If it does need to be bled again I had mentioned in a different thread about self bleeders, they have a one way valve so no need for a second person to do the pump and hold I bought mine at Napa and used them on two previous builds with no problems. Worked on the clutch slave as well.
For the RABS unit, that would be a great idea. You'd just have to have a piece of hose to dangle down into a catch pan.
One catch bottle for the hose, one bleeder at a time starting with the right rear, furthest to closest to the MC.
[hijack]I found out a couple weeks ago, that Paul Reubens' dad was a WW II fighter pilot, and later volunteered to fly in the Israeli Air Force when they were first formed.[/hijack]
. No they don't, just crack it and pump until air is gone then tighten. Pretty cool little invention.
They have a one way valve that, when they work, let fluid out but don't let air in. As long as they are kept covered with rubber caps they work for quite a while. Any dirt in them renders them useless. I never use them as, unless you want a big mess, one hooks up a hose going into a can anyway. As hooking a hose going into a can prevents air from going back into the cylinder the one way valves are, in my opinion, not needed.
As I said, keep dirt out of them and they work for quite a while. They were kind of popular back when I was in High school.
It's a good possibility that they have been improved since your H.S. days wouldn't you think and I do keep them covered
So once you have loosened them a tad to let the fluid out, how do the threads stay sealed? Do you have to put something on the threads like plumbing fitting sealer? Just a wondering.
They come with a thread sealant already applied, go to the parts store and ask to look at one or look them up online, I have not had any bad experiences with them, or just do the two person pump and hold, whatever you are comfortable with.
If the ABS dashboard light is lit, the ABS pump will not function. Wit the K-H system, at least, that puts air in the pump pretty much unbleedable. If you can figure out what's causing the light (probably a wheel sensor or associated wiring) and repair it, the book calls for a scan tool exercise. I had good luck with my Jimmy just driving (slowly) with one side on sand and forcing the abs to function by braking hard then bleeding all 4 wheels. But it's 15 years old. there may be other, multiple issues. You may be able to replace the ABS / combination valve with an older S10 non-ABS combination valve. No ABS but a lot easier to deal with especially if you cannot get a replacement unit (no more are being made and as far as I can find out, no re-mans).
The threads don't make the seal. Those units work like regular bleeders and seal at the tapered base. Like regular bleeders, they leak past the taper to a hole when loosened.