High Engine Temps

Discussion in 'Ranchero Tech Help' started by colnago, Apr 14, 2019.

  1. colnago

    colnago In Overdrive

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    Remember a few months ago, when I was having issues with my heater core? It ended up being a clogged return port to the water pump. So, now that things are warming up, so is the engine. I took her out for a ~10 mile drive. When I stopped, I heard the cooling system gurgling.

    When I was dealing with the heater, I took off the neck that attaches to the intake manifold (I wanted to check the thermostat). The rubber O-ring was pretty crusty. Could I have broken the seal, and now the cooling system isn't a closed system any more? I did not see any coolant around the neck. I've already replaced the radiator cap.

    Flush the system? New radiator? Replace the O-ring? Other?

    This is a '64 with a 289, by the way. And I haven't boiled over yet, but this needs fixing before I can take her out of town.

    Joseph
     
  2. beerbelly

    beerbelly In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    When I replaced the water neck & thermostat on my 289, I don't recall any rubber O-ring, just a paper gasket under the neck (I'm old though, so there's that). Do you have an aftermarket neck that is different than a stock Ford part?
     
  3. colnago

    colnago In Overdrive

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    Location:
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    Hmmm, I don't know. I think the current neck is aftermarket, but I didn't think it differed from stock. It's kind of an O-ring shaped like a fat-bottomed "8." The narrow "top" goes around the thermostat bypass tube, and the fat "bottom" goes around the thermostat.

    Fat-bottomed girls will be coming your way.
    On your mark ...
    Get set ...
    Go!

    I'll have to do some research. I just thought that I might have introduced a pressure leak, so the system might not be pressurized any more, allowing the system to overheat.

    Joseph
     
  4. colnago

    colnago In Overdrive

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    I saw a bunch of necks on eBay. Apparently, the original just had the flat gasket, and the aftermarket have my fat-bottomed girl -- dang it, I mean, the figure-8. Not sure which is the better design.

    Joseph
     
  5. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    That won't cause any problems if it cross-leaks. Better start looking elsewhere.
     
  6. Carl Steinbarger

    Carl Steinbarger In Second Gear

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    In my opinion, the stock housing works best.. "O" ring housings always leaked for me...
     
  7. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    When you were diagnosing the heater core, you did verify the water pump was actually moving water, correct? And you've statically verified the thermostat opens, correct? Then you should be looking at the radiator, rad cap, and if you still have points, the dwell on your ignition. As points wear, it changes timing by retarding it. This can contribute to overheating, especially in stop & go traffic.
     
  8. colnago

    colnago In Overdrive

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    Location:
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    Water pump pumping? Not directly. It was more of a "Hey, this port was clogged, and now I have heat, so it must all work now!" What is the proper way of checking flow? Can I just remove the radiator cap, and look for movement?

    Static check on thermostat? Yes, before the install. I also checked the old thermostat at the same time, and both agreed with each other. The radiator cap is new. That was actually my first thought, when I saw the gauge climb a few weeks ago. As for the ignition, the PO put in a Pertronix unit.

    I also noticed that the coolant level in my overflow tank is low, so I must have a leak somewhere. No white smoke in the exhaust, although I'll check the oil and radiator fluid tonight for cross-contamination.

    I'm not arguing one way or another about the better design, but why does Ford just use a gasket on the neck, and the aftermarket use the figure-8 O-ring? Just a marketing ploy?

    Joseph
     
  9. colnago

    colnago In Overdrive

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    I just checked oil and radiator. No moisture/condensation in the oil, and no oil in the radiator fluid. I didn't expect any, but it is still a relief. In fact, I was pleasantly surprised to see how clean the oil is (it's been six months, so she's due a change). Next step, check the hoses to see if I can find the leak.

    Joseph
     
  10. kaytbugsdad

    kaytbugsdad In Second Gear

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    The way I checked my water pump for flow was to check the lower hose while revving the engine and see if the hose was trying to collapse...… There should be a spring in that hose to eliminate that, but you should be able to feel water flowing strongly through it, just a thought.....
     
  11. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    What he said. Good on the PO for the Pertronix.
     
  12. colnago

    colnago In Overdrive

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    Well, no leaks around the hoses when I got home. Temp gauge was about half-way after a seven-mile drive. I have one of those IR temp guns, so I'll try to check out the radiator when I get to work tomorrow, and see if I can detect any blockages or dead zones.

    Joseph
     
  13. cbolt

    cbolt In Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Maybe a dumb question, but after you did your maintenance did you burp the system to remove any trapped air?
     
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  14. colnago

    colnago In Overdrive

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    Early on, I did. When I bought it, I found that the PO had just used water in the cooling system, so I drained it and replaced it with the 50/50 premise. Since then, I've not drained the system all the way.

    By the way, I don't mind dumb questions, because whatever the cause, it's going to be a dumb answer!

    Joseph
     
  15. plumcolr

    plumcolr In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Perhaps the water went into the previously non-functional heater core. Possible I suppose a head gasket leak; a plug check should show that.
     
  16. 1965 Ranchero 66G

    1965 Ranchero 66G In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Did you ever think that since the heater core was plugged with crap that the radiator might have collected some of it ? How old is the radiator, does it have a shroud. Might want to get an aluminum radiator with electric fan and ditch the old fan and pick up some power and MPG. My old 65 Chero and mustang were terrible for overheating.
     
  17. Carl Steinbarger

    Carl Steinbarger In Second Gear

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    We don't need no stinkin' electric fan...
     
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  18. colnago

    colnago In Overdrive

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    Yes, I did figure that the gunk that plugged my heater had to go "somewhere." I don't know the age of the radiator itself, but it is the original design. It does not have a shroud. I have thought about an aluminum radiator, but not necessarily an electric fan. On a side note, any idea what kind of MPG improvement?

    I did order some new hoses (both upper and lower). I'm thinking about getting a new water pump (under $40 at AutoZone). Last night, I looked at aluminum radiators on eBay (around $100, shipped).

    Has anyone used one of those chemical flush products? I watched some guys using them on YouTube. Good? Bad? Waste of time and money?

    Basically, I'm looking into everything. I expect it's a blockage, and since I already had to deal with a blockage at my water pump, I would expect it to be in that area.

    Joseph
     
  19. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    If you need to flush, but you're replacing the pump and radiator, go ahead and use it first, then water-flush the block heavily after removing them.
     
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  20. 1965 Ranchero 66G

    1965 Ranchero 66G In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Check out auto city classics.com .for my 65 it was 179.00 for radiator, fan, shroud, $50.00 if you want polished aluminum. Autocityclassic.com
     
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