working on gauges back side ] should I paint the glove box door silver too or leave it black I am boing to be runing a silver and black MOMO wheel Also working on changing out fuse box to ATO style fuses I modified the fuse box to accept circuit breakers for the headlamps will be adding a second box for lighting and I found a prop rod to hold the one piece front end up and yes I an going to do away with crap headlamp mounting bar and make some adjustable mounts so I can center the headlamp in the holes
Coming on real nice Carl, I think the glove box door would look cool either way, silver would give it a nice consistent look however. How much more work to do before its up and running?
All three ideas would work. Where'd you get the prop rod? Jose's beater Fairmont wagon up the street? A five-fingered discount?
Actually pulled 5 or 6 different ones from a local yard cost was a whopping $0.00 If I remember correctly the one I used is from a Astro van
The prop rod is a great idea. On the Bajas I have seen there is nothing to secure the open front clip and it is left to lean on the bumper or whatever is in it's way.
Still got quite a bit to do to it Trying to stay away from aluminum the gauge pods were painted with Rustolem Hammer tone silver going to try and find the spear that go on it
I really like hammer tone paint for projects. Looking at your wiring I get a feeling between nostalgia and relief that I haven't touched a vw for awhile
Aluminum would be good for the floor pans. You could ditch that steel dash and make a carbon fiber one. Would reduce weight so you could carry more stuff.
Put your signature "Mr. Horsepower"on glove box door.Should be worth at least 10HP!What about air compressor,recovery hooks,and mandatory cup holders?
Actually thought about a big one on each quarter window, no air compressor, with the tube bumpers do not really need recovery hooks and it will have at least 1 cup holder
still working on wiring mostly added a ford wiper delay unit as we get a lot of fog and misty mornings around here,
You really should ditch those crimp splices and go with solder and shrink tube. A lot more reliable, especially if you take it off road where there is a lot more vibration.
If I'm working on a customer's car, they get a crimp splice, as their desire (or demand, if you will) is that they have the car back "yesterday." But, if I'm doing my own work, it depends on amp load as to whether I solder or crimp. I know how to make very tight crimps, but some should not be made if there's constant current flow, such as in the ignition primary circuits or the headlamp feed. Just my two cent's worth.
And darned if we nearly had Dad convinced, way back when, to buy a Thing, only to have his mind changed by Mom....