Batterie reversal ... + for - and - for +. What damages ?

Discussion in 'General Ranchero Help' started by Mick13, Feb 8, 2020.

  1. Mick13

    Mick13 In Second Gear

    Messages:
    45
    Hello

    my battery was praticly at zero, so I take a booster to Hotwire the battery ... Big spark
    The previous owner had put a red wire for negative and a black wire for positive. What a stupid idea
    I've been also stupid not to read + and - on the battery

    So it seems that I've no charge ampermeter doesn't move
    the spark from booster on car battery could be maybe second, not more

    Is there a fuse

    Is the alternator not self regulated ?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is diodes board ?

    [​IMG]

    And not electrical, but what is this thing at rear of the left head ? It seems to be a air vacuum ? (non connected)

    [​IMG]
     
  2. 72GTVA

    72GTVA Administrator Staff Member

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    Check the fusible links, they are the wire ends at the large yellow wire at the starter solenoid switch and the junction block below it (assuming you have the ammeter since you mentioned it). If your fusible links are not burned, then start at the battery and then progress through the wiring checking all the connections that they are clean and tight.

    The item in your last picture is an oil pressure sending unit for instrument cluster oil pressure. It should have a red with white stripe wire connected to it. It appears in your picture that the wire has broken at the sender. There is a wire loom that comes off the firewall near the wiper motor that will have between 4 and 8 wires, and within that bundle you should be able to find the red with white stripe wire.
     
  3. Rods N Restos

    Rods N Restos In Fourth Gear

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    3rd photo is Voltage Regulator
    As rusty as that case is you might want to replace it along with the condenser which is attached to the 1 bolt for regulator
     
  4. 5.0 Chero

    5.0 Chero Bahumbug Staff Member

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    Looks like a 2G conversion to me the wires look to be cut from regulator
     
  5. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Even if the needle on the ampmeter does not move, if the alternator and voltage regulator are in working condition, they should still be charging. You need a digital voltmeter to verify that the voltage at the battery is 13.5-14.5 volts, while the engine is idling. My voltmeter didn't work for many years, till I cleaned the connections at the back of the cluster, as well as all the connections at the 'shunt.' That is the small junction block near the battery and starter solenoid that is used when a car has a dash amp meter
     
  6. 65restomod

    65restomod In Fourth Gear BRONZE MEMBER

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    Doesn't the ammeter wires pass through the meter?
    If it does and the meter is "burned out" will it not charge? by not completing the circuit
     
  7. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

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    No, the amp meter in Fords is a shunt style picking up essentially stray current flow. Most amp meters carry the full current load but Fords do not. The actual charging circuit is there even with a non-functional amp meter.
     
  8. Rods N Restos

    Rods N Restos In Fourth Gear

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    Zoom in on voltage regulator wires, it has butt connectors but I can see the wires after butt connectors.
    Screenshot_20200210-135947_Chrome.jpg
    Also that is the factory 1G Alternator that requires the voltage regulator as I have same one on my 72 Gran Torino Sport and it has the 1G Alt and a Voltage Regulator in front of battery mounted to the radiator support.
    That Voltage regulator is mounted on inner fender but don't know what year Ranchero it is on but most likely it was moved for easier access.

    2G and 3 G have internal voltage regulator but 2G didn't start till 1981-93
    And 3G were 94- up.
    Most convert to 3G but the wiring and alternator are different then that one in photo
     
  9. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

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    Yep, 1-G. Either a 70 or 90 amp externally regulated washtub sized alternator.
     
  10. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Also known as the 'side terminal's alternator; Joe's (Landyacht's) '73 PI has one, but with the 351M we just dropped in, we'll be using its 'rear terminal' alternator, regulator and harness. Anyway, with an ammeter, only the smallest amount of current goes through the meter, otherwise, it certainly would melt down and catch fire, hence the shunt, which allows the vast majority of current to flow through it without damage.
     
  11. Mick13

    Mick13 In Second Gear

    Messages:
    45
    You're right ... Always check what you've seen
    Tach ampmeter doesn't work
    I've put a voltmeter on + and - battery. 13V non ruling engine, 14V4 engine running
    I've to change battery connector, to check or replace ground etc

    I was use to work Bosch charging system on VW, BMW etc no idiot light, no charging. This system seems to work differently
     
  12. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    The theories are all the same, it's the practice that is different. This alternator has a separate voltage regulator, whereas European cars, the regulator is inside the alternator, and until the early 1980s, Ford used an ammeter instead of a voltmeter. Just the way things went till Ford's engineers saw the light, so to speak. All you really need to know is that the 13 volts means your battery charge is high, and that the 14.4 volts means the alternator is healthy and doing its job. The system, when the engine is running and as many accessories are turned on, should be around 13 to 13.5 volts, and with all accessories off, no higher than 14.5 volts, at the battery terminals. The 'shunt' in the underhood wiring allows the charging system to work, even if the ammeter does not. But, I would pull the instrument cluster and verify the electrical connections to the ammeter and tachometer are clean and tight.
     
  13. Mick13

    Mick13 In Second Gear

    Messages:
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    What shunte ? Does it replace the idiot light and can explain that the idiot light isn't working ?
    On BMW bike air heads we've got external regulator and rectifier BUT without the idiot light, this system doesn't produce electricity for battery
     
  14. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Yes, the shunt flows the majority of current to battery, while only allowing a very tiny amount through the ammeter, so it won't overheat and catch fire. I'll see if I have a picture of the shunt and wiring on my computer.
     
  15. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    As for idiot lights, if you have an ammeter on Fords, no idiot light. If you have an idiot light, no ammeter, no shunt.
     
  16. 65restomod

    65restomod In Fourth Gear BRONZE MEMBER

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    Here is a quick Youtube video simplified for a shunt for amp meter.
     

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