Alternator conversion

Discussion in 'Ranchero Tech Help' started by cbolt, Dec 28, 2017.

  1. cbolt

    cbolt In Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    I am looking to replace my externally regulated alternator with an internally regulated one, if that is even possible. A search of the site yielded a thread on upgrading to a 3G alternator, but I couldn't find anything referencing an upgrade to an internal regulator. That brings me to this question; Is it possible to simply upgrade to an internally regulated alternator on a Ford, or do I need to convert the entire setup to the 3G alternator? How about a one-wire alternator? Anyone running a one-wire setup and if so how difficult was the swap?

    Long time GM guy with a knowledge base for GM products and upgrades. The Ford stuff is different so I want to be sure I am going the correct route with the alternator upgrade before jumping in.

    Based on the thread I just read the 3G conversion looks pretty straight forward, but time is a factor for this project.
     
  2. 5.0 Chero

    5.0 Chero Bahumbug Staff Member

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    3g is internally regulated
     
  3. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    And for what it's worth, I had my alternator converted to an external regulator, one wire, but also came with a connection for the idiot light - direct plug in.
     
  4. cbolt

    cbolt In Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    I know 3G is internally regulated. I was looking for something that would plug into my existing harness with a shorting plug for the external regulator ala GM wiring/conversion. Hey, that's what im familiar with.
     
  5. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    If you ditch the regulator you will have to do wiring alterations.
    not a big deal unless you have a factory electric choke.
     
  6. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    If he does, he can do what I did--buy (actually, my friend gave it to me) an Edelbrock 12 volt choke kit and install it. But John is right, doing a swap to a 3G will require a rewiring to make it correctly work. Guys over on Fullsizbronco.com have bought harnesses or made their own, and the mods do work for our cars with the 1G alternator.
     
  7. LSChero

    LSChero In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

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    If your going used 3G,snag a section of harness from donor.Lugs and breaker cost more than used parts.Simple install,but you will have to change to volt meter
    if amp gauge in your cruck now.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. rancheromac

    rancheromac In Third Gear

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  9. rancheromac

    rancheromac In Third Gear

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    I converted to 3g, on 79 chero do I have to disconnect my in dash factory gage and switch to a volt gage ? I was planning on doing anyway, but is my in dash gage an amp or volt setup ? also I have a edelbrach electric choke, do I need to make any change ?.also will my factory tach hookup need to change how it is wired ? a lot of questions, but I have been a member since 09 and I respect all info I get from this site. thanks to all !
     
  10. aquartlow

    aquartlow In Maximum Overdrive

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    I did the 3G "upgrade" few years back. I sent my ammeter to RCC innovations to change it over to a volt meter, he uses the same font as our factory gauge, looks original
    [​IMG]

    I did this due to the ammeter shunt only having roughly a 10ga wire, fine for a 55amp 1G not so much for 130amp 3G. I removed all the voltage regulator wiring on the inner fender except for the Light Green/Red stripe wire that "energizes" the 3G's VR to charge. No need to mess with the tachometer wiring. Make sure you use at least a 4ga with an ANL fuse(175amp) from the 3G's BAT terminal to the battery side of the starter solenoid, the 3G is rated at 130amps but will usually top out at 165 amps going "full tilt". 4ga will be fine as long as the run is less than 4' , if wanted run 0ga, but not necessary.
    This diagram shows how to wire the 3G, instead of running the "A" terminals Yellow wire all the way back to the starter solenoid, run it directly to the 3G's BAT terminal, allows cleaner install and requires less wire.
    [​IMG]

    A large cased 3G sourced from a '94 Taurus with 3.0(Lester #7765) is almost a direct bolt-in and is clocked correctly for wiring ease(at least on my BBF). Hope this info is helpful. Installing a 3G is one of the best upgrades around for "our" rides.
    The one on left is what you want, it reflects the size and bolt centers of the '94 Taurus 3G, so there was no need to modify the adjustment bracket at all, at least in my case.
    [​IMG]
     
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  11. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    What was the conversion cost on the ammeter to voltmeter? Was the wiring straightforward to install it?
     
  12. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Oh, and protip: DO NOT stick anything through the case to hold the fan when breaking loose the pulley nut. Aside from damaging the case, you can also damage the fan and the windings inside.Instead, use a length of good-condition multi-rib belt to hold the pulley. Put the belt around as tightly as you can, then clamp with a Vise-Grip. Grab the Vise-Grip tool in your right hand while moving the breaker bar or big ratchet CCW. A rattle gun works better, though. When shimming the V-pulley, ensure there is enough of the shaft sticking out so the threads of the nut are fully engaged on it.
     
  13. aquartlow

    aquartlow In Maximum Overdrive

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    Andy,
    The cost was $35 each plus shipping if using my core(I believe it is $40 now), I sent 2 of them in at one time just to have a spare. The wiring is EZ, just unplug the ammeter's right angle press-on terminals and tape them up since I no longer used the shunt type ammeter wiring. The engine side ammeter leads can still be attached to battery side of solenoid instead of cutting them out and/or removing them, I removed the 10ga wiring shunt itself just to tidy up the inner fender wiring(the 10ga can be easily re-installed and since the ammeter leads and/or the fusible link ends of each leads were left intact, re-installing the ammeter would be an easy affair). You can remove the ammeter's wiring completely if wanted, I just chose to leave it there if ever I wanted an ammeter again(probably never). The terminals on the back of the voltmeter are marked for (+) and (-) attachments, I ran the positive to a fuse box terminal that had power in the run position(if you used one of the ammeter leads the voltmeter would stay on at all times), the negative of course goes to ground(I attached mine to the metal bracing of the lower dash since I previously ran a 10ga lead from this bracing to the kick panel area to make sure it has a very good ground). Here's a link to RCC:
    http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all
    Hope this helps.
     
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  14. rancheromac

    rancheromac In Third Gear

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    Great to hear from you, have not seen you post lately. I would have asked you in a pm. You are the one who answered me when I was starting the 3g setup and the electric fan s. thanks so much !
     
  15. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    OK, that sounds good. The project is on the back burner (waaaaaay back), but when I'm ready, I want to be able to 'hop to it,' get it knocked out quickly.
     
  16. rancheromac

    rancheromac In Third Gear

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    this should be in a sticky tech help for others as 3g is the way to go and aquartlow knows his stuff !!
     
    cbolt likes this.
  17. aquartlow

    aquartlow In Maximum Overdrive

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    Always glad to help if possible.
     
  18. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    I think there is one sticky already; any way to attach this thread to it?
     
  19. RAGNAR

    RAGNAR In Second Gear

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    Location:
    California
    I got a 3g from a 95 mustang I have removed the pulleys and it seems like the original pulley from my 1g is just a slight size larger shaft then the 3g. Will I need to buy a v-belt pulley for the 3g? and everything I have read so far states that I should run a dual v-belt pulley on the 3g but I am not sure about changing the belt routing on the next forward belt, as it will change the surface contact area of belt to pulley's. Any idea's would be greatly appreciated
     
  20. aquartlow

    aquartlow In Maximum Overdrive

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    FWIW, I ran a v-belt for a while on my large case 130 amp 3G, but the belt slipped when I had loads over 80 amps and a 3G can put out that amperage just above idle. Ultimately, I took my 460's crank pulley, removed the original alternator sheave and modified it to use a 6 rib pulley sheave from an 80's 302 and now no more belt slip. The 80's 302 sheave was exactly the same O.D. as my factory 460 pulley assembly, made lining everything up/centered very easy.Here is a few pics:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Hope this is helpful.
     
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