My 69 Ram Air 428CJ

Discussion in 'The Stable' started by PonyExpressRider, Jan 14, 2013.

  1. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Overdrive

    Messages:
    597
    Location:
    Sutherlin, OR
    Crossing between the pump and the control unit would be tough, as the connections are different sizes. So I am assuming you are referring to the two short lines between the control unit and the dampening shock. Even crossing those would be interesting. Thank goodness for assembly manuals!
     
  2. Basstrix

    Basstrix In Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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  3. ribald1

    ribald1 In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Reverse those two and it would take some serious upper body strength to parallel park.
     
  4. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Overdrive

    Messages:
    597
    Location:
    Sutherlin, OR
    Added Windshield Chrome
     

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  5. Dyno

    Dyno In Second Gear

    Messages:
    89
    Location:
    Croydon, Pa
    Looking good! Enjoy driving.
    I'm still looking for the right body shop for mine. Maybe now that hunting season is over I'll get time to make some calls.
     
  6. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Overdrive

    Messages:
    597
    Location:
    Sutherlin, OR
    Update...

    1 piece of stainless left... Tailgate Cap, will be done this week

    Power steering lines on hand... might do that tomorrow.

    Waiting for install...
    New brake light switch - no brake lights
    New Dimmer Switch - head lights are stuck on bright, fine with me... but!!!
    "C" Decal

    On Order
    New Fan Clutch... might solve some of the overheating issue
    Choke Tube kit
     
  7. Dyno

    Dyno In Second Gear

    Messages:
    89
    Location:
    Croydon, Pa
    Has to feel good getting this close to completion!
    Have you used C&G ford parts for any of the stuff you need? Catalog lists ford part numbers just have to watch prices like all the others.
     
  8. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Overdrive

    Messages:
    597
    Location:
    Sutherlin, OR
    It is getting close! Its just all the little stuff, and tweaking! I have visited the C&G site looking for parts, can't say I found anything imparticular there. My vendor list is pretty lengthy, but MAC's, CJPony, and NPD are probably my most used mail order. I found that if I take the part number into NAPA they can usually find it. Makes returns easier, and cheaper if needed!
     
  9. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Overdrive

    Messages:
    597
    Location:
    Sutherlin, OR
    going to be a busy weekend...

    Fan Clutch to be installed. Anyone aware of a company that can refurbish the old one?
    Choke Tube Kit to be installed.
    Power Steering to be installed
    Brake Switch to be replaced
    Dimmer Switch to be replaced

    Retune Carb...

    VRROOOOOOOOOOOOM!!!! :cool:

    Finish polishing (stainless) tail gate cap
     
  10. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Overdrive

    Messages:
    597
    Location:
    Sutherlin, OR
    Update... a weekend with some pluses and minus's...

    Pluses...
    Fan Clutch Replaced
    Power Steering installed
    Dimmer switch replaced
    Brake Switch replaced... but didn't fix the problem
    8-Track player cleaned up and tested... it works... :rolleyes:

    Tail Gate cap, needs more work... stainless is such a pain!

    Minus's :(:(:(
    Ordered new water outlet: was putting the thermostat back in, old outlet tube broke in my hand... :mad::mad:
    New Oil dip stick tube ordered... broke the old one trying to get it out of the way for the power steering. :mad::mad:
    New Problem with the Brake lights... there are none... and if the running lights are on, depressing the brake pedal, makes all the lights on the rear of the car go out! :confused::confused:

    Fortunately, all the parts are supposed to be in by next weekend!
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2018
    andrewok1 likes this.
  11. andrewok1

    andrewok1 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER GOLD MEMBER

    Messages:
    2,403
    Location:
    ocala ,florida
    Brake LIGHT , problem sounds like a dirty ground , unless its blowing fuse
    shes a real gem , You will get past the small stuff even though it seem like a large problems
     
  12. Dyno

    Dyno In Second Gear

    Messages:
    89
    Location:
    Croydon, Pa
    Agree with andrewok on the lights. Keep after it you'll find it. Once your driving it will all be worth it.
     
