Chevy 10 bolt buckled axle shaft flange

Discussion in 'General Automotive Questions' started by Jimbob, Sep 4, 2017.

  1. Jimbob

    Jimbob SITE SUPPORTER- SILVER GOLD MEMBER

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    Hey guys, so....

    On my '97 Chevy C1500 am on the highway at about 75, been noticing a vibration coming from the rear. Tilted the drivers mirror down and in to see the rear wheel, and noticied it is not running true. Pulled over and checked the lug nuts etc, which were okay. Anyway, it seemed as if the rear wheel is buckled.

    Got it home okay and had a good look at the rear end. Axle bearings ok, no noise at all from the axle, but i notice the flange on the drivers side axle shaft is not running true. I can also see what looks like a crack where the flange joins the shaft (see pic below)

    [​IMG]

    Does this look like a crack to anyone? or just where the brake drum has been in contact with the flange? Am obviously worried about it coming off at some point. How are these flanges attached to the shaft? i cant see anything on the rear of the flange that looks amiss, the axle shaft itself apears to be running true into the axle tube bearing, just the flange.

    Here are a couple of vids of it running so you can see how bad it is, drivers side (the worst):


    and


    And for comparison, the passenger side:



    Basically what i wish to know is, how worried to i need to be about this?
     
  2. plumcolr

    plumcolr In Maximum Overdrive

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    If you tap (I said tap, not smash) the axle flange with a steel hammer, it should ring. If it "thunk"s, there's probably a crack. Are you feeling anything in the brake pedal? I'm reasonably sure your 97 has disks.

    At any rate, the axial runout looks way high to me. Spin it with the tire on and see how much the outer edge of the rim wobbles. In general should be less than a sixteenth. Looks like you have almost that much at the axle flange.
     
  3. plumcolr

    plumcolr In Maximum Overdrive

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    Sorry don't know where that came from. I knew 97s were disk/drum, and besides can see the shoes. Brain freeze. Either that or late-onset alzheimer's
     
  4. Basstrix

    Basstrix In Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    The surface you are indicating is not a controlled surface and will not give you a good indication of the concentricity of the axle. The concentricity is controlled by the location of the 5 lugs relative to the centerline of the bearing surface. That is a little more difficult to measure without a known good fixture )which would have the 5 hole pattern and a concentric surface to indicate from. You could check it relative to each lug at a minimal distance from axle flange.

    A "bad axle will typically fail from hitting a curb or some such lateral force. If you indicate on the flange (perpendicular to where you have in pics), you can check runout.

    I am doubtful you have a concentricity issue, but runout may be a problem.

    You can do the same indicator test on the bead of the wheel, to check the wheel.

    If I had to make a $5 bet, I'd put my money on that particuar tire/wheel being out of balance.
     
  5. Basstrix

    Basstrix In Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    ...Man, the OD of those flanges are pretty much dead on....but I can see some axial runout. As for the line...I don't think that's a crack. It's not in a high stress location. Probably where they set the tool on the final facing operation for the axle flange.
     
  6. ribald1

    ribald1 In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

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    That looks more like a bearing or retainer problem.
    Is the axle retained by the bearing? Or a clip inside the housing?
     
  7. 1965 Ranchero 66G

    1965 Ranchero 66G In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Could you possibly have slipped a belt on that tire, or a separation of some sort. If you have it off take it to a tire shop and put it on the balancer.
     
  8. 1965 Ranchero 66G

    1965 Ranchero 66G In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

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    If you could see it in your mirror but after you took the wheel off and everything else feels tight, it would be worth checking.
     
  9. plumcolr

    plumcolr In Maximum Overdrive

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    The chevy 10-bolt has "C-clips".
     
  10. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    With how easy it is to find a used replacement axle shaft, and how easy it is to replace, why not just go ahead and replace it? They're very common, and you can pick and choose which one you take.
     
