It is out there (smog) but the mustang guys have driven the price up way up The last set up I found I got $1000 for and it was not compleat.
Check with NPD for the smog system parts - they used to have pretty faithful reproductions of the most, if not all, the components - concours quality. Haven't looked lately but it may be worth the time. There isn't much that was different between the on the engine components of the Mustang versus Fairlane/Torino class cars. Such as the plumbing here: http://www.npdlink.com/store/produc...y_exhaust_air_supply_emission-107493-398.html And here: http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_nut_and_ferrule_set_smog_tube-146228-398.html And here: http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_relief_valve_smog_pump_repro-146230-398.html And here: http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_check_valve_emissions_repro-107425-398.html And here: http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_smog_air_pump_rebuilt-136471-398.html
Interesting facts about the car... From the Marti Report The 1969 Ranchero, of the 386,368 1969 Fairlane-Torinos, 2,385 were Ranchero GT's. Of them, 183 came with 428-4V CJ Ram Air Engines. 101 of those had C-6 Automatic Transmissions. 3 of them were painted Brittany Blue, of which 2 had Blue Vinyl seats, of those, 1 was equipped with Power Ventilation That's car is this car.
Thanks Don... it does look great! compared to the destruction that used to be there. But the repair is there, under the black paint. almost done with the firewall.
Ok, all but done with the dismantling of the interior. remove some rubber from some holes, remove the headliner, and finish removing the wiring harness to the rear of the car. Good news, the fuel line is not plugged up! :thumbup: Was able to push air through easily. Question though... removed the Vents from their mounts, appears to be another ring attached to the body where the bolts for the vents are located. Any ideas on how to remove them, without destroying them?
X2 - leave it as it is mostly like spot welded, the glue is probably a sealant to keep the moisture inducted through the vents from rotting out the surrounding metal. I'd prep, re-seal and paint them with the rest of the work you are doing.
Thanks Guys... the main reason for the question was for consideration of dipping the car. If the ring is a spot weld with sealant, I am good with that, but may need to reconsider the method of cleaning the car... Media vs Dip vs soda ??? Any suggestions? There is a significant amount of surface rust on the rings.
Either method you prefer, you will still need to seal the rings once the prep, whichever you decide to use, is done. The dip is more complete, you do need to be careful to get at anything "hidden" that the dip will expose and be sure to seal all seams and such.
Unless you're building a concours show car, dipping is sort of a waste of money. Even then, it's still a lot of effort.
Media does seem to be the sensible way to go... not building a concourse car. Dipping seems to be more thorough, but have been warned by others that the neutralizer may not get all the acid.... thus holes popping up later, in the paint usually. Why can't this be easy?
Myself, I would soda the paint and media any rusty areas. Taking it down to bare metal adds a lot of extra work and expense. That is, unless there is some crappy previous body work that needs to be undone.
I agree with the soda/media recommendations. Quite frankly if you do that and the bodywork and paint job is done correctly you will probably end up with a much better paint job than it had when it left the factory. Laters, Jeff
Actually, with the exception of the normal dents in the bed and tail gate inner walls, the only body work is a minor dent in the left front fender. But surface rust is just about everywhere. I have also been told that just spraying the areas like between the quarter panels and the inner bed walls, inner doors, and other hidden areas with ozone (or other rust treatment), and sand the external visible areas. Much cheaper I guess. Thanks for the feedback though.
