Fel-pro

Discussion in 'Ranchero Tech Reference & Articles' started by ribald1, Oct 8, 2017.

  1. ribald1

    ribald1 In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

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    I like Fel-pro gaskets. Sometimes I use others for head gaskets, but otherwise they are my go-to brand.
    As this points out.

    The oil pump in the mouse engine (5.0 HO) that I have in my 69 van started telling me that it had a problem with it's internal pressure bypass. After high RPM runs (70 on the freeway, I have a 3.5 rear end) it would have low oil pressure afterwards. Changing the oil resolved the issue for a couple of weeks.

    Normally I pull an engine when I remove the pan, but taking out the seats and putting the cherry picker through the passenger door, and working it back in as an all day job by itself, so I did it engine in.

    I have had excellent results with their one piece gaskets, so I ordered one with the new oil pump from summit.

    Inside the package were 4 blue plastic things they called 'snap to its'. They threaded into the 2 front and rear bolt holes. They held the gasket in place, and when I put the pan on, they held the pan in place so I could get all the bolts started!

    Those things alone were worth far more than the cost of the gasket.

    Good job Fel-Pro!
     
  2. Mike1969

    Mike1969 In Third Gear

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    I used the same gasket on my 302. I actually did NOT use those blue snap tools because I didn't see them in the package until it was already installed! whoops.

    I was also very impressed with the quality.
     
  3. beerbelly

    beerbelly In Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    ribald, did you use any RTV in the corners? I installed one of these in-car, no RTV, and developed leaks front & rear. I've since removed it and replaced it with the stock 4-piece gasket and no leaks. The 'snap to its' are a cool idea, and I always use Fel Pro gaskets on my engine.
     
  4. ribald1

    ribald1 In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

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    No. I always rework the pan before install. Flattening the bolt holes, checking the face for flat and true, and bumping the corners at the crankshaft humps back to original positions. Takes about 10 minutes. Then I put the gasket on dry.
    The only time I use RTV on a pan gasket is when pulling the timing cover. I use it at the point where the gasket gets cut.
    An advantage of the one piece gasket is that the gasket is solid around the bolt holes. That allows another 5-8 lbs of torque without deforming the gasket.
     
  5. Basstrix

    Basstrix In Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    Nice write up. I, too, am a fel pro fan. I really like the "print-o-seal" head & intake gaskets. It's been quite a while since I've built an engine, so I haven't seen the nifty blue pieces you speak of. I do the same as you to the pan and valve covers. Not to get into a brand war, but covers were generally far worse on chevrolet products, than ford (and pretty much all the others i worked on). I always used a dab of RTV in the corner where main cap meets the block, same area on timing cover, and where the timing cover meets the block (after cutting flush with a razor blade). RTV use was minimal...don't want this stuff squeezing out and ending up inside the engine to one day break loose and cause a problem.
     
  6. 1965 Ranchero 66G

    1965 Ranchero 66G In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Fel-pro is an excellent product, I only use RTV when and where needed, for intake and head and other assorted gaskets I still prefer Copper Coat.
     
    Basstrix likes this.
  7. ribald1

    ribald1 In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

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    I also put a thin film of RTV around the water jacket holes on intake manifold gaskets.
    Like you, only minimal amounts. The only place I run a bead of the stuff is at the front and rear of an intake manifold rather than using a gasket.
     
  8. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    I also use Fel-Pro, when I do my gaskets my way, no comebacks. I've used the Snap-To-Its many times, but found you need to dip the threads in light oil, otherwise, the threaded part can get stuck for whatever hayzoo reason that wants to kick you in the jewels on any given day. otherwise, they work quite well. But in doing car repairs for customers, the customer doesn't want precise, the customer wants fast. So unless someone torqued the crap out of tinware, no tin knocking. You have to go with RTV, and be damned careful with it. I'll be doing the timing cover and intake gaskets, but because of the J.C. Whitney oil pan (plated a pretty chrome *bats eyes*), I may also go ahead and pull the engine in order to do the oil pan and rear main seal, just because.
     

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