  13. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Overdrive

    Messages:
    597
    Location:
    Sutherlin, OR
    Thanks Dyno! Attempted to make some progress on the electrical issues... another popped up today... Twice while attempting to get the tune of the carb correct, checking the RPM's in drive... stepping on the brake pedal caused the car to stop running... This may require a professional!
     
  14. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Wow. That's a new one. But, unless you have a damaged harness, I doubt it's electrical. It sounds more like a vacuum booster problem. Clamp off the booster vacuum hose and try it again.
     
  15. Dyno

    Dyno In Second Gear

    Messages:
    89
    Location:
    Croydon, Pa
    Bummer. Recommend treating each issue as separate. Would look for wiring rubs/pinches if you had all of that out. Wiring is just focus on one issue at time. Can be $$$ when searching out. Booster usually gives vacuum leak and idle goes way up. Block off hose like suggested quick and easy rule out.
    Double check power in and out of brake switch then what I've done before is wrap some bare wire around metal of bulb and attach to a good ground. Lets you know about ground. Crude but effective!
    Good luck! you can find it.
     
  16. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Overdrive

    Messages:
    597
    Location:
    Sutherlin, OR
    Thanks Dyno... Quickly solved that issue... unplugged the brake light switch.

    But then it started dying when I put it in gear. Going back to ground zero on setting up timing and spark... Dwell reading 21, should be 26 to 32. Wasn't getting any shift when I played with the distrib. So, I am thinking it could be points gap. Plenty of vacuum... was getting 20 inches at idle, no fluctuations.

    Wish I was better at understanding the carb adjustments!
     
  17. PonyExpressRider

    PonyExpressRider In Overdrive

    Messages:
    597
    Location:
    Sutherlin, OR
    And I have the Electrical Manual... so will be going through it step by step!
     
  18. burninbush

    burninbush In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    8,203
    Location:
    near SF
    Solution on the dwell is to set the points to a lesser gap; that trades exactly with the dwell, smaller gap means larger dwell. Rotating the distributor wouldn't affect it.

    But a Duraspark would avoid all points and dwell issues. Dunno if there's one that fits your motor.
     
  19. Dyno

    Dyno In Second Gear

    Messages:
    89
    Location:
    Croydon, Pa
    Nice vacuum reading. I'm lucky to get 13 at idle
    Ah the fun of points! Readjust the gap like suggested. Once dwell is in good range then check timing , I usually add a couple degrees advance ( hot rodders tune) better pickup. Check that advance has no vacuum at idle. Should be ported vacuum, only gets vacuum as throttle opens. Normally port on side of metering block of Holley. This brings more advance in as you drive. If manifold vacuum is used gives full advance at idle, not desirable. Have seen what it does to pistons , valves and bearings to many times.
    Carb not sure adjustments your looking to do. But generics of it. Only adjust choke setting on cold engine choke plate to choke horn about .060 clearance ( thick paperclip). Idle on choke behind choke housing fun to get to on some. Once warmed up set idle in park about 800 ( will drop some when put in gear) . Then either with good tach or vacuum gauge adjust one idle mixture screw at time for highest reading. Reset idle set screw to adjust rpm back to original setting. Then adjust idle mixture screw on other side. Repeat steps and it should stabilize.
    If idle mix screws aren't changing rpm/vacuum idle set screw in to far throttle blades are opened past transfer slots in carb bore.
    Hope this helps you.
     
  20. ribald1

    ribald1 In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

    Messages:
    18,504
    Location:
    California
    Advance your cam, and the vacuum will go right up;).
    X2 on the ported vacuum advance. Running manifold also causes a lean tip in, and that is likely the cause of the piston damage you have seen.
    Theoretically you can tune the carb with the vacuum disconnected to 650 RPM then hook up the manifold vacuum. That is how it was done back when manifold vacuum was used. That gives you a rich idle though, but idle used to run a lot richer to prevent the tip in issues.
    There is a benefit to running a rich idle and using manifold vacuum. The engine will run cooler at idle.
    The Windsor like 15-18 initial timing, but one needs to be careful about total timing. I drop the springs off the mech advance, set total timing, reinstall the springs. That matches the maximum initial timing to the dizzy, and there are a lot of variations in them. That usually yields 12-17 degrees of base timing.
     

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