Heater questions.

Discussion in 'General Ranchero Help' started by John Roman, Nov 22, 2016.

  1. John Roman

    John Roman In Third Gear

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    OK first you guys have helped me with some of my heater questions and thank you for that. I have heat but now I want to control the heat other than opening the window. In my 70 I have a 3 tubes coming out of the heater core. I believe 2 are going in & 1 is going out. I could not find the right heat control valve that went from the 2 going in and then going to 1, so I made my own by cutting in a tee then into the control valve. After looking in my manual at the vacuum schematic in noticed that there are 2 vacuum lines going to the heat control valve. The the brown vacuum line tees with brown continuing to the control valve and a purple line going into a water valve vacuum switch from there it is green and it also goes to the heat control valve. What does this water valve vacuum switch do? Can I just omit it? If not does anyone know where I can find the right control valve? I have looked. I am including pictures of the 2 different ones I have seen online. Which one is the right one for a 70 with a 302 & with AC(the AC is not in). Thank you for any help. P5100004-sized.jpg P5100004-sized.jpg P5100004-sized.jpg 1970-ford-torino-429-cobra-jet-engine.jpg P5100004-sized.jpg 1970-ford-torino-429-cobra-jet-engine.jpg 20161122_192313~2.jpg P5100004-sized.jpg 1970-ford-torino-429-cobra-jet-engine.jpg 20161122_192313~2.jpg
     
  2. John Roman

    John Roman In Third Gear

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    Sorry about all the pictures
     
  3. Jeff B

    Jeff B In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    John,
    To clarify a few things, the new looking valve in the second picture is the correct valve and yes, they are real hard to find. The vacuum supply is just 1 line. I am not sure what the diagram is for, but it is different than what I know as original for a '70. The older looking valve is not original for a '70 with factory air. I don't think the 70's had a water valve switch.
     
  4. burninbush

    burninbush In Maximum Overdrive

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    Hmmm ... well, I had a '71 with A/C that came just like that (but it was assembled in a junkyard). I have a few drawings that show where the various lines go from a Ford manual. Can't get to them until I finish my holiday vacation, but look for them in the future days. Definitely did have a water switch gizmo attached, but did not have a vacuum reservoir. Most of the vac lines go to the dash selector switch. If you can find a Ford factory manual for '71 it will contain my stuff.
     
  5. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

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    70 had the three water lines on the valve and core. 71 only had two. One in and one out. Vacume lines are identical including that vacume operated switch for the compressor clutch.
     
  6. Jeff B

    Jeff B In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    I wonder if there is any difference between early '70 with the cowl vent hood (like mine) to the later '70 with the solid hood.
     
  7. John Roman

    John Roman In Third Gear

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    Location:
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    This is how I made my own setup, if there is only one vacuum line I am good but I still need to add a vacuum canister. 20161123_064655~2.jpg
     
  8. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    That's really good. Simple to assemble, and has new parts.
     
  9. Huevos

    Huevos In Maximum Overdrive

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  10. John Roman

    John Roman In Third Gear

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    Thank you Huevos, I sent in a request for price.
     
  11. burninbush

    burninbush In Maximum Overdrive

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    @ John ... did you get what you needed from your earlier question? If not I can add some pictures from the '71 manual and a pic showing how to test it all

    @ Hillbilly ... the '71 manual clearly shows a 3-port heater core. Hard to understand how it works, though.
     
  12. Jeff B

    Jeff B In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    For what it is worth, on my '70 the center hose from the 3 way valve goes to the front of the intake and the center hose on the heater core goes to the water pump. Can't say for sure that it is factory correct, but it does work.
     
  13. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    The one outlet does two things: it slows the water down for a more efficient heat exchange and prevent bubbling inside the core after engine shutdown.
     
  14. Jeff B

    Jeff B In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    Here is a couple of pics.
    DSCN1020.JPG
    DSCN1021.JPG
    DSCN1022.JPG
     
  15. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

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    BB, here's the theory for what it's worth. Hot coolant from the intake fitting behind the thermostat flows to the middle nipple on the valve. Notice there are two vacume lines on the valve proper. From what I can see on the valves I have the vacume line on the side of the valve pulls the valve open only enough to let fluid go thru one side of the heater core, the vacume line on the upper part of the valve fully opens the valve allowing fluid to go thru both sides of the heater core. All the coolant exits the core from it's middle hose nipple reguardless of how far the valve is opened. Water pump suction ensures flow thru the system. There may be some early 71's with the three port system but I have yet to run into one. All I can see is the three port system was an attempt to better modulate the heater output but it seems the regular two line setup works just as well. Two lines are cheaper to make and quicker to install at the factory Andy, does that make sense ? As to the manual including the early system, I think that is sorta' like the tire inflation sticker in the glove box listing tire sizes and inflation for Boss 429 engine equipped cars in some of the cars on the production line. Someone finally caught the sticker oops but the book got missed. A later thought about if those heaters made gurgling noises = I wouldn't know as all my rides had noisy big blocks.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2016
  16. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    The 385 engines have a bypass tube so they don't gurgle even if the heater is blocked off. The windsor doesn't, and my van makes radiator noise after shut off, and sometimes when getting in the vehicle unless the heater valve i installed is open.
     
  17. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Interesting. When I replaced the heater core in my '83 CP over a decade ago, it came with an insert for the output line, for the two reasons I already cited. But, the three-line setup is interesting for halving the amount of coolant flow to the core.
     
  18. burninbush

    burninbush In Maximum Overdrive

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    OK, that's as good as any other I've heard. It seems to me there would be mixing inside a 3-port heater core, and there is a vac reservoir so that wouldn't change much in any use [no matter how many pipes delivered it.] Whatever, I have little use for it here so I removed all the heater box stuff back in the day.
     
  19. John Roman

    John Roman In Third Gear

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    I think Hillbilly is right about the valve and one vacuum line on the side open partially & the top opens all the way because the cab the heater control has Defrost & Deice. So in the Deice position there needs to be full flow of water. My question now is what is the switch that is on the side of the Heat Control valve? Does it have a vacuum line coming of it? At this point I am thinking of just yanking out the heater box & replacing it with a vintage air.
     
  20. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Here in CA all one really needs is heat to defog the windshield in the morning.
    Aside from that heat and A/C have no use.
     
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