I read an article recently where some companies were converting these dinosaurs to be electric vehicles. Classic on the outside, new tech on the inside! Pretty cool (although I must admit that I prefer my dinosaur to be as pure-blooded as she can be). My area hits 120* in August, so if her dinosaur system can't keep up, then I may swap to electric fans (I did check out autoclassic.com, so that may be my direction). To me, it's more important to keep her on the road than it is to keep her pure. Joseph
Pooh! I just realized that I'm still running with a generator. If I move to electric fans, I probably need to convert this to an alternator. I was planning this anyway, but first things first! Joseph
If you do, make it a 3G unit (minimum 95 amp output), even though it won't be original. Fans draw a great deal of juice, so you need a good-sized battery and that alternator. I'd look at better airflow through the core support to the radiator, a fan shroud of the correct diameter and depth, and ensure the fan belt is large enough to not slip in the 120* heat, rather than the update, if you want it to be stock-appearing.
I had the same issue after I rebuilt my 351W. Would run hot and over heat. I discovered that the 4 blade fan was not moving enough air. I went to a five blade flex fan and the temp never exceeds 190, even during the summer.
A good solution. Install a `dimple tube` core. Not cheap, but they work........I`ve used them in 2 different vehicles. First one in a 32` motorhome. Chased an overheat problem all one summer {started with clean/flush on OEM} cooling fans, mister system, secondary trans cooler.........on and on. Eventually replaced the factory 4 row radiator with a 3 row dimple tube. Currently have one in my`65 Chevelle. Temps here in central CA.are hot. Not as hot as yours, but running temps @ 180`{180 thermostat}. These cores are very common in diesel rigs. Google is your friend.
I checked the radiator hoses last night, after I got home. The temp needle was mid-gauge again, after my seven-mile commute. With the engine idling, both top and bottom hoses were firm. Neither seemed to flex when I goosed the throttle. I figured I'd flush the system out this weekend, and replace the hoses just 'cuz. It also looks relatively easy to replace the water pump (which means I don't have to pull the entire front end apart to get to it … just most of it!), but that will probably have to wait until next weekend, so I can run the flush through the system for a few miles. Joseph
No, you only want to run the flush that day, right before you rinse it out. Otherwise, you run the risk of the gunk settling out and hardening in the worst places. Run the coolant flush, flush the system, drain it as best you can, then swap the pump, and finish up.
Well, I thought I had figured it out. Seems the dick-head who installed the thermostat last time had put it in backwards. The poor thing couldn't open! Then I realized that dick-head was me! Oops! Serves me right! But since I already had everything, I flushed the system anyway. Took out the 'stat, dumped in the flush and distilled water, then drove around for about 20 miles. Got home, drained a bunch of brown water out, but no chunks or heavy debris. Re-installed the 'stat (the right way this time), filled it all up, and decided to take her out again. By this time, outside temps were around 90*. The needle was about half-way, then it climbed a little more as I hit a hill. Got onto the highway, and took it up to 80MPH. The needle climbed to just below the first mark on the Hot side. Got onto another freeway, and slowed to 65. I expected the needle to drop some, but it didn't. When I got home, there was no gurgling like before. No obvious leaks, either. It's acting like there's still a blockage, but I don't know where. I picked up a new water pump, so maybe I'll go ahead and install it. Maybe the impeller is bad in the current one. Any ideas? Joseph
Sometime when you get it up to temp shut it down and feel the radiator fins. Should feel hot at top and warm at bottom, if an area isn't the same temp as other area at that level will indicate clogged radiator. It's crude but an easy no cost check.
The saga continued today. I bought a new water pump, but found that it's for a 289/302, not a 260. The PO upsides the engine to a 289, but used the old timing cover and water pump from the 260. I was actually able to buy a new 260 water pump at NAPA. So I swapped that in, hooked everything back up, and went for a drive. Similar results to yesterday. I brought it up to highway speeds, and the needle climbed up the scale. I didn't have a chance to check for hot/cold spots in the radiator. With tomorrow being Easter, it will probably wait until next week. But I'm also wondering if the water pump and/or radiator is just too small for a 289. I'll have to compare water pump flow rates and radiator capacities between the 260 and 289. Joseph
Just out of curiosity... do you have an actual no kidding Ford temperature sender in the engine? Do you really have real indications that it is overheating or is it just the factory temperature "gauge" that is steering you to the conclusions that you are experiencing "overheating"?
Good point, but with the blocked heater core and all of the crap flowing through the system, I'm still leaning towards the radiator.
On my rig the PO had complained that the motor was getting hot occasionally but not terrible, he went so far as to install a Sunpro 3 gauge pod which is nice but spendy (not sure which PO did the install). The other thing last PO did was install one of those thermostat radiator caps with the gauge right in the cap. It tracks with the Sunpro's and now my Speed Hut gauges perfectly, I think I saw them for like ~$30 online somewhere, cheap verification. Cheers, Doc
I don't know for 100% what sending unit I have. You're right that I may have a false read. I hesitate to suggest I'm overheating, since it's not boiling over. If it weren't for the temp gauge, I'd just cruise with no worries. There doesn't seem to be any blockage, although the PO wasn't shy about using gasket sealer. There was some extra goop where the timing cover was butted up to the block, but I was able to trim that out with an X-acto knife. Everything seems to flow fine. I just read an article that said the early Mustang cooling systems were marginal at best. Sounds like I need to boost its performance. I guess the next step is a fan shroud, and go from there. Joseph