Dashboard Lights Not Bright

Did anybody have the same problem with their dashboard lights not being brightly enough. Or is this how they were back in '69. I pulled out the gauge box and checked lights (which were all working) and cleaned all contacts before screwing them back into the electronic padding. Turning the dim switch all the way up does not make them bright enough to see the gauges at night. Any solutions??

 

You can check out the White Gauge site, http://www.whitegauges.net/

or go onto Ebay, like I did, and look up places that sell LED bulbs and order them directly.

Eric

 

A good source for LEDs set up specifically for automotive use is: http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php

They have a design that eliminates the directional output problem when using standard LEDs in instrument panel applications.

 

A good source for LEDs set up specifically for automotive use is: http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php >dbRoberts

+++++++++++++

Fascinating stuff. Interesting that they have replacements for the common 1156 and 1157 bulbs, and that I could buy a set (6 pieces) for only $72.00. Well, maybe I'll wait for a sale on that one.

I have not had good luck here with ~white LEDs seen in small flashlights -- none I have tried lasted very long. But they were cheap lights, maybe not best quality devices.

 

Inside the cluster there are blue caps over the lamps. Material can cook onto them, and they also darken with age.
Before I changed to modern gagues, I removed the ones in mine making it a LOT brighter. The ones in mine were black on top from the stuff cooked onto them.

 

Anybody want a set of super bright LEDs for a 72-79? I tried them, was super disappointed, and took them back out.

 

I have had very good success with LED's in the dash/instrument panel, front & rear turn signals and running lights. I have also used them for back-up and license plate without any problems. The LED's in my Ranger had been in use for three years without problems, I sold it a 1 1/2 years ago. I have used them in my Ranchero for just over a year with out problems. The LED's I purchased for the dash are multi-directional and disperse the light very evenly throughout the instrument panel. Most of LED's available are very reliable, the simple ones, and do not fail easily. The only inconvenience is the need to install load resistors on flashing circuits, they draw less current and won't cause the flasher to heat the relay circuit and allow the flashing function to work.

Just my two cents worth from someone who has had great success with LED's.

Eric

 

Love my LEDs. Super blisteringly bright. I also removed my "color" caps for a bright white light to go with the white gauge faces. NOTE. The SINGLE point LEDS are next to useless for this application. RADIALLY mounted multi point (at least 4 to 5 point) LEDS are necessary for these replacements to give satisfactory results.

Also note that LEDS give off little or no heat so they also help with slowing down the destruction of the instrument cluster backing and fragile plastics in the area.

 

Thanks all. I've got this issue next in my 75 Ranchero redo.

 

I've been trying to find luminescent gauge overlays for the Ranchero. Anyone had any luck with these? I've seen them for newer Broncos, Thunderbirds, etc, and I've seen them for classic Mustangs.

This is closest I've come:

http://www.superiormustangparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=C9ZZ-10890-GLO

http://www.superiormustangparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D1ZZ-10890-GLO

Did the Mustangs share gauges with Rancheros?

 

If you want to stay with the original, as previously mentioned, probably have low voltage at the panel and or very high resistance somewhere in the path. It is possible that you could measure good voltage at the panel and still have no lights (very high resistance somewhere, thus no current flow, but readable voltage with a meter). This could be in the switch, or in the wire crimps in the connector at the switch or?????. If you have a resistance problem, recommend you run it down using the ohms scale on your meter.

 

The dash lights respond to a rheostat on the headlight switch. This is basically a wire-wound variable resistor. Over time this can become oxidized, creating high resistance. First try just wiping the contacts by running the wiper from stop to stop several times (20 or so). If that doesn't improve your situation, remove the headlight switch and soak the rheostat with contact cleaner. This is available from Radio Shack, and most auto parts stores.

 

As is 66, I have not seen the electronic flasher unit. Do you know where they are available? It might be worth taking out the load resistor and have one less item sitting in the fender heating up the space, not that I have a lot of stuff in the fender heating stuff up. Anyway, I will keep my eye open for them and let you all know how they work.

HR, I have the same style LEDs as you noted. I left the blue caps in-place but slightly modified them. I removed the end from the caps so part of the light protruded through the cap. This way I have a brighter lighter blue tint light that works nicely with the white gauge fronts.

Eric

 

super bright LEDs also have an assortment of flashers, as well as auot parts store.

 

In case you didn't know, polarity matters with super bright LEDs.

I installed my left over LEDs in my VW Rabbit cluster and had no lights whatever. Then it occurred to me! As luck would have it, I randomly installed 3 LED lights and installed all three with the +/- reversed. 'Course Rabbit cluster removal is a 5 minute job unlike a Ranchero. I have no idea what I did when I tried them in my '75 GT cluster several years back!

 

CHECK AND CLEAN YOUR GROUNDS! Eveyone always looks past this simple and free bit of maintenance. These cars are over 30 years old, some over 40! They corode, they leak and they will deteriorate gounds. A good ground is the foundation to a trouble free electical system. There are ground wires all over the place, hidden from view, some behind the dash, some in the engine bay.

Make sure the battery has a good CLEAN ground to the block, the block to the Body, and the frame to the body AND the Block for starters. Then start by looking under and behind the dash,

JUST BECAUSE ITS FIRMLY ATTACHED, DOES NOT MEAN ITS MAKING GOOD CONTACT, IT MUST BE CLEAN!

good luck!

 

I think I've posted this in a few forums. Chevy guys may not have the reliability of our trucks, but one of them did figure out something good. Chrome bumper paint on the white or light blue reflective surfaces of your cluster (but not where it would be visible once installes) makes a BIG difference in dim domestic dash clusters.

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/interior/dashlights.htm

I haven't tried this, and won't, because my cluster is flaking apart badly every time I touch it, but it would be an excellent way to go.