Discussion in 'Ranchero Pics' started by andrewok1, Jun 1, 2019.
Fabrication time notch cross-member and box in notch with pipe call me if you want and we can discuss it
Actually I kinda like that long tube headers usually hang down to low
Are the headers ceramic coated? If not (unless you don't care) maybe they can be heated and tweaked a bit to clear. I ran into a similar problem with an ill-fated 351 Ranger project and had an exhaust place do a little heating and bending for clearance.
Seems when I was looking at Modern Drive Line for T-56 swap ideas they had trans braces made out of DOM tube that were pretty svelte. Might be an expensive fix but I would bet they had one to work. Otherwise chop, cut, weld. I'm looking a shorty or "mid" headers for the 351W platform in the 77 - 79 body.
thanks - this will be a problem for the owner, as to what he wants to be done, will let all you guys know. /ANDY
Also when ording parts and this pops up its a very good idea to dig deeper before wasting Ranchero $$$$BUCKS
THIS PART DOESN'T FIT YOUR VEHICLE
1972 Ford Ranchero GT
View parts that fit your vehicle change Vehicle
Well -- "mustang shorty" headers will bolt onto the heads, but who knows if they will clear steering box.
Yes they will clear the steering box but getting a down tube fabbed for the cats will be more of a hassle, fortunately that will be an issue for the exhaust fab guy who is pretty scooby at making bends and cutting wedges.
5.0 mustang shorty headers did not clear the box in my 73 when I swapped it the 5.0
I talked with the bubba's at Patriot and they suggested the "Universal" SBF headers, as they have less down angle than the Mustang ones, obviously they can't make a recommendation because it's an after emissions vehicle (1977) but they were kind enough to give me the exact dims of the headers with angles. Near as I can guestimate the steering box won't be an issue but the T-56 Magnum will require some pipe bending finess. Worst case I will have to cut the flange off the collector and reorient it so the ears are more friendly.
The fit on the steering box is good with these headers just need to get better alignment to cross member
If they aren't coated, heat and a baseball bat inserted into the collector (for leverage) will move it a TON without much effort, just have to heat them in the right places.
If they are coated, as it's been said, chop and weld.
HI YA KARATE . CHOP CHOP
have to find the funny in this situation
It would be SO much easier if it was your own.
I’ve always gone with modifying the cross member in this kind of situation. For me being able to do the work out of the car on the bench rather than under the car is a big bonus. Heating and bending the headers is something I never tried. I don’t know how you could get a torch in there with a rosebud tip and not heat something you really don’t want to get hot. Like the steering box, rag joint, brake lines,wiring. Keep in mind that hot air rises and anything above where you are heating needs to be protected. If I was going to try bending the header I would do it out of the car. I would clamp the exhaust flange to the bench and measure to the floor. The I could heat the tubes where I have good access and visibility and make sure I didn’t buckle or collapsed any tubes. I am looking forward to see you’re solution.
i had this problem. got round it by modifying the cross member. bending the headers would not work for me due to the width of the AODE, as it is i put an insulator around the pipe where it passes the switch
That's an easy fix.
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