fuses blowing etc.

 

Pushers will not work with my tranny cooler in front. I think the fan was too close and have not pushed this beast this far even though the dyno #'s i posted were from 2017. Running 12.8's at the strip were the result of low RPM shifts starting in "D". The result of this event will be a new radiator possibly an electric fan set up requiring a new alternator pushing 140 amps.
Prior to this screw up on my part, we measured the backspacing of the current wheels at 4.5" and and push it out to 5.5". (72 GT) the 275/60/15s can easily move to to 295's, potentially 305s. Once I get done with that issue i will post a new thread with the info/setup...

 

Not saying electric fans are best for every situation, but I use a Dorman aftermarket dual electric fan assembly for a '95 Ford Windstar on my "small" 472 and along with a Champion 3 core all aluminum radiator and it keeps my Ranchero cool even in central Florida traffic with the A/C on. I use a stock Ford 3G large case 130 amp alternator sourced from a '94 Ford Taurus w/ 3.0, it is clocked correctly for almost a bolt-in type of installation on a 385 series based engine. This 3G puts out 80 amps at idle and over 165 amps at full output(they are underrated) and can accept a Ford 1G alternator's V-belt pulley. Have some application info as well as a few pics of my install if needed. Hope this is helpful.

 

Well if you are POSITIVE that nothing broke loose then rock on. I installed a "Flex-Lite" aluminum fan that came in my Box O' Parts from the PO and there was a 3" aluminum spacer that could have been cut back if I needed the room (Ive got like 5" between the fan and the radiator on my 77 now). I'm doing the 3G 130 AMP alt. / Saginaw PS pump swap now and have hit a wall with looking for a 3 groove crank pulley that is not under driven to go with a 2 groove on the alt. and WP pulley as a single V belt notoriously slips. I'm half thinking I need to go back to the JY and get the pullies off the motor I yanked the PS pump and bracket from and just go serpentine. Of course that means a reverse rotation water pump too.

I'll be really interested to find out what you do with your wheels and tires, mine are 5.5" BS and 275/60-15's are the biggest diameter I can find, the 295/50's are an inch shorter but an inch wider. I also need to reduce the diameter of the fronts to 235/60's as I have a bit of tire rub. Fortunately the tires on the Chero now also fit my Ranger, unfortunately that means I have to swap 8 tires.

Cheers,

Doc

 

Be careful with a 2 groove pulley on a 3G, there isn't a bunch of thread engagement on the pulley shaft nut, I also tried to stick with V-belts. Since the pulleys are steel they can be modified to use multi-rib sheaves. This is what I did to my 460's crank pulley to eliminate alternator belt squeal, removed the original V-belt sheave and install 6 rib sheave to match 3G alternator sheave(pulley).



Allows me to use 6 rib belt on alt, no more alternator belt squeal and still retains V-belts for water pump, Saginaw PS pump and A6 replacement A/C compressor. Hope this helps

 

Todd, your posts always help or at least make me stop and think about options!!! As many times as I have read your 3g swap I swore you had two "V" belts on the Alt. Now I'm wondering is due to the bracket that I pulled off the van if I will be able to do two 6V belts as I don't have AC. I know the AC lines up with the Saginaw so conceptually I can just add a bigger belt when I get AC. I found one company that makes a dual 6V crank pulley ............. now I gotta think about this, take measurements and stuff Do you have part numbers for what you welded on and what you welded it on to?

Cheers,

Doc

 

I have 5" backspace on my 72,inside of 16" rim is close to upper link mount on rear axle housing.Maybe go with reversed dished 9.5 wheel 3.5
backspace.They will fit.Frame X-brace will help with frame twist.Look at your frame,may have provisions for bolt on upgrade.

 

Doc,
PM sent.

 

What size is your radiator? I'm not a fan of the 3 core, but interested in your size.
I'll check out the Dorman fan too, what is the model number of the fan?
What is the part number for the alternator and what wiring changes need to be made to the original wiring harness for the connections?
When you have time could you please post some pics of your radiator setup and alternator? That would be helpful and it appears you are happy with your setup.