  11. Jimbob

    Jimbob SITE SUPPORTER- SILVER GOLD MEMBER

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    I will try that, when i get a little time to have a look again, might be nearer the weekend. With the wheel on it does look way worse, like the run out is being magnified due to the size of the wheel. And yes, it is drums! :)

    The axle shaft appears to be stright enough, just the face of the flange where the brake drum sits thta appears to be out of whack, i think as you suggest i will get the wheel balance checked, but i did look to see if any wheel weights had come off, and they all look right and tight.

    I think now the shiny line is where the inner edge of the drum sits tight up against the flange, you can see surface rust over the rest of the flange but not that bit.

    C Clips Ribald, first thing i checked was the bearings, feel right and tight at the axle tube ends, with no noise at all, pinion bearing also feels tight, didnt open it up to check the carrier bearings, but dont have any noise at all coming from the diff. I may open it up to have a look.

    Suspected that also, tire is only 6 months old, tread seems to run straight when the wheel is rotating, movement is accross the whole tire/wheel.

    If i did need to swap out the axle shafts, i think id rather put new ones on, rather than risk used ones.
     
  12. Jimbob

    Jimbob SITE SUPPORTER- SILVER GOLD MEMBER

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    One thing i forgot to mention is that, when turning at slow speed (i.e. parking lot) i get a single clunk coming from (what sounds like) the middle of the truck, just behind the cab. It is worse turning right, but happens when turning left a bit also. But only happens once when i begin to turn, and it doesnt happen when going forward or backwards in a straight line. I maybe suspected a diff issue? but i did notice the weekend, that i have a little slop in the propshaft just ahead of the centre bearing (where the rear half locates inside the front half) you can get it to clunk by grabbing either half and twisting in opposite directions, dunno if this is the same noise or not.
     
  13. ribald1

    ribald1 In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

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    You can check axle retainer wear by measuring the run out. Set the dial indicator on the face with the axle pressed inward. Pull outward on the axle, note the measurement and compare to specs.
     
  14. Jimbob

    Jimbob SITE SUPPORTER- SILVER GOLD MEMBER

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    I just tried this. Dang, rang like a church bell, and loud too!

    So are you telling me that any crack at all in the flange and it would not ring like that? It sounded like the ring travelled right down the axle shaft also toward the diff.


    I think the next thing after checking the wheel balance is to open up the diff. I have ordered a new set of c clips, might just swap them out while I'm in there. Heard too many bad things about them.

     
  15. ribald1

    ribald1 In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

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    If it doesn't ring, there is a crack. If it does, you don't know if it has a crack or not.

    Inspect and measure the portion of the axle the clip goes into while you are at it. If it is worn at an angle or has worn in excessive play, A new clip won't last long.
     
  16. burninbush

    burninbush In Maximum Overdrive

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    Having looked at the thread, it seems to me you are miking the wrong place; should be looking at the surface where the wheel mounts. Try to set up your indicator parallel to the stud(s), just outside of them. Any reading you see will have to be multiplied by 10x or so to be visible at the wheel wobble. Push in (or out) to avoid bearing looseness.

    Are you sure that your wheel wobble isn't due to a bent wheel? If that is shown to be good (swap with another wheel) then changing the axle is probably the simplest fix.

    I went through something similar with a Ford truck wheel, and it turned out to be a faulty tire.
     
    1965 Ranchero 66G likes this.
  17. Jimbob

    Jimbob SITE SUPPORTER- SILVER GOLD MEMBER

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    Thanks for the confirmation, the answer i was hoping i wasnt going to get though. Looking at it again, i dont think there is a crack.

    I tried to measure against the flange face first, but the dial guage mounting arm wont reach. I was using the indicator in the vids, not so much to measure just to show the amount of wobble. I will try it again though after pushing or pulling on the shaft to eliminate bearing movement as you suggest though.

    Im going to get the wheel checked also i think, and get that eliminated or not.
     
  18. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    Try just swapping one out from the front, spin the wheel first and make sure it's not bent, then put it on the rear.
     
  19. Jimbob

    Jimbob SITE SUPPORTER- SILVER GOLD MEMBER

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    Yeah I have a spare set if rims I could have tried one of those.
     

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