Engine Bay Paint. Need opinions that have worked.

Discussion in 'General Ranchero Help' started by Doc76251, Jul 16, 2020.

  1. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Fourth Gear

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    So I yanked the original motor out of Midnight and have the replacement block at the machine shop. I have a Power Boost break system ready to go in with all the fun that goes along with it. The Chero is sprayed gloss black all over to include all the chrome. The original color was 1977 blue. The hood is off and gloss black on top and carbon covered blue underneath.

    I am thinking of satin black over a "bed liner" type of coating.

    I WANT a 77 T-bird front clip and hood and know where one is in RED but the owner doesn't want to get off it yet.

    So going with what I have at the moment ....

    Do I pull the front clip and fenders?

    I really don't want to take all the metal down to metal.

    What primer do I use?

    What bed liner type texture has worked ?

    What paint has worked?

    Hint's, tips, tricks, work around's?

    I have an air compressor but no paint gun (yet) so I may rattle can it as the end goal is the 77 T-Bird Front End.

    Caveat: I've never painted before and know jack so all help is appreciated.

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
  2. beerbelly

    beerbelly In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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  3. RancheroRandy

    RancheroRandy In Overdrive

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  4. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Well, I've never painted cars myself, but I have painted metal models, and prep work is your friend. The better and cleaner the prep, the better your primer/paint/coating will adhere. I'm sure someone will pop in with helpful prep suggestions, so good luck, and plenty of pics!
     
  5. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Maximum Overdrive

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    I also have no experience with painting... but I painted my engine bay. Used POR-15 from one of my local auto paint dealers. Spendy!!! About $23 a can. But goes on smooth, and looks original. I also used it on my front suspension parts after sand blasting, and before assembly.
     

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  6. stabmasterarson

    stabmasterarson In Third Gear

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    I just put a coat of por-15 in my engine bay two days ago. Looks great! It feels really hard and durable too. I really like the way it soaks right into rust. I'm planning to do my frame and wheel wells next.
     
  7. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Fourth Gear

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    So did you guys do the 3 step process/kit or just paint?
    Did you spray or roller/brush it?

    My engine bay is in pretty good shape as far as it goes but at some point a heater hose blew and the rusty coolant landed everywhere along with the normal road grease and grime of a 40+ y/o car. My FIL has a pressure washer with an adapter for soap and such so I'm thinking that may be the hot ticket to de grease and clean the whole mess at one shot prior to masking off and painting. I KNOW I should be pulling the quarter panels and front clip but I have no place to keep them safe and my ability to work on the car comes in fits and starts.

    Any ideas for cleaning up an aluminum intake manifold? Mine looks like hammered A$$

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
  8. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    A cold tank quick soak, followed by a thorough media blast, or sit down with steel wool and some Armstrong polish.
     
  9. stabmasterarson

    stabmasterarson In Third Gear

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    So I sprayed everything with engine degreaser, hosed it down, let it dry overnight, and por'ed everything. I know I never followed the rules but 3 whole days later and still looks like new! (I realize how dumb that sounds.) I really do believe if the metal is a bit rusty, even a lot rusty the por adheres better. Over some paint it didn't seem to stick over other paint it sticks fine. Over all I like this stuff! On the frame and control arms etc. It really makes the ranchero look mint!
     
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  10. beerbelly

    beerbelly In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    For the intake manifold, Berryman B12 or brake cleaner works well.
     
  11. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Maximum Overdrive

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    Mine was a bare primer coating, after media blasting.

    I just sprayed it on. But yes, a grease free surface most assuredly made a difference.
     
  12. stabmasterarson

    stabmasterarson In Third Gear

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    I brushed mine on over some left over undercoating, old paint, rust and whatever else and I think it looks good. However, I'll be the guy complaining in two years because it's peeling. Even though I never followed the instructions, "this stuff sucks!"
     
  13. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Maximum Overdrive

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    Might want to consider treating your rust, after wire brushing any flaking, with OSPHO. Or similar product. It will convert your Rust Oxide to Rust Phosphate. Totally sand able and paintable. And will alleviate your rust problem.
     
  14. beerbelly

    beerbelly In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Bruce, can OSPHO be used over a painted surface that's starting to show rust, or does the area need to be taken down to metal?
     
  15. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Maximum Overdrive

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    I was always dealing with bare metal... If I remember correctly, the instructions say to wire brush the area to remove flaking before application. But once its applied, you can apply primer, body putty/fiberglass, and paint. The key is that it renders the rust inert.
     
  16. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Fourth Gear

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    I just looked OSPHO up and it sounds like the hot ticket for my engine bay as well as the hood ans hood springs. Do you think a gallon will do the above mentioned parts? Do you put it on with a brush or spray it? The web site makes it look like you can apply it like 409 out of a squirt bottle?

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
  17. 72GTVA

    72GTVA Administrator Staff Member

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    Anyway you can get it on, bucket, brush, spray bottle (ala Windex), chug some and spit (not advisable)...

    Gallon will be plenty - it has the viscosity of about soapy water.

    Note that it will leave a crusty film over the treated areas and you will need to scuff it off before priming/painting. I usually give it a couple of days to "convert" before proceeding on with any finish work. My .02, YMMV.
     
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  18. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Fourth Gear

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    I like your $0.02!!! I'll do a test spot when I get it and see what I have to do with it after a day or so.

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
  19. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Maximum Overdrive

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    Just be aware... cover your concrete. Overspray or dripping will leave white residue. I used an old Windex bottle, but you can also use a coffee container for soaking. Whatever your method, the container will be useless afterward. You want to use in a well ventilated area.
     
  20. stabmasterarson

    stabmasterarson In Third Gear

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    I remember someone telling me they used molasses and water as a rust converter. Apparently the process is called chelating. Probably not as effective as some of the commercial products though.
     

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